J2Hundy Valley Plate Leak Guard Seal

[bloc]

[*]Design and manufacture, a new valley plate and water pipe. Costly, prototype! Cost, can be spread, on volume runs of proven design.

I can't find anything about it in a quick search but vaguely remember seeing a product that was a plasma-cut piece of steel that fit under the bolt heads but on top of the valley plate around the perimeter, thereby stiffening the aluminum between the bolt heads. If the top of the sealing surface is flat enough this could help address that issue.

I will say though, one major advantage to FIPG is that it inherently adjusts itself to uneven sealing thickness after torquing the plate, before the FIPG has set up. I think you are right that a groove could help a lot.

I also seem to remember reading an analysis online that this may be caused by a couple places where the FIPG wasn't applied correctly.. like the computer-guided machine leaves a couple spots that are too thin. I can't remember where I read that, but they had pretty solid logic and lots of pictures of separated valley plates as evidence. I have been paying attention to this as it's so common, though I'm one of the fortunate ones with no leak at over 200k miles.

 

[Supra Turbo]

Also I am not buying things from some company that calls itself "2hundy"

How........

 

[gasman4u]

How........View attachment 3826645

"I gave him a dollar....."

but yeah...not confidence inspiring when hearing "from the engineering team with X amount of years over at J2Hundy, we present...."

 

[2001LC]

Any chance you can share the best place to put the borescope when looking for the valley plate leak? Pictures would be super helpful for us vocabulary challenged folks.

With foam in places, makes a bit harder. I, go down under front of intake manifold/air pipe/throttle body area. Look at water pipe. to valley plate and water pump o-ring. Also below, where there's often a puddle on block. I also, look down both side a long valley plate seal to block. The rear area is accessed, from back of intake manifold.

I have a 6mm camera on 3' snake w/360 degree directional (hard to control) borescope attached to iphone LED. It would be easier with 180 degree directional. 8mm 180 degree. Has better resolution, sold on Amazon.

I look until coolant/crusty pink seen at minimum, or untill all areas of valley seal and water pipe viewed.

I can't find anything about it in a quick search but vaguely remember seeing a product that was a plasma-cut piece of steel that fit under the bolt heads but on top of the valley plate around the perimeter, thereby stiffening the aluminum between the bolt heads. If the top of the sealing surface is flat enough this could help address that issue.

I will say though, one major advantage to FIPG is that it inherently adjusts itself to uneven sealing thickness after torquing the plate, before the FIPG has set up. I think you are right that a groove could help a lot.

I also seem to remember reading an analysis online that this may be caused by a couple places where the FIPG wasn't applied correctly.. like the computer-guided machine leaves a couple spots that are too thin. I can't remember where I read that, but they had pretty solid logic and lots of pictures of separated valley plates as evidence. I have been paying attention to this as it's so common, though I'm one of the fortunate ones with no leak at over 200k miles.

Just making more rigid, with steel border. May be helpful. But wouldn't give the V groove.
The V groove IMHO is needed. Which a resigned casted aluminum valley plate could address both. I use a Machine shop now, that can make the molds for prototype. He can then make small batches. Of 10, 20, 100, etc., a one man shop. To spread cost of prototype. Run of 100 may make reasonable.

For now, for me. It's a PM. Unless I see a lot of interest, to make worth my time and expense.


Here's example, of V groove seen in 100 series 4.7L
This is new water inlet on 4/7L. We use 1282B in V groove. Interesting. New they come with FIPG in the groove. It act just like fresh FIPG 1282B, out of the tube. Squashing out the sides, when torqued down. These water inlets, only have two bolts 8mmx1.25 torqued to 13ft-lbf holding down a very thick and small body. It never leaks.

We fill the V groove with 1282B FIPG and use soapy (dish) water the new 0-ring. Install to 13ft-lbf. Done never a leaks.

Interesting. It uses same O-ring. But just needs 1. It is in a very nice heaver and perfectly sized groove. They also never leak when properly installed, with soapy water.

Why Toyota went away from a proven design (thick with V groove), IDK. Considering the size of valley plate, seems a mistake IMHO.

 

[bloc]

Why Toyota went away from a proven design (thick with V groove), IDK. Considering the size of valley plate, seems a mistake IMHO.

To be fair, that is a very different part. Because it isn't just a flat plate at the mounting surface it'll be far less prone to deforming when torqued properly.. this means the sealing surfaces will stay more parallel.

 

[2001LC]

To be fair, that is a very different part. Because it isn't just a flat plate at the mounting surface it'll be far less prone to deforming when torqued properly.. this means the sealing surfaces will stay more parallel.

It's just example. To show the groove for FIPG, and thicker for more rigidity.

 

[2001LC]

Here's the real question: Are the properly re-sealed valley plates, lasting. Or are they doomed to fail (lesk) yet once again?

If a "proper" reseal service, last the life of engine. We've, no need for gasket in question (OP) or a redesigned valley plate.

If last say 120K miles, not the worst PM to have to factor into cost of ownership. I, also replace the PCV valve and grommets (front and rear). Another 120K, good PM.

To reach that 120K miles. The coolant system must run a peaks performance also. Which we've a few keys to insure. i.e.:
Radiator cap, thermostat, coolant condition & level and Radiator Fin Cleaning.

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

forum.ih8mud.com

We should also monitor actual engine coolant temperature (ECT). Making sure, running within normal operating temp range.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

If any of you know me… “knowledge without experience, is just, information.” So let’s give it a shot and see what happens. Here’s about the 30th coolant heat exchanger re-seal I’ve done. I like doing this job, I find it pretty easy and satisfying. I even plan to offer this service as a mobile job, when I’m stateside.

Background: this particular 3UR came to me after having the coolant heat exchanger plate re-sealed with 1282b about 80k miles ago. I know the Toyota master mechanic that did the job. I highly doubt he did a poor job. So here we are, customer wants to try something else. Sounds good to me, I see zero ill effects of using this instead of a 1282b. The J2hundy is a little under a millimeter thick.

So far this engine has hauled a 7,500 pound trailer up a steep mounting in western NC as its initial test. Let’s see how the next tens of thousands of miles do on it.

Take this as you will, doing this stuff day in a day out, I’ve personally seen way too many lubricants, seals, and gaskets from Toyota not hold up like they used to over the recent years. I’m loosing confidence in Toyota lubricants and adhesives, which is hard for me to say out loud.

 

[gasman4u]

I hope this thing works out as fundamentally I think a ready made gasket should hold a seal better than (insert bead of whatever sealant du jour here) would.

Similar to some of the domestic trucks rear diff's not having a drain bolt, but instead require you to remove rear diff cover to drain oil (it sucks as bad as it sounds). Lubelocker comes to mind and I've only used them a couple times, but similar idea vs using RTV sealant for a solution to an OEM problem.

 

[MTKID]

If any of you know me… “knowledge without experience, is just, information.” So let’s give it a shot and see what happens. Here’s about the 30th coolant heat exchanger re-seal I’ve done. I like doing this job, I find it pretty easy and satisfying. I even plan to offer this service as a mobile job, when I’m stateside.

View attachment 3846219
View attachment 3846220

Background: this particular 3UR came to me after having the coolant heat exchanger plate re-sealed with 1282b about 80k miles ago. I know the Toyota master mechanic that did the job. I highly doubt he did a poor job. So here we are, customer wants to try something else. Sounds good to me, I see zero ill effects of using this instead of a 1282b. The J2hundy is a little under a millimeter thick.

So far this engine has hauled a 7,500 pound trailer up a steep mounting in western NC as its initial test. Let’s see how the next tens of thousands of miles do on it.

Take this as you will, doing this stuff day in a day out, I’ve personally seen way too many lubricants, seals, and gaskets from Toyota not hold up like they used to over the recent years. I’m loosing confidence in Toyota lubricants and adhesives, which is hard for me to say out loud.

I see a lot of comments about this as a replacement for 1282b, but the instructions I was given did still include an RTV on both sides of this gasket. This gasket was intended to provide, as I understand, a little larger surface for the RTV to adhere to and hopefully last longer.
When asked if the gasket received the RTV on both sides of the gasket, this was his response…

“Yes both sides. I used high temp grey, and zero issues. Just ensure the following:
1. The surfaces are all perfectly clean, not even skin oil from a finger print. For this you can use brake clean etc. for the last wipe down.
2. Ensure you follow the directions to a T regarding the room temperature vulcanizing (rtv) instructions for its use.
3. When you apply the rtv, throw on some nitrile gloves, and using your finger to apply a nice thin even layer to the heat exchanger; then apply the gasket; and then apply a nice thin even layer to the gasket.
When I used high temp grey; I think it said to take it to finger tight and then let sit an hour and then torque
When you torque, you’ll get a nice beautiful bead of rtv that rolls out the edges. Which is exactly what you want.“

I don’t think he has anything against 1282b getting used, but he felt this high temp grey was also a good option comparing the two.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

I see a lot of comments about this as a replacement for 1282b, but the instructions I was given did still include an RTV on both sides of this gasket. This gasket was intended to provide, as I understand, a little larger surface for the RTV to adhere to and hopefully last longer.
When asked if the gasket received the RTV on both sides of the gasket, this was his response…
“Yes both sides. I used high temp grey, and zero issues. Just ensure the following:
1. The surfaces are all perfectly clean, not even skin oil from a finger print. For this you can use brake clean etc. for the last wipe down.
2. Ensure you follow the directions to a T regarding the room temperature vulcanizing (rtv) instructions for its use.
3. When you apply the rtv, throw on some nitrile gloves, and using your finger to apply a nice thin even layer to the heat exchanger; then apply the gasket; and then apply a nice thin even layer to the gasket.
When I used high temp grey; I think it said to take it to finger tight and then let sit an hour and then torque
When you torque, you’ll get a nice beautiful bead of rtv that rolls out the edges. Which is exactly what you want.“

I don’t think he has anything against 1282b getting used, but he felt this high temp grey was also a good option comparing the two.

We purposely installed the J2hundy gasket dry. Testing! No issues so far. Let’s give it some miles.

Apple and oranges comparison as heat and pressure are a little different. It’s like the Toyota paper gasket for the rear differential 3rd member. I have always installed dry. I have hundreds of axles on the road, covering many countries, over 20 years, never had one leak. But FIPG has.

Anyway, I’m not for or against this product, I don’t care if it works or doesn’t. The customer is very capable themselves, and rack a lot of miles. We both are just curious. Let’s see. I love it when these opportunities present themselves.

 

[lx200inAR]

I'm about to button up the top of my engine. I don't think I've had a valley plate leak (at least not under my ownership). But thinking while this would be easy to replace about doing it now. I'm 90% certain I did a decent inspection of the areas under neath and didn't see any coolant in the grooves back when i first took it apart. But when I was looking this weekend there was some crusty pink stuff at the front under the oil separator. There's a good chance this was just from spilled coolant since I replaced every coolant hose when I did the water pump. I know the leak is typically in the back closer to the SAIS valves. Still think this might be good insurance to replace while I have everything off.

 

[2001LC]

We purposely installed the J2hundy gasket dry. Testing! No issues so far. Let’s give it some miles.

Apple and oranges comparison as heat and pressure are a little different. It’s like the Toyota paper gasket for the rear differential 3rd member. I have always installed dry. I have hundreds of axles on the road, covering many countries, over 20 years, never had one leak. But FIPG has.

Anyway, I’m not for or against this product, I don’t care if it works or doesn’t. The customer is very capable themselves, and rack a lot of miles. We both are just curious. Let’s see. I love it when these opportunities present themselves.

I do hope gasket works. I, prefer dry.

From what you're saying @Taco2Cruiser, my suspicions are correct. A bad design, that will leak again in time after reseal with 1282B.

 

[rexington14]

Here’s about the 30th coolant heat exchanger re-seal I’ve done. I like doing this job, I find it pretty easy and satisfying. I even plan to offer this service as a mobile job, when I’m stateside.

You'll have plenty of business with how common this is on the UR

 

[J2HundyOutfitters]

We purposely installed the J2hundy gasket dry. Testing! No issues so far. Let’s give it some miles.

Apple and oranges comparison as heat and pressure are a little different. It’s like the Toyota paper gasket for the rear differential 3rd member. I have always installed dry. I have hundreds of axles on the road, covering many countries, over 20 years, never had one leak. But FIPG has.

Anyway, I’m not for or against this product, I don’t care if it works or doesn’t. The customer is very capable themselves, and rack a lot of miles. We both are just curious. Let’s see. I love it when these opportunities present themselves.

Hey Taco2Cruiser,

Really appreciate you taking the time to put the Valley Guard Gasket to the test and share your experience. There’s no substitute for real-world miles and hands-on work, and your insight carries a lot of weight in this community.

You’ve been in this game long enough to see how some of Toyota’s adhesives and lubricants aren’t holding up like they used to. That’s exactly why I built this gasket—not to reinvent the wheel, but to address a problem I kept seeing. My dad was an old school muscle car guy and the best old school mechanic I’ve ever had the opportunity to learn from. The gasket kinda just came naturally with my background. Whether this test confirms it as a long-term solution or gives us something to improve, this kind of real-world feedback is invaluable. For better or worse, I’m just grateful someone is giving it a fair shake.

And we were intentional with the design—kept it just under 1/64” thick so the water pipe O-rings can seal properly without compromise. Small details like that matter, especially in a system that’s already known for being finicky.

Looking forward to seeing how it holds up over time. Respect for putting it through its paces, and for sharing the results so the whole community can benefit. Keep us posted.

-J2Hundy Outfitters

 

[lx200inAR]

So I ordered the gasket, but decided to take off the oil separator before I got it. I dont think I have a leak. There is only a slight amount of pink powder at the very front which is exactly where I would have e spilled coolant when pulling the hoses.

I guess the question remains on whether I should fix something that isnt broke or just go about my life and worry about it after it’s leaking.

Leaning towards leaving the gasket on the shelf for later.

 

[linuxgod]

So I ordered the gasket, but decided to take off the oil separator before I got it. I dont think I have a leak. There is only a slight amount of pink powder at the very front which is exactly where I would have e spilled coolant when pulling the hoses.

I guess the question remains on whether I should fix something that isnt broke or just go about my life and worry about it after it’s leaking.

Leaning towards leaving the gasket on the shelf for later.

View attachment 3850258

View attachment 3850259

I don't know your mileage but mine leaked around 140k. If you're low mileage I'd leave it, but given you have a 2010 I suspect you're higher mileage. The only other question is if a PO already did it (or were you the first owner?) It's pretty much guaranteed to leak at some point, but whether that's 100k miles or 250k miles I can't say.

 

[lx200inAR]

I don't know your mileage but mine leaked around 140k. If you're low mileage I'd leave it, but given you have a 2010 I suspect you're higher mileage. The only other question is if a PO already did it (or were you the first owner?) It's pretty much guaranteed to leak at some point, but whether that's 100k miles or 250k miles I can't say.

It has 145k miles. I’ve had truck for 4 years (bought at 100k). There was definitely work done to the cooling system before me, as it had an aftermarket radiator and a lot of pink stuff in the engine bay after I bought it.

So maybe I should do some PM.

 

[linuxgod]

It has 145k miles. I’ve had truck for 4 years (bought at 100k). There was definitely work done to the cooling system before me, as it had an aftermarket radiator and a lot of pink stuff in the engine bay after I bought it.

So maybe I should do some PM.

I don’t know how much effort it was to get to that point, but I do know my local dealer charged me $1300 in labor to replace mine. Yours may have been done, or you might be lucky. But if I was that far in and was doing it myself I’d highly consider it (especially if I was draining the cooling system anyway). If a dealer wanted another $1000 in labor to do it I’d pass since I know the whole repair is ~$1400

 

[lx200inAR]

Edit: the below was user error on my part. I used a torque wrench that was not accurate in the 15 ft lb range and caused me to over torque the bolts holding the plate on. I suspect I was hitting closer to 25 ft lbs instead of the 15-17 I was shooting for. I’m leaving the post just as a beware for future shade tree mechanics about the importance of having an accurate torque wrench for tedious jobs like this.

So I dug into this this weekend. After taking off the valley plate cover I think I definitely had a leak at the front. The crystallized coolant was dried up the side of the heat exchanger. Pretty sure that could only happen with a leak rather than spill.

I installed the J2Hundy gasket with not sealant. I believe this is what @Taco2Cruiser said he did, unless I completely misunderstood.

I went to put coolant in today and it did not even come close to holding coolant. To the point that I feel like I must have done something wrong. Is there some trick to lining up the cover so that it sits closer or something? I followed the cross bolting from the inside out as well as torqued in 2 stages to 18ft-lbs. I have a digital torque gauge adapter for this type of work. It seems like it’s reasonably accurate, but I guess I don’t know for sure.

Here was my prep for the install.

And then the gasket install:
Once I put the cover on I used a centering punch to make sure the holes in the gasket lined up with the bolt holes as closely as possible.

And then the aftermath.