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- #81
That is a clever way to do it. I will buy that and install. Thanks
Build Japan meets America (Ls Swap)
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- #82
Regarding no heat going into the heatercore. I think I may know the cause. Tested the thermostat with boiling water. Disconnected the in and out hoses from the waterpump, connected the water hose to the out hose(to the heatercore), turned on water and water flowed out of the heatercore hose. I used the cheap method to take out the bubbles (could have bought an adapter on Amazon) but this was quick to make and can dispose after usage. Warm up the engine for 25 mins. I noticed all of the hoses were hot, but the return hose (heatercore to waterpump was cold. I think the Acdelco waterpump I bought on Amazon is defective, not circulating. I removed the hose at the heater valve, no coolant pressure. So no hot coolant into the heatercore, resulted no heat.
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I doubt your issue is with the water pump.
Found this
back port = port closest to the engine block.
What this means is your heater core should not see heat (or water flow) until the engine has warmed, and not before.
In the picture of your thermostat, at the base there is a second spring. I believe this spring prevents water flow through the heater core while the engine is cold. I can't tell from your picture if that second smaller spring has contracted or expanded due to heating. I assume it supposed to contract with heating. The main spring has obviously contracted to allow water flow to the radiator.
I would measure the plate at the bottom at hot and cold to see if that plate if moving. It should be. If it isn't, replace the thermostat.
Found this
back port = port closest to the engine block.
What this means is your heater core should not see heat (or water flow) until the engine has warmed, and not before.
In the picture of your thermostat, at the base there is a second spring. I believe this spring prevents water flow through the heater core while the engine is cold. I can't tell from your picture if that second smaller spring has contracted or expanded due to heating. I assume it supposed to contract with heating. The main spring has obviously contracted to allow water flow to the radiator.
I would measure the plate at the bottom at hot and cold to see if that plate if moving. It should be. If it isn't, replace the thermostat.
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- #84
Appreciate the info. Inside a Chevy water pump, how it works. 5 mins in it explains the smaller spring. Yup. You are right it prevents water from entering the heatercore when it’s cold. I first thought it was the brand new acdelco thermostat I replaced. Yesterday I installed an aftermarket one. I tested them both, they open. But I was unaware of the smaller spring at the time. I will test to see if the smaller spring contracts or not. Hope it’s not the heatercore. There is air blowing, heatercore vents open (have not install the lower air tube under the steering wheel, so I can see it).
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- #85
....duplicate
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- #86
....duplicate
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....duplicate
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....duplicate
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....duplicate
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- #90
....duplicate. Not sure how to delete the messages. It kept on duplicating my response.
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tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Did the internet studder?
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- #92
haha. The internet thermostat didn't activate. This landcruiser project became a landcryser project with no heat. I may have to wear two down jackets and five ski masks while driving it.
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- #93
Strange duplication. Something is wacky with the internet today. I may have to smack it with my broken china made acdelco thermostat.
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It’s ‘Mud.
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- #95
I really don't think it's the thermostat. When the engine was running hot, I removed these hoses located at the heater valve and there was no water/coolant flowing out the lower hose. However, when I pumped water into the upper hose, water/coolant flows out. Means there is no pressure going into the heatercore.
The smaller spring on the thermostat has to contract for the fluid to flow out of the lower hose. The acdelco pump I bought on amazon can be fake or defective. There are counterfeit on Amazon, ebay.. I'm going to remove the upper radiator hose to see if fluid comes out when hot.
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Neat video. Thanks.
According to the video you posted, the smaller spring expands when it gets hot, shutting off the bypass allowing coolant to flow to the heater core. If that spring doesn't expand with heat, you will get less (or no) flow to the heater core.
I would confirm that is the correct thermostat for that water pump. I believe there were two types.. I think the changeover was 2004.
Also, confirm that the serpentine belt is on correctly.
According to the video you posted, the smaller spring expands when it gets hot, shutting off the bypass allowing coolant to flow to the heater core. If that spring doesn't expand with heat, you will get less (or no) flow to the heater core.
I would confirm that is the correct thermostat for that water pump. I believe there were two types.. I think the changeover was 2004.
Also, confirm that the serpentine belt is on correctly.
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- #97
Good news. You are a genius Neverfinis. I unplugged the upper hose to see if fluid comes out. It doesn’t but when the fan turns on and the thermostat opens, fluid flows out. Waterpump is working. I’m so ecstatic that I won’t have to replace anything else. All the hoses are hot now, including the return hose. Warmer than before. I can’t figure out this mystery. My guess is that there was still air in the cooling system. On the other hand, I will need to figure out the other problem. Only high and off works on the fan control switch. I believe there was a thread relating to this problem I once saw. Two days before thanksgiving god said let there be heat for this poor landcruiser owner. Excuse my lame jokes y’all.
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- #99
Thanks again. I have a spare I'll swap it out and see what happens.
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- #100
An emotional day on Black Friday. I was driving on the highway the first time. Rpm revs high won’t go beyond 50 mpg. Feels like it doesn’t shift beyond 3rd gear. Checked under the engine later and found had some oil around the starter. Removed the starter. And put fingers inside, under the torque converter, didn’t see any oil. Between the heads and block on both sides. I saw some wetness. Bad head gaskets and damaged clutch pack for the third year I believe. Thought I had a good rebuilt transmission. I should got with the 4l80. Moreover, there is a crack on the marks adapter. Poorly built. Well I will search for a better rebuilt transmission in the future. Lesson learn never buy a used transmission. I may need to put this project on a hold until spring or just pay a shop to swap out the tranny. I need to get back on my architectural professional exams. This project is time consuming and lots of headaches.
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