Build Japan meets America (Ls Swap)
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- #62
Finally were able to fill up gas after 3 years. Now I need to get an alignment. Feels like a different car with the v8 and the lift. My Ome suspension is bumpy I contacted OME tech support and they said it's probably because I used heavy springs in the front. I will try medium 2851 springs later. In addition, I will replace the electrical fan. I'd rather go with the mechanical fan. Would be devastating if the electrical fan breaks down on you on your adventure.
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- #63
I learned that you have to raise up your LSPV when you lift up your LC. I was having spongy brakes after the ls swap. I bled all the brake fluids. Will see if this helps.
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What is an LSPV? Delete it. Be a man
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- #65
hahah. You are funny. I need to do some more research on it before I decide to. Worry of the liability since this won't be an offroad car.
Heater valve is pretty much the only thing that is holding my progress at the moment. It broke then I attempted to tighten the clamp on the new hose and I had to order a new one. Should be here this Saturday. Good thing it happened now and not 300 miles form home!
Smaller fitting on the water pump is Supply and goes to the driver side of the heater valve. Your routing looks to be correct.
I "deleted" mine, but really its more of an exchange.
When we first got our LC it had bulging brake lines in the front, so I replaced those, as well as adding a new brake MC and booster. Brakes still weren't great. After our lift I adjusted the LSPV twice, and the brakes never felt right. I read up on the LSPV delete' and decided to do it. They have been an issue on other Toyotas I have owned. I put in a Willwood manual brake regulator and it really helped to feel of the brakes a lot.
If you replace the LSPV with a manual brake regulator you aren't deleting anything, your just changing it from a brake regulator that uses rear weight to self adjust, to a manually adjusted unit. Allows you to fine tune things much better for any driving condition or situation. And the new Toyota LSPV valves are EXPENSIVE!
I guess if your set on keeping the the OE LSPV, you could try cleaning it out in a sonic cleaner. They tend to get filled up with gunk and that's why they stop working well.
My wife daily drives the LC to work every day, and loves the brakes. They feel as good as the brakes in my '17 Tacoma.
Link to a great LSPV write up with part numbers. Sadly I don't think the bracket for the Willwood valve is still available. But easy to make. The install will be a bit different for you because you have anti lock brakes, but there are write ups for that on here too. Its not to much different, and you can keep the anti lock system. The brake stuff is on page 3.
- Thread starter
- #69
Thanks for the advice. I will have a beer and read your post tonight. I'm replacing the brake cylinder and raise up the LSPV if that doesn't resolve the spongy brakes, I will delete. Happy thanksgiving all, wish you well!!I "deleted" mine, but really its more of an exchange.
When we first got our LC it had bulging brake lines in the front, so I replaced those, as well as adding a new brake MC and booster. Brakes still weren't great. After our lift I adjusted the LSPV twice, and the brakes never felt right. I read up on the LSPV delete' and decided to do it. They have been an issue on other Toyotas I have owned. I put in a Willwood manual brake regulator and it really helped to feel of the brakes a lot.
If you replace the LSPV with a manual brake regulator you aren't deleting anything, your just changing it from a brake regulator that uses rear weight to self adjust, to a manually adjusted unit. Allows you to fine tune things much better for any driving condition or situation. And the new Toyota LSPV valves are EXPENSIVE!
I guess if your set on keeping the the OE LSPV, you could try cleaning it out in a sonic cleaner. They tend to get filled up with gunk and that's why they stop working well.
My wife daily drives the LC to work every day, and loves the brakes. They feel as good as the brakes in my '17 Tacoma.
Link to a great LSPV write up with part numbers. Sadly I don't think the bracket for the Willwood valve is still available. But easy to make. The install will be a bit different for you because you have anti lock brakes, but there are write ups for that on here too. Its not to much different, and you can keep the anti lock system. The brake stuff is on page 3.
- Thread starter
- #70
I don’t justify paying 60$ for Dobinexpensive extension bracket when I can make one for approximately 5$. Took me less than an hour to drill some holes, prime/paint and install.
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- #72
I ran into a heating problem, it blows warm air but not hot. I may have ran the hoses incorrectly. Research but could not find the answers. Can someone please verify that’s that’s how coolant flow. After 20 mins of warming up the engine. The small hoses around the heater valve is still cold. The cooling, heating cable moves when you switch from cold to hot. Doesn’t seem like hot coolant goes into the heater core, resulting only warm air. May have bubbles in the cooling system? Flush coolant out completely? Installed a brand new thermostat. Appreciate it.
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Smaller pipe on water pump = supply to heater core
Larger pipe on water pump = return from heater core.
Yours looks correct . You might still have air in your heating system.
I am using a second 180 degree bend, as seen on the left side, and I installed a second on the right side.
Larger pipe on water pump = return from heater core.
Yours looks correct . You might still have air in your heating system.
I am using a second 180 degree bend, as seen on the left side, and I installed a second on the right side.
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- #74
Thank you very much NeverFinis. Found these diagrams on the ls forums. Easy to understand how coolant flows. I think they got it wrong referring to image 2. The 5/8 pipe should be out to heatercore, 3/4 in from heatercore.
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- Thread starter
- #76
Not factory. Used plastic elbows and didn't like it, so swapped them out for these ones (heavier duty). Use for the plumbing system in a house.
Fzj80 denso works great on LS swaps. No need typically to change type. Replacing old one for another works!
I’ll snap a pic of how mine are a little later. You should be able to get rid of that elbow thing.
Easier than trying to explain. Picture = 1000 words