Just another 8274 rebuild - lots of pics

[Awl_TEQ]

Junkie

Another member beat you to it and PM'd me for the third cover.

Just curious - - how many of you out there would pay like $25.00 for one that was powder coated with a textured black and a gloss red "W"??? This cover fits my older M8274 model and I have no idea if it will fit others. Keep in mind I am in Canada so would likely mail them parcel post. Canada posts website quotes $10.70 to ship ground 6-12 business days to the lower 48. Somewhere in this forum someone said that Warn wanted $37.00 US for their replacement cover.

POST UP IF INTERESTED If I get 10 or 20 requests I'd go ahead and make them. PayPal would be my preference for payment.

 

[Theycallmenica]

you can count me in

 

[Poser]

I am betting there is a reason why Warn decided to make those covers out of a non-conductive material years ago, and continue to do so today....

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Yeah I thought of that too. If you smash something into the cover and crush it into the solenoids you could ground out the system. But a similar thing could happen with plastic. The plastic is much weaker and allows more force to impact the solenoids potentially grounding them out on the bracket they are mounted to. I figure my cover would take a harder hit to deform than just the solenoids - that plastic cover wouldn't stop anything. Also - my bumper protects my winch from anything other than the butt end of a log taken head on which would damage more than just the winch. A cutoff in cab or on the front of the truck was in my plans as well to de-energize the entire winch.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Also - an afterthought - the reason they went plastic likely had more to do with cost than anything else.

 

[LCSODIVER]

I would gladly pay 35-37 for a metal cover. I hate the cheap plastic on a otherwise great winch.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

That's two covers

 

[Awl_TEQ]

My welder and I have been repairing the case during breaks and at lunch for the last couple of days. Slow progress at 15 min intervals. The case is cast aluminum and we are using 4043 rod. The cast is porous and it is difficult to get the filler rod to mix well. The technique is to heat the area being worked on with the TIG until the outgassing and popping subsides and then adding a bit of rod then moving slowly along the desired path. Once the 4043 is laid down you can move faster when adding more filler over the previous pass.

#1 Here is the case before starting the welding - notice the patch job on the left side of the case. There is a quarter sized hole under a 1.5" square piece of 1/4" patch material. I ground off the patch job revealing the hole (no pic). "We" closed the hole by filling it with rod from inside and outside then ground both sides flush.

#2 After dressing the surface of the case we rebuilt the structural ribs (two out of three so far)

#3 Here is the case with the two ribs dressed to look original. The third one will be tougher because it angles toward the finished one - thats why we did the other two first.

 

[photogod]

Man, you guys are artists! Nice job.

 

[flintknapper]

Very nice work. You might consider welding in a "boss" to accept a drain plug while you are at it. As you already know, the case is rather thin and only allows for a few threads. A "boss" or "bung" would help tremendously.

Great job, great thread!

Flint.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Ooooh - good idea. I almost forgot about the drain/ fill plugs.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 Friday my welder friend finished welding cracks and building up missing pieces with new metal. He applies more metal than needed and then I sculpt and shape the finished piece. I had already dressed most of the welded areas at work before this picture was taken.

#2 These are the tools I'm using. The 1/2" wide belt sander does 90% of the work with an 80 grit belt. The 2" angle grinder with a maroon scotchbrite pad does well to put the final polish on. Also, I used a dremel tool with a 1/8" carbide burr to cut the grooves in the top case and the mating surface.

#3 The finished product - save for the drain and fill plugs as per flintknapper's post above.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 This is the case before I started. The welds you see were from the PO had no penetration and were very weak.

#2 Here is the case now.

#3 Welded one on the left and good one on the right.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 I also got the solenoid covers welded and dressed - ready for powder.

#2 The pile of parts nearly ready for powder and plating. I just have to put in the fill and drain plugs.

#3 Also put on a few coats of gloss black on the motor.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Tomorrow/ next day or two
- I will have material added to the cases in the form of a bung for drain and fill plugs.
- I will do a final polish and dress of all powder destined pieces.
- I will send all steel pieces save for the gears to be zinc plated.
- I will pick up my motor and shaft from Warn.
- I will pick up the bearing and seal I had ordered in.


There is light at the end of the tunnel

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Update

I've got the fill and drain plugs drilled and tapped. I'm just prepping for powder with some high temp masking tape I borrowed from the powder coater. I'm going to try and get everything to powder and plating tomorrow.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Also I did pick up all of my parts from the Warn distributer and the bearing supplier.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

For Clutchee

 

[Clutchee]

For Clutchee

Bottom one-BINGO!

 

[wesintl]

Fantastic work repairing the case. Great Thread. Looking forward to PC and assembly.