J2Hundy Valley Plate Leak Guard Seal

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This item came up for discussion in one of the FB groups but I know there is a lot of knowledge here in the forum that can chime in on using something like this. The owner seems to be knowledgeable but I wanted to hear a few other opinions before buying something like this.

 
Personally? I won’t put a sheet gasket into a spot Toyota didn’t design the engine for.

1, this will lift the plate the thickness of that gasket, which means the o-ring interfaces with the water pipe at the front will be out of alignment.

2, Toyota designed the plate specifically for the sealing regime they used.. meaning an ultra-thin layer of FIPG in the gap. A gasket (even rubber impregnated sheet paper) allows more compression, which means the plate will flex more between mounting bolts.

3, to my knowledge when the correct updated sealant is used and the job done well, repeat leaks aren’t a problem.
 
Personally? I won’t put a sheet gasket into a spot Toyota didn’t design the engine for.

1, this will lift the plate the thickness of that gasket, which means the o-ring interfaces with the water pipe at the front will be out of alignment.

2, Toyota designed the plate specifically for the sealing regime they used.. meaning an ultra-thin layer of FIPG in the gap. A gasket (even rubber impregnated sheet paper) allows more compression, which means the plate will flex more between mounting bolts.

3, to my knowledge when the correct updated sealant is used and the job done well, repeat leaks aren’t a problem.
So the fipg that you buy now is different than the stuff they put in when it was built?
 
So the fipg that you buy now is different than the stuff they put in when it was built?
As I understand it, yes. The new stuff is quite expensive but has a good track record if used properly.
 
I'd be open to the gasket performing as advertised.

For my money, I'll stick with the Toyota Seal Packing 1282B Silicone Liquid Gasket (08826-00100). I've been able to find tubes for $44 USD, which is pretty close to that gasket price. I'll be interested to see how the gasket performs longer term, if there's a guinea-pig.
 
As @bloc said repeat leaks aren't really a problem I have heard of.

Both of our current 200s, had VP done at 130k and at 160k. One is at 296k and one is at 200k, neither the VP has come back. Our RCF and ISF also had VP done one time.

Also I am not buying things from some company that calls itself "2hundy"
😂 What’s wrong with “2Hundy” 😂
 
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I'd be open to the gasket performing as advertised.

For my money, I'll stick with the Toyota Seal Packing 1282B Silicone Liquid Gasket (08826-00100). I've been able to find tubes for $44 USD, which is pretty close to that gasket price. I'll be interested to see how the gasket performs longer term, if there's a guinea-pig.
Do you mind me asking where you are sourcing it from at that price? Almost feel like a group buy is in order for this stuff. Have like 3 or 4 guys pitch in and split a tube 4 ways 😂
 
Do you mind me asking where you are sourcing it from at that price? Almost feel like a group buy is in order for this stuff. Have like 3 or 4 guys pitch in and split a tube 4 ways 😂

It ships from UAE. I ordered some along with other maintenance parts to cut down on shipping costs. Also a great source for plastic clips, etc. Often as cheap or cheaper than partsouq, amayama, or IMPEX Japan. I have a special love for partsouq because of the ease-of-use of the website, ability to fast-track, and shipping options, but between these 4 sources, everything is almost always much cheaper than my local Lexus or Toyota shop.
 
As @bloc said repeat leaks aren't really a problem I have heard of.

Both of our current 200s, had VP done at 130k and at 160k. One is at 296k and one is at 200k, neither the VP has come back. Our RCF and ISF also had VP done one time.

Also I am not buying things from some company that calls itself "2hundy"
I met the owner at Windrock at COTR last October. I’m pretty sure this will work as advertised… once everything is torqued down I don’t see any issues with the thickness, and FIPG can end up leaking if it’s not done evenly or it gets smudged when reinstalling. That said the newer FIPG also works as advertised if done correctly.

I’d love to see a long term analysis of subsequent failures of both, but you’d need a decade or more to really confirm if either is significantly better.
 
I met the owner at Windrock at COTR last October. I’m pretty sure this will work as advertised… once everything is torqued down I don’t see any issues with the thickness, and FIPG can end up leaking if it’s not done evenly or it gets smudged when reinstalling. That said the newer FIPG also works as advertised if done correctly.

I’d love to see a long term analysis of subsequent failures of both, but you’d need a decade or more to really confirm if either is significantly better.
I used the newer FIPG , I will report back to you in a decade.
 
I will be dead by then, but my 200 will still be chugging along, because I used the good OEM FIPG
Haha. Well I’ll still be here. I used the FIPG too so hopefully my 200 is still chugging along
 
looks like we both used the same stuff and not the stuff being pimped on this thread ;)
FIPG was the only thing available to my knowledge when mine was done. Though in fairness mine was done at my dealer and I don’t think I would’ve tried the gasket even if it was available because the new FIPG is apparently known to be better than the original.

if i was doing the job myself now and trying to save some $ on the repair, Id consider the gasket. Once I was dropping $1400 on the repair, saving $100 but voiding any warranty the dealer would give me on the repair wouldn’t make sense.
 
FIPG was the only thing available to my knowledge when mine was done. Though in fairness mine was done at my dealer and I don’t think I would’ve tried the gasket even if it was available because the new FIPG is apparently known to be better than the original.

if i was doing the job myself now and trying to save some $ on the repair, Id consider the gasket. Once I was dropping $1400 on the repair, saving $100 but voiding any warranty the dealer would give me on the repair wouldn’t make sense.

same here. i wouldn’t have tried this even if it was available just like you

thus i am not wiling to tell others go ahead and try it when i myself wouldnt take a chance
 
Personally? I won’t put a sheet gasket into a spot Toyota didn’t design the engine for.

1, this will lift the plate the thickness of that gasket, which means the o-ring interfaces with the water pipe at the front will be out of alignment.

2, Toyota designed the plate specifically for the sealing regime they used.. meaning an ultra-thin layer of FIPG in the gap. A gasket (even rubber impregnated sheet paper) allows more compression, which means the plate will flex more between mounting bolts.

3, to my knowledge when the correct updated sealant is used and the job done well, repeat leaks aren’t a problem.
Very good points!


@2001LC Since you've seen quite a few of these trucks with leaks, is this something you would consider?
First, I've heard of this gasket. I do think, "worth considering". If it works it works. If not, back to square one.

FWIW: I use a borescope to inspect for Valley plate leak. I've only inspected about 1/2 dozen so far. Ranging from 2008-2016. All leak!

Borescope inspection, 2016 two weeks ago:
Image_2025-01-11 10_14_29_170.JPG


I don't know if FIPG 1282B, is any different than factory used.
Other than factory would likely use in bulk/gun, rather than tube.

What I do see, 100 series 4.7l. Factory FIPG used on oil pan, it is gray. FIPG 102 or 103 oil we buy in tube, is black. So an example, there are some differences from factory FIPG.

I don't know if tube of 1282B has change, in last few years. If so, it would have likely had a designator or P/N change. Like we saw with 102 oil, update/sub to 103 oil FIPG. My last tube 1282B, was same as I've seen for more than 10 years. But it has been a few years, since I bought a new tube. When I look at a Toyota parts page, I don't see a P/N difference/sub for 1282B.

IMHO: Valley plate, is a poor design. I saw four issues:
  • No V groove in plate, for FIPG. Note: We see these V groove (most FIPG seal points) in 100 series 4.7L. Which they never leak at FIPG. Not even at 25 years and 500K miles. Not even the 1 million mile 4.7L VVti U.S. manufactured Tundra, noted any leak.
  • To much space between securing bolts, resulting in uneven press on plate to block.
  • Valley plate a to thin, for spacing of bolts.
  • Water pipe is not a precision part.
Water pipe:

I've found some, of the factory water pipes, leaking at O-ring. Measuring the factory installed water pipe, and comparing to new water pipe P/N 16322-0S010 (old 16322-38010). I found, neither perfectly round. Also, the diameter varied. The new pipe I had purchased, had slightly larger diameter.

Also the angle on pipe, we need during install of plate. Doesn't lend itself well, to this service. IMHO the engineers, weren't required to turn a wrench, in the field, on 200 series. A big mistake, making servicing difficult.

I see three choices:
  • Consider valley plate as a PM service, in cost of ownership.
  • Use this gasket, see how it holds up. "Cheap easy mod"
  • Design and manufacture, a new valley plate and water pipe. Costly, prototype! Cost, can be spread, on volume runs of proven design.

Valley plate redesign:
~3mm increase in mounting surface aluminium. Increasing stiffness.
~2mm V groove in mounting surface.
Water pipe redesign:
Precision size and roundness.

If enough interest in a redesign. I can have a prototypes made and tested?
 
FWIW: I use a borescope to inspect for Valley plate leak. I've only inspected about 1/2 dozen so far. Ranging from 2008-2016. All leak!
Any chance you can share the best place to put the borescope when looking for the valley plate leak? Pictures would be super helpful for us vocabulary challenged folks.
 

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