Build Japan meets America (Ls Swap)

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The advantage of having HP Tuners...set wheel size at any time... 😁

HP Tuners has a Gear/Tire wizard, which changes all the appropriate transmission settings. However, a 35" tire is never a true 35" tire when mounted.

Mounted on the vehicle, with weight compressing the tire, my KO3s (285/75/R18) are 17" to the hub.

This means I should have put 34" into the Gear/Tire Wizard when I first used it. I bypassed the wizard this time and entered the information directly.
 
Got this beauty back after the rebuilt. My cousin is working on that lt4 swap (pushes like 650hp, twice as much horses comparing to mine). I wish I have the lt4 in the LC. :)

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Consequences from low oil pressure. Seized engine destroyed the bearings, pistons…and block. Sometimes, bad luck leads to 8 strokes of good luck.

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Installed the derale duel fans onto the radiator. Hate how deafening the old single fan was. There were air gaps between the fans shroud so had to fabricated some aluminum L channels and infilled at the perimeter of the radiator. Hope this setup works out. If overheating, will shift toward mechanical fan.

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LS motor in. Installation this time was way easier. Engine starts and sounds really good. Using the lift plate hoist picker crane (amazon) was a game changer; along with the 2x4 to steer the motor into place. Now, got to clean up the engine bay, wiring..

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Easy but one filthy job. Broke two tie rod pullers. Old man taught me a trick, jack up the tie rod and hit it with a hammer repeatedly, will pop out eventually. Soaked the greasy bolts, nuts in gasoline/beer cans. Great reference video and video.

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Alignment.. front was really off with 3 inch lift. Surprisingly rear stays about the same. I’m running with a P0171 bank 1 lean. I checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned the maf sensor, will see if makes a difference. Hope it’s not low fuel pressure. Also, another problem, the cabin is hot. The lower plastics at the gear shifter is hot. I may put some sort of thermal wraps on the floor. Advice would be appreciated. Thanks gentlemen.

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A lift wouldn't change your toe-in.

I wouldn't think you would have much heat issues due to the way you routed your exhaust, notwithstanding the passenger floor boards. Make sure you are still running that heat shield just in front of the evaporator drain.

I suspect some of the heat issue is that you are running electric fans. They don't move the same amount of air as a mechanical fan.

Are you running 2 O2 sensors, one on each side? Just confirm they are are good to go, without leaks nearby. You might want to swap left/right just to test them.
 
NeverFinis said:
A lift wouldn't change your toe-in.

I wouldn't think you would have much heat issues due to the way you routed your exhaust, notwithstanding the passenger floor boards. Make sure you are still running that heat shield just in front of the evaporator drain.

I suspect some of the heat issue is that you are running electric fans. They don't move the same amount of air as a mechanical fan.

Are you running 2 O2 sensors, one on each side? Just confirm they are are good to go, without leaks nearby. You might want to swap left/right just to test them.
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Yeah, if I can go back in time and saw your post first. I would go with mechanical fan.
Yes, still running that evaporator fan. I will replace both O2 sensors. Ones I'm running now was off the donor vehicle which had 180k miles (first engine). Time to replace.
 
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Happy day. Smoke machine was a good investment. No more P0171 code. This machine is amazing. For my application. I need the silicone reducer hose to be 3.5” and 4” (image 4). I learned using the 4” silicon hose on both sides won’t work with the type of clamp provided (won’t seal properly, creating a leak). Replaced with the correct one. Motor now is running about zero long term on both banks.. Before was running lean with 25 percent.

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Added a transmission gauge, using the glow shift trans tempt sensor. Double din installed. Had to deal with the dome fused kept on blowing after the install (probably draws too much power from the dome fuse). To fix it I ran the ground to the chassis and the constant power straight to the battery with a 15 fuse. Got the aftermarket fog lights to work with the Toyota switches (00550-35976 inexpensive at the dealership @ $9 each), cleaner look than the ones provided with the fog lights package.

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Ditched the trailblazer cable for the rod setup. Works wonder. Didn’t have to bend anything. I decided to not use the neutral safety switch at the moment. Will come back to it when have some more time. Probably will work with some bends to the rod. Lots of clearance without. Shifting feel is very accurate when going into gear. Red indicator on image 3 is in reverse. Looks like the distance is twice as much. Added some temporary stickers.

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Really hope these sound insulation makes a difference. Kilmat smells more like melted asphalt roof shingles than the amazon ones , however kilmat is more sticky and the bad smell goes away eventually. Got the inspiration form RM Garage. Ran out of materials will come back to it next year, yet to add on the roof and door panels. Been working on LC the whole summer, need to put it all back together and enjoy the achievements.

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NeverFinis said:
If I had to do it over again, I would use much less. You don't need much on each body panel to kill resonance, and they add a ton of weight.
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I was really questioning it since the LC already has some sound deadening. In addition, some areas are covered by the seats... Only put one layer some added more. Not like it's going to make a huge difference. Maybe I'll skip the roof and just add the heat insulation instead. Did it mitigate the noise pollution for you?
 
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