Just another 8274 rebuild - lots of pics (3 Viewers)

[Awl_TEQ]

Clutch problems

If your clutch is like most it is difficult to engage and disengage. This picture is of the components involved with the clutch. It is really quite simple and you can see how a cleaning and bit of lube would solve any sticky clutch problems.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Parts

I haven't blasted the second one yet - it takes a fair bit of air and I let my air compressor cool down so it takes a while.

So the parts I will need to refurbish these two winches are:

8680 - service kit- lower housing x2 (this is the drum bushings and seals)
8409 - brake service kit x2 (this will give me two sets of balls and the friction material, snap ring and keys)
7612 - lip seal x2 (pinion seal)
7611 - bushing x2 (pinion bushing)
7732 - pinion and cam x1 (this is the shaft that was busted and the cam part of it)
7613 - o-ring seal pinion x2 (seal for above)
8356 - pinion bearing x2 (end bearing for above)
8316 - armature bearing x2
7582 - end cap x1 (plastic end cap for the drum - one of mine was cracked)

I plan to replace all screws and bolts with stainless hardware bought from one of my work suppliers. If I can get the bearings and seals cheaper from a bearing supplier than from Warn I will - I have to get the tiny needle bearings in the upper housing there anyway (torrington y-68 x4).

I plan to perform the modifications that others (read Flintknapper) have done. The case drain and fill plugs, zerk fittings in the drum end. I'm not going to bother with the drill, tap, bolt mod for the brake assembly.

Now, you may have noticed that I did not list a motor to replace the melted one. This is because I am changing from 12V to 24V to suit my 2F to 3B conversion planned for my truck. The 3B in Canada came in 24V and I plan to convert my truck when I do my drive train swap. So I will need two 8803 motors (c/w motor pinion gear) and two 13343 24V solenoid packs. I like the idea of the 24V winches because they will run at half the amperage and therefore half the heat of the 12V. I plan to mount one winch in the obvious place and build a receiver mount for the other one to make it removable for the back of the truck. I know they are heavy but a winch in the back is handy and I will be running synthetic rope so that will help. So with 24V I'll have two batteries for the truck and winch for sure and I may have a couple more for various planned mods.

As for the finish on the parts I am thinking of doing Zinc Dichromate on the steel parts and powder coating the aluminum to match the new M8274-50 units that Warn makes.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Here are a couple of 8274 exploded parts diagrams and parts lists. You probably won't be able to red them. Just search Warn M8274 parts online. It helps to know your serial number to get the right diagrams.

 

[NLXTACY]

Damn, this makes me want to get an 8274 JUST so I can have fun rebuilding it!!!!

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Yeah - it is my kind of fun. But I am just killing time until I can start on my 45 rebuild and engine swap.

I had some family obligations today so didn't do much work on the winches.

#1 - Still blasting the second unit.

#2 - The twin lines of parts are what is being replaced.

#3 - It doesn't matter how much room you have - it's never enough

 

[1shot1kill]

Nice Job!

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Thanks 1shot

Not much time available to get anything done during the week. Did some more blasting but with the kids bedrooms above the garage I can't run the compressor after 7:30-8:00. Tomorrow I get off work at 11:00am so I'm going to pick up some stainless bolts and order all of the parts I need from the Warn distributer. I cut down my list a bit to keep the cost down. I'm going to re-use the bronze bushings because they look fine. All seals, o-rings and bearings will be purchased at a local bearing distributer cause they have better prices. For example the large needle bearing 8356 is $23 at Warn and $8 at Transmission Supply Ltd. I had to go to TSL anyway because Warn doesn't sell the small needle bearing in the upper housing gear set (unless you buy the entire upper case). The original is a Torrington Y-68 open needle bearing and TSL has the same thing from a different manufacturer for $4 each (I need four for two winches).

Also I have enough good parts to rebuild one complete brake assembly so I am only buying one 8409 brake service kit. And of course I have to buy the Pinion shaft and cam due to breakage.

Now the kicker. I had intended to rebuild my FJ45 with a turbo 3B and 5 spd in a 24V charging system - so I priced a 24V winch motor. I knew it would be expensive and was prepared but still amazed at the cost. $568.48 - (for one)

So this started me thinking about the whole 24V vs 12V issue. IMO 24V is better on a strictly mechanical basis both for the winch and starter. I also think it is kinda cool from a tech standpoint. But, it is very much more expensive. The BJ42's came to Canada with the 3B/5spd/24V setup but the BJ60 was 12V. Better winter starting would be a pro and $$$$ would be a con. So I called Ryan at Hilltopcruisers for some input. He is the source of my 45 and is holding (very patiently) a BJ42 ex mine truck with my 3B and H55f (the tub is completely rusted and useless). He has both 24V and 12V components but he says the 24V starters and alternators are getting increasingly difficult to find and possibly discontinued. I would also have to change out my wiper/blower motors and all bulbs etc. etc.

SOOO I changed my mind - - - my truck will be 12V. In retrospect I don't know what I was thinking with the 24V thing.

So I will order one 12 motor as well.

The busted housing as had all of the bird**** welding ground off and will be welded up during spare and stolen time at work next week. I'll try and get tech info (what type of rod etc.) and some pics of progress. And I still have blasting to fill my time at home (yard work, kids and wife as well). I want to disassemble the solenoid packs, blast the mounting brackets and test the solenoids too.

I'll post some on Saturday.

 

[alkarich]

Nice job with the winch, sweet deal too!

 

[romegadave]

I don't have a winch but when I do I will be back to this thread when needed. Thanks for the thorough job/sharing-dave

 

[Awl_TEQ]

{romegadave I don't have a winch but when I do I will be back to this thread when needed. Thanks for the thorough job/sharing-dave}

I like your phrase "job sharing" because I ain't no trained expert - just a handy jack of all trades - master of none type guy. Hopefully everyone keeps in mind this is my way of doing things - YOUR RESULTS MAY VARY

Also - don't forget the links in the first post - thats where I got my inspiration.

Pic #1 - a before shot of the solenoid pack. I am going to make a couple of covers at work to replace the cracked ones - I'll take pics too, you guys ever seen what a CNC punch and brake press can do?

#2 - an after shot of the solenoid pack. The tailgate of my 45 is now the only clear workspace left and it works great - just the right height. I am going to clean the terminals and test each of the eight solenoids, replace any failing ones from Auto Value/NAPA/Bumper to Bumper/Canadian Tire, replace one of the cables from the unit not shown in these shots, replace the solenoid capscrews with stainless, blast and plate the mounting bracket with zinc dichromate. If I have some thicker copper at work I will make bigger bus/jumper bars but for now I will blast the originals.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 before pic of the motor. I can't powder coat the motor housing without fully disassembling it and risking wrecking it. So I will spray bomb it black after blasting it. To blast it I stuffed it with rags and avoided blasting directly inside it. The end cap I covered the bushing to keep the glass bead out.

#2 after. I only had a flat black here at the house so after several coats of flat I will add some gloss black later. I masked off the two terminals and the name plate.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

The following is a common problem in old equipment restoration - snapped off bolts. There a many methods to deal with this but they depend on many factors. Personal preference, available tools, personal abilities, access etc. The bolt has corroded and "welded" itself to the case. A hammer has no results because of the shoulder cast into the case (see pic). In this case I have drilled out the bolt from the snapped off side starting with a center punch and small bit (1/8" to 3/16"). Progressing to a bit the size of the snapped bolt and being careful not to wander into the aluminum case because it is much softer than the bolt and could quickly become ugly. I only had to drill through to the nut to remove the material and slide the nut out.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Soooo - on Friday I picked up most of the seals, bearings, and parts. Not everything was in stock so I ordered in the rest. The next step is to get all parts ready for various coatings. That means fixing the bad case, all the rest is blasted and ready to go. Actually as I think about it - all of the plating bound parts are ready now. So tomorrow I'll get started on the welding and make a couple of solenoid pack covers

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Here is some fun stuff for ya.

This is one of our 26 station CNC punch presses. Picture a three hole punch and how the paper goes into it and the holes are punched. Same concept only computer controlled and we can punch up to a 3.5" dia hole and we have round, square, rectangle, obround and custom shaped tools. 3 of the 26 stations (tools) are auto index which means they rotate so we can cut any angle of a flat shape. we can punch up to 0.250" steel and aluminum and up to 0.104" (12 Ga) stainless.

Basically if you can draw it we can cut it out. More complicated shapes are done on a laser (we farm that out till we get one). I use software in which I draw 3 dimensional sheet metal parts and generate a flat layout that can be punched out on the machine. Then we use CNC brake presses that form it up.

#1 the first pic is of the turret with the door open - you can see the tools.

#2 this is the material that will be my solenoid covers. The machine clamps onto the material, in this case 0.100" thick 5052 aluminum, and moves it into the tools. The turret rotates to put the desired tool under the hydraulic ram. The ram can cycle 1500 hits per minute. The punch can handle a 4' x 10' sheet. The blue color is a protective PVC film for a better finish.

#3 this pic shows my material being punched.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 you can see the parts taking shape

#2 Three Warn solenoid covers in 25 seconds.

#3 You can't see it but the parts are held in the web with 0.012" tabs in the corners. A quick shake will free the parts.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 shows the flat finished part with the Warn 'W' on top.

#2 since I am doing this on my lunch and the brake presses are running jobs I'll use our 8' - 16 Ga hand brake to form up the covers. Basically you just fold up one side at a time.

#3 the next side

 

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 the last side

#2 the finished box (not welded yet of course)

#3 the cover I made is the same size and thickness of the original and is tapered like the original plastic moulded part was. The 'w' will be powder coated red and the cover black. The 'w' will be held in place by two 10-32 studs I will press in (see next post)

 

[Awl_TEQ]

#1 the 'W' with the self clinching PEM stud (PEM is the brand name - they make nuts, studs, standoffs etc that press into place)

#2 the stud in the hole prior to being pressed in.

#3 the finished 'W's'. These studs press in flush and with a quick touch with a random orbital sander will be invisible under the powder coating

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Here is the cover with the 'W' in place. I didn't have the plug with me so I made a 1/4" center hole that i can drill to size and I'll have to drill the plug mounting screws to match the plug.

I made three out of habit. In manufacturing you always make spare or setup pieces so you don't get to the end of a 1000 part run with 999 pieces. Welding on these covers and my case will progress through the week and hopefully be done Friday afternoon. My welder is going to Europe on the 14th of October so it'll have to be done by then.

 

[cruiserjunkie]

wow the things you can do with the right tools and know how. Those are sweet I hate my plastic cover I might be interested in the 3rd one if it turns out you cannt use it