tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
that picture looks like oil not transmission fluid the adapter picture looks like a cut not a crack. Do you have all the vss sensors hooked up transmission will not shift correctly without both.
Japan meets America (Ls Swap) (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter wiynwiyn
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
I agree about it being oil, not transmission fluid. It could be the oil pressure sensor at the top rear of the motor, assuming it has the same location as my L96. Toyota and LS use different threading.
That does look like a clean cut on the adapter. How and Why?
The transmission mount bolt might still have enough engagement for it not to be a problem. Hopefully your cousin can weld aluminum.
That does look like a clean cut on the adapter. How and Why?
The transmission mount bolt might still have enough engagement for it not to be a problem. Hopefully your cousin can weld aluminum.
Mine was also leaking here. Took me a few days to figure it out.
- Thread starter
- #104
Thanks for the comment. Now, I looked closer didn’t see was a cut. Strange. Only thing we cut was the shaft. Mystery how that happened. Yes, I had the vss hooked up. No transmission oil under the torque converter. Right, It's the oil leaking. I checked today and see oil between the heads and the block. Looks like the freeze plug is bad. By the way, I can smell coolant when engine was running. My cousin it’s going to swap out the cylinder heads. Opportunity to replace the timing chain. He runs a repair shop and used to be a machinist. I’ll just pay him since I don’t have time. Yes he will weld the crack on the adapter. 30 common 4l60 transmission problems 6. No 3rd or 4th gear: “3-4” clutches are worn out: Needs to be removed and rebuilt. The car is safe to drive (in 2) until you can get it fixed.
Last edited:
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Sorry I took so long. Here’s how I have mine. Very simple with the rear heater deleted.
- Thread starter
- #106
I’m in the process on pulling out the ls motor and my cousin will rebuild it. 799 heads like the one in the police trucks. The engine seized up (crankshaft won’t rotate) besides the head gasket leaks. Well one the positive note, will have a better, more reliable engine. No more buying used engine.
Last edited:
Damn that's sucks 
sorry to hear that.
sorry to hear that.
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
Thats a bummer!
I would think about why it locked up. Leaky injector? Overheated? No oil pressure? Even a tired old junkyard engine should have lasted for a few months, just smoked and used oil.
It has cathedral heads, which means the engine could be 20+ years old. It might have been a good idea to have peaked at the crankshaft bearings, and pull the heads for inspection. If the cylinders looked good, throw in new bearings, rings and run it, without bringing it to machine shop. Machine shop is now in its future with the seized crank.
I would think about why it locked up. Leaky injector? Overheated? No oil pressure? Even a tired old junkyard engine should have lasted for a few months, just smoked and used oil.
It has cathedral heads, which means the engine could be 20+ years old. It might have been a good idea to have peaked at the crankshaft bearings, and pull the heads for inspection. If the cylinders looked good, throw in new bearings, rings and run it, without bringing it to machine shop. Machine shop is now in its future with the seized crank.
- Thread starter
- #109
It had low oil pressure. The oil pressure gauge was reading low when it blew up. I saw the video of the engine running, but you may never know. My cousin happen to have a few new rebuilt heads and blocks so he's going to use it for the rebuild. He had many years of experience as a machinist so I trust him. Really isn't that difficult to remove the ls engine. much smaller than the LC inline 6.
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
GM Minimum specs are 6 PSI @ 1000 RPM, 18 PSI @ 2000 RPM, And 24 PSI @ 4000 RPM. Was your engine worse than this?
What one really likes to see is at least 10 PSI/1000 RPM.
What one really likes to see is at least 10 PSI/1000 RPM.
- Thread starter
- #111
It was like 10 psi at 4,000 rpm. My dad's silverado had 400k miles and it was running good. I just got a bad one. Stroke of bad luck. I'm not extremely furious for the new rebuilt engine will spark me joy when I'm on an adventure and it may not break down. Better it happened nearby and not in the woods somewhere.
If the engine is seized up you might be better off looking for another one to replace/rebuild. I haven’t looked at the price of used 5.3 motors lately but they were going for cheap just a few years ago. Don’t give up on the 4L60E either. They work just fine if properly rebuilt, and there are lots of upgrades from the aftermarket too. Hang in there! I’ve been there, done that!
- Thread starter
- #113
Got the oil pressure/oil tempt and water tempt/battery digital gauges for Christmas. I really like the look and dual functions of the innovative meters.
I may get the trail teq steering column gauge holders later. There is a sale on the tempt/battery gauge now. $180 original price, sale price $71. Merry Christmas and happy new year everyone. Hopefully, luckier with the rebuilt engine next year.
I may get the trail teq steering column gauge holders later. There is a sale on the tempt/battery gauge now. $180 original price, sale price $71. Merry Christmas and happy new year everyone. Hopefully, luckier with the rebuilt engine next year.
Last edited:
The info on those gauges is really vague, is one function readout numerical in the middle and a second separate function is the circular bar with no number?
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
If those gauges are like my AEM wideband, the number is the digital representation of whatever sensor your reading and the bar graph LEDs are the analogue representation of that digital number. They can be very customizable with different faceplates depending on the sensor.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #116
You are correct NeverFinis. I like them. innovate motorsports. bunch of YouTube videos on them. You can set the warning temperature lights. These digital should be more reliable than the LC ones. Also, I just don't want to run like four gauges when I can simplify with two gauges.
the thing that was confusing to me is both of the gauges shown in the top left photo have two different items represented.
The one on the left has an oil symbol and a temperature symbol, the one on the right has a battery symbol and a temperature symbol ...
The one on the left has an oil symbol and a temperature symbol, the one on the right has a battery symbol and a temperature symbol ...
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
I didn't notice that but yea, those gauges look like they manage two sensors each. Digital Display for one sensor, and the Analog for the other sensor. This is different than my wide band O2, which uses both to display AFR or Lambda data, but appear have commonality in the display layout.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #119
Really like the innovate gauges. I decided to remove the single fan (obnoxiously loud like a jet engine when it’s activated) and install the Derale dual fans. These are rated 4000 cubic feet per minute.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #120
Sharing some photos of me wrapping the psi harness with this high temperature tape. Overall, I'm pleased
with psi harness, pcm. Pretty much plug and play. However, I had to extend the power wire to the alternator by like a foot (starter battery rings). Glad I didn't go with cheap Chinese harness that may fail while driving. Go cheap cry twice, go expensive cry once. Can't beat made in America. Fyi, they will ship you black and white installation guide. I encourage you to email them for the color pdf. Wish they would just ship us the colored ones. Initially, I had them program the pcm for 33" tires, but upgraded to 35" tires which cost me just $30 for reprograming. 35" tires look cooler than 33" in my opinion.
with psi harness, pcm. Pretty much plug and play. However, I had to extend the power wire to the alternator by like a foot (starter battery rings). Glad I didn't go with cheap Chinese harness that may fail while driving. Go cheap cry twice, go expensive cry once. Can't beat made in America. Fyi, they will ship you black and white installation guide. I encourage you to email them for the color pdf. Wish they would just ship us the colored ones. Initially, I had them program the pcm for 33" tires, but upgraded to 35" tires which cost me just $30 for reprograming. 35" tires look cooler than 33" in my opinion.
