Jowett Performance Filter Housing with Fumoto drain valve

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So how important is it to add these valves before I put the BB skid plates on? I’m assuming I will be able to install the valves with the skid plates on and the only issue will be the mess of the next oil change.
Well, now that you’ve installed your skids, if you haven’t installed the valves yet, do yourself a huge favor and fashion a 360 degree funnel/oil curtain in the round oil pan skid plate hole. The oil drains in a terrible fan pattern. If you don’t install the “curtain”, you’ll be swabbing oil from the top sides of ypur skids:( I just used a little cardboard and it worked perfectly.
 
Well, now that you’ve installed your skids, if you haven’t installed the valves yet, do yourself a huge favor and fashion a 360 degree funnel/oil curtain in the round oil pan skid plate hole. The oil drains in a terrible fan pattern. If you don’t install the “curtain”, you’ll be swabbing oil from the top sides of ypur skids:( I just used a little cardboard and it worked perfectly.
That's just rust prevention..
 
Well, now that you’ve installed your skids, if you haven’t installed the valves yet, do yourself a huge favor and fashion a 360 degree funnel/oil curtain in the round oil pan skid plate hole. The oil drains in a terrible fan pattern. If you don’t install the “curtain”, you’ll be swabbing oil from the top sides of ypur skids:( I just used a little cardboard and it worked perfectly.
Yes, I’ll have to do something. I’m thinking I’ll try using my vacuum pump that I use on the boat then take the plug off and install the valve for the next time.
 
I just ordered two sets! Thanks Brian
 
@bjowett great product. Little confused what I would order for 18' land cruiser. Tired of the yota tech leaving oil on my armor...lol but I get lifetime oil changes from dealership. Could you list what I need to get for full drain to include filter housing. Put me on the list or do I preorder on website? Thanks in advance and apologies if I mentioned in earlier posts.
 
Housings are in stock. To get the full shabang, you will want a housing, pan EZ drain, socket, 2X caps, and 2X nipples. Order here:


@bjowett great product. Little confused what I would order for 18' land cruiser. Tired of the yota tech leaving oil on my armor...lol but I get lifetime oil changes from dealership. Could you list what I need to get for full drain to include filter housing. Put me on the list or do I preorder on website? Thanks in advance and apologies if I mentioned in earlier posts.
 
Housings are in stock. To get the full shabang, you will want a housing, pan EZ drain, socket, 2X caps, and 2X nipples. Order here:


Hot damn...ordered. Thanks.
 
I went ahead and used both..I don't know if I would call that washer a crush washer though. I tightened the nipple to the valve before installation and then hand tightened + 1/8-turn via the nipple. Drove a couple miles and checked...no leaks from that area.
I am in the process of doing my first change and installing the EZ drain valve and the filter housing. Ran out of daylight tonight so am just letting drain overnight and plan to continue tomorrow. I came on here looking for an answer to this same question. I noticed the o-ring on the EZ valve, my stock washer is stuck to the oil pan (same happened on my old 4Runner), and I have a few new Toyota washers. I guess I’ll gonna go ahead and leave the existing washer stuck to the pan (truck is only a year old) and then leave the o-ring on the valve as well. At first it seemed wrong to me to leave the washer on because it might degrade and the whole point is for this valve to stay on forever, but I notice that the Fumoto ones come with a washer that looks a lot like the a Toyota washer.

if anyone has any solid reasons why I should not leave both the washer and o-ring installed, please let me know! But it sounds like it should work fine.
 
No, you should only use the O-ring on the EZ valve. I was told to NOT use a normal gasket in addition.

Also, don't over torque the EZ valve!
 
I just read all 19 pages of this thread, man you guys have been patient. Lucky me, I just fall into this at the right time and place my order!

First oil change in a few months, planning to go to the dealer, thoughts on how they will react to swapping parts into this aftermarket cap? Seems like this would make their life easier going forward if I keep coming back, but might give them an out if they screw something up, then I'm paying for a new engine. Call me paranoid, but two of my four Land Cruisers had engines screwed up by dealer oil changes. Maybe I should just let them put the stock cap and plug back on for now?

I'll resume doing my own oil changes after this first one.
 
I just read all 19 pages of this thread, man you guys have been patient. Lucky me, I just fall into this at the right time and place my order!

First oil change in a few months, planning to go to the dealer, thoughts on how they will react to swapping parts into this aftermarket cap? Seems like this would make their life easier going forward if I keep coming back, but might give them an out if they screw something up, then I'm paying for a new engine. Call me paranoid, but two of my four Land Cruisers had engines screwed up by dealer oil changes. Maybe I should just let them put the stock cap and plug back on for now?

I'll resume doing my own oil changes after this first one.
DIY Scott. Not worth it.

Recommend you change it at 2,500 miles as well. I did and found a significant amount of shavings in the filter.
 

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