Builds Jacks 40 to fake 45 build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter JackA
- Start date
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Living in the Past
SILVER Star
You decided on a J30 three speed or do you have a SM420 and adapter plate?
DickM
SILVER Star
Your work is been a pleasure to watch, and a source of great info. You get more done in a couple of hours than I do in a day.
Don't know what went wrong with the rear seal install, but this method, courtesy of @FJ40Jim. has worked faultlessly for me on several occasions.
JoinedSep 26, 2003Messages11,212LocationLancaster, Ohio, USAWebsitewww.tlcperformance.com
To install rear seal, if the oil pan & rear main cap are not being removed, it helps to have a special tool to start pressing in the seal uniformly. Fortunately every 2 F comes with the SST. It's also called a flywheel.
To use the SST, place the new seal into the opening, present SST to the crank, start 3 bolts, then ratchet all 3 bolts all the way down, working around the triangle to keep the SST fairly flat to the back of the block. After all 3 bolts have bottomed, zap them out & remove SST/flywheel and gaze in wonder at the un-marred, perfectly straight seal that just needs tapped in another 1/16" until it is flush with opening.
Best to tap it home with hammer & a little scrap of 2x4 to avoid marring seal or crankshaft.
Don't know what went wrong with the rear seal install, but this method, courtesy of @FJ40Jim. has worked faultlessly for me on several occasions.
FJ40Jim
The Cruiser Whisperer
SILVER Star
JoinedSep 26, 2003Messages11,212LocationLancaster, Ohio, USAWebsitewww.tlcperformance.com
To install rear seal, if the oil pan & rear main cap are not being removed, it helps to have a special tool to start pressing in the seal uniformly. Fortunately every 2 F comes with the SST. It's also called a flywheel.
To use the SST, place the new seal into the opening, present SST to the crank, start 3 bolts, then ratchet all 3 bolts all the way down, working around the triangle to keep the SST fairly flat to the back of the block. After all 3 bolts have bottomed, zap them out & remove SST/flywheel and gaze in wonder at the un-marred, perfectly straight seal that just needs tapped in another 1/16" until it is flush with opening.
Best to tap it home with hammer & a little scrap of 2x4 to avoid marring seal or crankshaft.
- Thread starter
- #424
Yes, it's getting a 3 speed. Upgrades may happen at a later date.
Last edited:
You ever going wheeling again
- Thread starter
- #427
Of course, I haven't had any invites lately though.
fjwagon
SILVER Star
Jack, I'm curious to know if you flared any brake lines on this project and what flaring tool you will be using or recommend. I'm in the process of replacing damaged/rusted brake lines. I have never used one and don't want buy something i will regret later. Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #431
Thanks for the kind words. As for the flaring tool, I have not done the lines on this truck yet. I am shopping for a good flaring tool myself, along with flare nuts and tubing. I am leaning towards the one Eastwood sells. It's not cheap, but hopefully it's a good quality and will work for many years. I will report back when I find something I like and buy.
fjwagon
SILVER Star
Yup , I saw the one made by Eastwood and looks like something I would consider. Definitely a nice one. Like they say, how hard could it be to use one. And then you purchase one and find out it's not as easy to use, or not as convenient to use because of its size, etc. I have a bad habit breaking tools so they need to be durable and have good warranty.
Anyhow, on the fittings and brake lines, went down to our local PicknPull and removed some from an earley 2000 toyota Tundra. I measured the diameter of the brake line and they come very close in diameter to the one I will be replacing. What I really wanted was the plastic sleeve or liner on the brake line. The brake lines I remove were located underneath, attached to the side of the frame. A little over 4 ft. In length. I'm hoping to remove part of plastic sleeve and flare them and hopefully reuse the donor fittings from the Tundra if I have to.
Anyhow, on the fittings and brake lines, went down to our local PicknPull and removed some from an earley 2000 toyota Tundra. I measured the diameter of the brake line and they come very close in diameter to the one I will be replacing. What I really wanted was the plastic sleeve or liner on the brake line. The brake lines I remove were located underneath, attached to the side of the frame. A little over 4 ft. In length. I'm hoping to remove part of plastic sleeve and flare them and hopefully reuse the donor fittings from the Tundra if I have to.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Aren't the 40 series brake lines double flared? For my FJ45 I was lucky and a HJ47RV ended up in a close by salvage yard. I pulled all the brake lines. Wheel base is the same and an easy way to update the smaller single circuit brake line to the larger dual circuit system. I know hard drawn copper is harder to flare than soft drawn copper. Steel is even harder. Cutting OEM flares and silver soldering to other steel line is an option. The steel line will rust before a silver solder joint fails.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
I'm pretty sure DOT requires all brake lines to be double flared. If they're not, it's an insurance claim that wont be paid out if found out or a law suit waiting to happen. Compression fittings and soldered lines are a no no. You can junction lines with an inverted flare coupling nut. Nicop is easy to bend and flare and won't rust, steel is tougher to flare, and stainless is harder yet. I've used nicop for the frame lines and use steel lines on the axle, which are exposed to trail rash. Imo, nicop can be crushed and bent to easily on the axle.
I have a great flaring tool, you can borrow
I have been very happy with this flare tool, which looks exactly like the Eastwood above. Amazon product ASIN B01HOXH242For me, the time savings quickly makes up for the price, compared with the simple clamp flare tools.
