Jowett Performance Filter Housing with Fumoto drain valve (1 Viewer)

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DIY Scott. Not worth it.

Recommend you change it at 2,500 miles as well. I did and found a significant amount of shavings in the filter.
I wondered about what happened to that break-in oil change from years ago. I've been designing and building production machinery for mostly automotive, for over 35 years. I know they have gotten incredibly good about cleanliness, preventing stray machining chips and dust from remaining in engines and gearboxes. But I still like the idea of doing the first oil change early.

I guess I'm thinking a real mechanic who works on Toyotas and 5.7 engines regularly, is more likely to notice something amiss under my new truck, than I am. And more likely than my very trusted local mechanic, who works on exotics and classics and occasionally changes oil on Toyotas. Thanks to a local Mudder, I have a name and strategy for getting the most experienced mechanic at the larger dealer in the area, to do this first oil change. If I can get that agreed to, seems like it would be the right thing.
 
Thank you to those that fielded answers!

I am also paranoid about such things. This is why the cap incorporates the stock Toyota filter support and oil bypass assembly that came with your vehicle. I have designed, tested, and myself use, a high performance support and bypass valve. It is even based on a Toyota design and uses some Toyota parts... but I do not offer it for concern of it being blamed for any possible oil issues.



Seems like this would make their life easier going forward if I keep coming back, but might give them an out if they screw something up, then I'm paying for a new engine. Call me paranoid, but two of my four Land Cruisers had engines screwed up by dealer oil changes. Maybe I should just let them put the stock cap and plug back on for now?

I'll resume doing my own oil changes after this first one.
 
I wondered about what happened to that break-in oil change from years ago. I've been designing and building production machinery for mostly automotive, for over 35 years. I know they have gotten incredibly good about cleanliness, preventing stray machining chips and dust from remaining in engines and gearboxes. But I still like the idea of doing the first oil change early.

I guess I'm thinking a real mechanic who works on Toyotas and 5.7 engines regularly, is more likely to notice something amiss under my new truck, than I am. And more likely than my very trusted local mechanic, who works on exotics and classics and occasionally changes oil on Toyotas. Thanks to a local Mudder, I have a name and strategy for getting the most experienced mechanic at the larger dealer in the area, to do this first oil change. If I can get that agreed to, seems like it would be the right thing.
I think you are going to get the same flat rate job even if a master mechanic does it. There's no money in going slow, checking for particles, etc. The tech is always better off if they beat the book, and as much as you love your vehicle, it's just another job for them.

You might be slightly less likely to get stupid things like failure to refill, overtorqued drain bolts, overtorqued filter canisters, forgotten skid plate reinstalls.

In my opinion, the best chance of catching anything is to do it yourself. Go slow, grab a sample for Blackstone, let the drained oil settle out in the container you drained into and look on the bottom of the container for anomalous materials. Cut the filter element and unroll it to inspect it.
 
mine didn't come with instructions, and it took me a bit of searching to find this info.... hope it helps.

1) bend the tabs UP on the stock tube to remove it from plastic housing and push back down once in the jowett. The spring and tube move over, but the disc does not.
2) 18ft/lbs on the housing when going back into the engine. lubricate the new o-ring with a little new oil.
3) 30ft/lbs on the drain plug.

Reposting this in case anyone needs this information like I did.
 
Did my first oil change with the Jowett cap, do you use the little o-ring that comes with the OEM filter somewhere?
nope - the little one is for the plastic drain for the stock oil cap.
 
Shipping of caps without socket begins tomorrow... caps with sockets are planned for next week.

The EZ Drain is an updated Fumoto, same company, better seal design for a pressurized application.

According to a Fumoto rep this is very much not the case:


I'm Matt from Fumoto Engineering, so my opinion is proudly biased :). The Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve is manufactured in Japan, has been in the marketplace for 35+ years with over 10 million valves sold. The EZ Oil Drain Valve is relatively new to the marketplace and is manufactured in China. I'm happy to answer any questions anyone might have; PM me.


I've been using Fumoto for 15+ years on multiple vehicles (including one that is actually 15 years old) and they have been flawless.

EZ Drain makes me little uneasy, even though the o-ring seal may be a better design.
 
EZ Drain now runs out of the old Fumoto location in Redmond Washington. Fumoto moved operations to California. No one will quite say how involved they are, as evidenced by the post above. The EZ is an improved Fumoto, and it is very well made.

Unfortunately, the EZ-Drain is manufactured in China... and that is something I've been internally battling since the beginning. I do not like supporting the CCP and their practices. However, the fact is, the EZ is simply the better valve for the job. There is simply no way the fiber washer of the Fumoto will withstand the sealing duties required here. I don't want anyone on the side road with a leak, or worse.

Perhaps, with the world as it is today, the time has come to revisit supply chains and such.
 
Are gaskets really truly required? I did about 50k worth of oil changes on my 4Runner without a washer at all. Hand tight + quarter turn more with wrench and 0 leaks.

I do now have a pack of the blue OEM washers.
 
Whelp, I just installed the EZ Drain Valve and filter housing on my 200 and on my wife's 2013 V6 Highlander. Perfect fit with no leaks. I didn't receive instructions with the kits but I did some searching on this thread before I did it. I bent up the tabs on the tube to remove it from the (broken) plastic housing. I inserted the tube and spring into the new housing and I didn't bend the tabs back down. It looked like if I did, that the tube could potentially twist in the housing and come loose. The OEM Toyota filter was very tight on the tube. I had to push it down hard to get it to fit over. This is obviously not the fault of the Jowett housing, but a design feature of the filter/tube combo. I also purchased 4 drain caps (2 for wife's car, 2 for the 200) and it all looks good and I don't think valve clearance will be an issue on the Highlander. It does stick down a bit farther than the original bolt, but still not below the factory plastic skid plates. And on the 200, the EZ Valve is well above the skids.

As others have stated, I'm excited to do the next oil change! I've got a length of fuel hose from Napa that I put on the drain nipple so the next oil change should be much cleaner. Thanks for a great product, @bjowett!!
 
Whelp, I just installed the EZ Drain Valve and filter housing on my 200 and on my wife's 2013 V6 Highlander. Perfect fit with no leaks. I didn't receive instructions with the kits but I did some searching on this thread before I did it. I bent up the tabs on the tube to remove it from the (broken) plastic housing. I inserted the tube and spring into the new housing and I didn't bend the tabs back down. It looked like if I did, that the tube could potentially twist in the housing and come loose. The OEM Toyota filter was very tight on the tube. I had to push it down hard to get it to fit over. This is obviously not the fault of the Jowett housing, but a design feature of the filter/tube combo. I also purchased 4 drain caps (2 for wife's car, 2 for the 200) and it all looks good and I don't think valve clearance will be an issue on the Highlander. It does stick down a bit farther than the original bolt, but still not below the factory plastic skid plates. And on the 200, the EZ Valve is well above the skids.

As others have stated, I'm excited to do the next oil change! I've got a length of fuel hose from Napa that I put on the drain nipple so the next oil change should be much cleaner. Thanks for a great product, @bjowett!!
You may want a clear hose to see if oil/fluids are completly drained as they drain slower with the valve.
 
You may want a clear hose to see if oil/fluids are completly drained as they drain slower with the valve.
So, I didn't want to go into crazy unnecessary details in my first post, but I got the EZ Drain Valves/Nipples/Valve Covers before the filter housings. I did an oil change on my wife's Highlander about 3000 miles ago and I put the valve on her car. Yesterday I got the fuel hose, and I specifically didn't want to get the clear one because from what I've read, even as oil drips out, the hose will still be mostly black, so what's the point? Also, the clear hoses tend to break down quicker as they're not made to have oil flow through them. I don't want an unforseen spill sometime down the road. I did lift the black hose out of the old oil pan a few times to make sure it was still draining. It really wasn't that bad at all.
 
So, I didn't want to go into crazy unnecessary details in my first post, but I got the EZ Drain Valves/Nipples/Valve Covers before the filter housings. I did an oil change on my wife's Highlander about 3000 miles ago and I put the valve on her car. Yesterday I got the fuel hose, and I specifically didn't want to get the clear one because from what I've read, even as oil drips out, the hose will still be mostly black, so what's the point? Also, the clear hoses tend to break down quicker as they're not made to have oil flow through them. I don't want an unforseen spill sometime down the road. I did lift the black hose out of the old oil pan a few times to make sure it was still draining. It really wasn't that bad at all.
Certainly more than one way to skin a cat, as long as you're happy with it go for it. The valve is the important part.
 
Yesterday was oil change day. On my 15 LC I have Jowett with ez drain and same valve on the pan. Fresh 6 inch clear hose on the nipple. Thereaf it onto the pan drain and drain right into the 10 qt recycling jug. Repeat for the filter. Easiest and cleanestoil change ever. Then it was time for my wife’s Prius. GAASAA!!! What a nightmare. Filter cap partially hidden so almost impossible to get the tool on. No filter drain so hard to break the filter cap loose. Total pita.
 
Great to hear folks are happy with it. If anyone is not, post up, I want to hear about that, too.

I have long been planning to produce a version that hits a better price point.
 
Great to hear folks are happy with it. If anyone is not, post up, I want to hear about that, too.

I have long been planning to produce a version that hits a better price point.
How bout something for the damn Prius with flats that I can actually get a wrench on
 

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