DasKeyserSoze
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-Put Jowett dust caps on both valves to keep them clean between oil changes
You have that correct.
Am I the only moron that leaves the nipples (pan & filter) connected all the time?
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-Put Jowett dust caps on both valves to keep them clean between oil changes
You have that correct.
No. My wife's 09 has been running this for years w/o anything... no nipple, no dust cover... trying to wear out the ball valve and produce some seepage with zero luck.
@bjowett any updates on availability?
Also, I want to make sure I am understanding this correctly. I need:
-Jowett Cap, EZ valve comes with it
-2.5" socket to install the cap (or order from Jowett), torque to 18 ft/lb
-H001 nipple for hose (put my own 3/8" ID hose on this)
-EZ103 for drain pan, torque per specs on packaging
-screw the H001 with hose into either valve to drain.
-Put Jowett dust caps on both valves to keep them clean between oil changes
-use L001 if I'd rather have a 90* nipple for draining
Do I have all this right?
And I'll still need a socket like this or this to remove the OEM cap.
Nope. The EZ103 has an oring (gasket) built in.May be a dumb question, but do I use any a gasket between the EZ103 and drain pan?
May be a dumb question, but do I use any a gasket between the EZ103 and drain pan?
I have never heard of an accidental opening and in fact Fumoto offers a black plastic clip that prevents the un-entended opening.I've thought about installing a Fumoto valve on other vehicles before but have always been afraid of a kicked up rock or something hitting the valve lever and accidently dropping my oil. I know the odds of that scenario are low to zero but I just have always decided to deal with a little mess rather than take any chance. The LC oil change in in its own league in terms of being a PITA so I'm rethinking these valves and also the Jowett filter housing. I'll be installing BB skids as soon as they arrive so I know the valves will be totally protected. Has anyone ever heard of a valve failure causing the oil to drain while driving? Does anyone run with a plug in the Jowett filter housing drain valve or the F103N on the oil pan? Am I way over thinking this and worrying about a none issue?
Lots of ways to skin the cat, all which require notifying the entry level tech ( if you forget and take to dealer for oil change) how to open the valve so they don't just unscrew it to drain oil. Don't laugh, it has happened.I’d feel so much better with a 316SS Swagelok quarter turn or needle valve on there.....
Lots of ways to skin the cat, all which require notifying the entry level tech ( if you forget and take to dealer for oil change) how to open the valve so they don't just unscrew it to drain oil. Don't laugh, it has happened.
It's not vital but easier to get a wrench around flats on the pan drain valve.So how important is it to add these valves before I put the BB skid plates on? I’m assuming I will be able to install the valves with the skid plates on and the only issue will be the mess of the next oil change.
mine didn't come with instructions, and it took me a bit of searching to find this info.... hope it helps.
1) bend the tabs UP on the stock tube to remove it from plastic housing and push back down once in the jowett. The spring and tube move over, but the disc does not.
2) 18ft/lbs on the housing when going back into the engine. lubricate the new o-ring with a little new oil.
3) 30ft/lbs on the drain plug.
mine didn't come with instructions, and it took me a bit of searching to find this info.... hope it helps.
1) bend the tabs UP on the stock tube to remove it from plastic housing and push back down once in the jowett. The spring and tube move over, but the disc does not.
2) 18ft/lbs on the housing when going back into the engine. lubricate the new o-ring with a little new oil.
3) 30ft/lbs on the drain plug.