I've joined the club - 2011 LC (white/tan)

[yonah]

Nice truck, best color combo available!

Note that those bug deflectors will prevent the front edge of the hood from getting cleaned, the edge will cake up the dirt and gunk and can cause rust on the front edge of the hood. If you run one, make sure to remove once a year or so and clean underneath. Ive removed many deflectors from old LCs, and the condition of the front edge of the hood underneath will make you gag.

Yep, those are factory Toyota flares. They have the same problem as all fender flares since the 80 series. Something about the paint bonding process to the plastic, they always fade and degrade faster than the paint on the vehicle.

Note that only the flares have clear coat. The rest of the vehicle does not have clear coat. That Toyota 202 white is a single stage paint, which I prefer, because when it starts to oxidize in a few years, a simple clay bar will shine it up again.

The good thing about the flares on the 100 and 200 series is they didnt put holes in the door to attach them like they did on the 80, so if you decide you don't like them, you can remove them without needing to fill up a bunch of holes.

@89cruiserfj62 - Thanks for the great info and advice regarding the paint and bug deflector. I'll heed your warning.

Also, I had no idea 202 paint has no clear coat. This makes me feel even better about my color choice. I've always liked tan interiors as well. The black/tan color combo is stellar.

@yonah was wondering if you'd ever start a thread!!!!

I like the scangauge job. Would be really nice to have when pulling a trailer.

@tabraha - Cheers! Life's been busy. It took me awhile to snap some photos worth posting. You'll like the ScanGauge II; it's a cool little gadget.

 

[yonah]

As previously mentioned. I made a few warning labels to hopefully prevent any overly industrious techs at the dealer from breaking my damper/blend door (whatever it's called) actuator arm.

I have the same exact year/color combo, even similar mileage.

I discovered on another thread that 2011 had the fewest number of imported LCs since 2000, maybe more years are included but that's as far back as the below chart goes:

 

[ntsaint]

My radiator has already been replaced at some point prior to purchase, so ya I guess it must have failed. No entry in the maintenance records, but it is not OEM.

I had the water pump, serp belt, pulleys, coolant changed out this summer, as preventive maintenance.

Don't know about the starter, it's been fine.

No leaks yet.

I did have a scare back in September with the transmission doing this weird stutter behavior on the 4-5 shift. Had the fluid and pan screen changed, it's been fine since.

My HVAC recirc damper is busted. Not looking forward to that fix.

Had the windshield replaced last week. The broken one they removed was not OEM, previous install was poorly done.

@KLF my HVAC recirc damper is busted too...dealer quoted me $3k. Which is nuts...I just paid it no mind and haven't thought much about it since it's wintertime.

Have you looked into any options for this yet? Summer here will be nasty without recirc.

 

[KLF]

No, I haven't even started on that yet, and that is a huge bummer. I have't needed it yet this winter so no loss. I'm not paying $3K to get that fixed, that's for sure. We will probably be replacing our Highlander this Spring, I may get an estimate from a dealer while I'm there.

Here's what mine looks like:

I might try epoxying it back together in place, it's worth a shot. I discovered last week when I was having the windshield replaced that you can pull the plastic cowl cover off and look right down on the cabin air filter, so maybe there's better access that way.

 

[Markuson]

No, I haven't even started on that yet, and that is a huge bummer. I have't needed it yet this winter so no loss. I'm not paying $3K to get that fixed, that's for sure. We will probably be replacing our Highlander this Spring, I may get an estimate from a dealer while I'm there.

Here's what mine looks like:

View attachment 1617435

I might try epoxying it back together in place, it's worth a shot. I discovered last week when I was having the windshield replaced that you can pull the plastic cowl cover off and look right down on the cabin air filter, so maybe there's better access that way.

Someone here successfully epoxied it themselves and posted details. Can’t remember but might have been @TonyP

 

[TonyP]

Someone here successfully epoxied it themselves and posted details. Can’t remember but might have been @TonyP

Yup, works fine now

 

[ntsaint]

Yup, works fine now

Awesome. Any hint on where to find details? Nowhere near a pc to do a proper search.

 

[TonyP]

Awesome. Any hint on where to find details? Nowhere near a pc to do a proper search.

I used this stuff. The syringe applicator is easier to get where you want it. Just make sure you don't glue the device so it doesn't rotate properly.

Loctite 0.47 fl. oz. Five Minute Instant Mix Epoxy-1365868 - The Home Depot

 

[Markuson]

I used this stuff. The syringe applicator is easier to get where you want it. Just make sure you don't glue the device so it doesn't rotate properly.

Loctite 0.47 fl. oz. Five Minute Instant Mix Epoxy-1365868 - The Home Depot

I was thinking someone posted a step-by-step of getting access to the part, etc. Maybe my brain is broken...

 

[yonah]

Someone here successfully epoxied it themselves and posted details. Can’t remember but might have been @TonyP

Awesome. Any hint on where to find details? Nowhere near a pc to do a proper search.

I was thinking someone posted a step-by-step of getting access to the part, etc. Maybe my brain is broken...

Is this the thread by chance?

Cabin Filter Change and the Recirculation Flap Issues FIXED

 

[Markuson]

Is this the thread by chance?

Cabin Filter Change and the Recirculation Flap Issues FIXED

That's it!

 

[ntsaint]

Is this the thread by chance?

Cabin Filter Change and the Recirculation Flap Issues FIXED

Awesome thx!

 

[yonah]

Installed both a BROG 18"x20" molle panel and headrest panel on the passenger side rear seat - thanks @indycole

I'm thinking about mirroring this set up on the other side of the rear seat. Like everything that comes out of BROG's shop, these products don't disappoint; the quality is top notch.

Still undecided on what pouches to affix to the panel. I need to lay all of my loose gear out and plan out that purchase.

 

[SQRRRL]

As previously mentioned. I made a few warning labels to hopefully prevent any overly industrious techs at the dealer from breaking my damper/blend door (whatever it's called) actuator arm.

View attachment 1616699



I discovered on another thread that 2011 had the fewest number of imported LCs since 2000, maybe more years are included but that's as far back as the below chart goes:

View attachment 1616706

I think this would mirror the housing market and the economy in general. No?

 

[yonah]

I think this would mirror the housing market and the economy in general. No?

[regarding US LC sales numbers] Yes, it would seem so, at least domestically.

I pulled the US unemployment data from the US Bureau of Labor Statistics from 2000-2017 and overlaid it with the US Land Cruiser annual sales from the same timeline (from Wikipedia - which cites Toyota's annual sales report press release for data):

Though it seems that US LC sales were already trending down well before 2011, it is important to note that The Great East Japan Earthquake (magnitude 9.0) rocked the country and damaged the ***ushima nuclear power plant in March of that year:

http://www.world-nuclear.org/inform...rity/safety-of-plants/***ushima-accident.aspx

One would think that, due to the scale and devastation of the event, it had some effect on Toyota's vehicle production output in Japan. I am not sure how close the LC production facility (Toyota City?) is to the ***ushima site - a quick Google search yields an almost eight hour drive (so not exactly close). If the disaster didn't reduce production, it could have hampered the exportation of completed vehicles if the port of embarkation were close to the site or if shipping resources were diverted to address the disaster. Either way, if you look at the below chart you'll notice a sharp drop in 2011 imports from May thru June - which would seem to correspond to the aftermath of the disaster; the US sales in April, 2011 were likely unaffected as these units were already in transit from Japan before the earthquake struck - this is speculation on my part. The import numbers do not fully recover until March of the following year.

(Toyota Land Cruiser Sales Figures -)

I think it's safe to say that the poor sales figures were a result of both the lackluster economy in the US and the domestic turmoil in Japan created by the ***ushima Daiichi nuclear disaster.

---

EDIT: the forum's software is inserting an asterisk in place of the first three letters ("F", "U", and "K") of ***ushima Daiichi. You'll have to edit the URLs when clicking the pasted links.

 

[SQRRRL]

Nice work. I just took a shot I’m the dark. Hahahahaha

 

[yonah]

First off, a big kudos to @NLScooby for helping out the community with this thread:

KDSS - UNfrozen! :) How I did it...

---

Tonight, after spending the previous seven days spraying Kroil, picking, and tapping - a beautiful thing happened...

I hit my KDSS adjustment screws with one final spray of Kroil - waited 30 minutes - and then broke out my 5mm socket and 1/2" socket wrench with a long handle for leverage...

Just a little bit of pressure and with a distinct metallic POP!, the frame side adjustment screw turned with very little effort. I moved to the outer screw and experienced the same result - whew... what a relief. I was so excited that I forgot to snap a picture of those beautiful threads before slathering them in anti-seize

I used my pick (to mark the screws for reference) and loosened them three turns each; then applied a liberal amount of anti-seize, tightened and then loosened both a few times, before finally torquing the fasteners down to the required 10ft lbs per the recommendation of @gaijin here:

Found it!

With all wheels on the ground, tighten the shutter valves with a 5mm hex wrench - Torque: 14 Nm (140 kgf/cm, 10 ft/lbf).

HTH

All buttoned up:

I'm glad to have this complete with the peace-of-mind that comes along with a KDSS that is adjustable should I add OEM front spacers, a lift, or have to correct "KDSS lean" down the road. After reading the above thread months ago (along with some horror stories about stripped screws, etc.), this job has been on my mind since buying my 200 last fall.

Thanks again to @NLScooby and @gaijin for their shared knowledge and to Kano for concocting Kroil - such a kick ass, quality product. That stuff is not cheap, but it's worth every penny. It melts rust like an Eddie Van Halen guitar solo melts faces:

 

[NLScooby]

First off, a big kudos to @NLScooby for helping out the community with this thread:

KDSS - UNfrozen! :) How I did it...

---

Tonight, after spending the previous seven days spraying Kroil, picking, and tapping - a beautiful thing happened...

I hit my KDSS adjustment screws with one final spray of Kroil - waited 30 minutes - and then broke out my 5mm socket and 1/2" socket wrench with a long handle for leverage...

View attachment 1692584

Just a little bit of pressure and with a distinct metallic POP!, the frame side adjustment screw turned with very little effort. I moved to the outer screw and experienced the same result - whew... what a relief. I was so excited that I forgot to snap a picture of those beautiful threads before slathering them in anti-seize

View attachment 1692580
View attachment 1692582

I used my pick (to mark the screws for reference) and loosened them three turns each; then applied a liberal amount of anti-seize, tightened and then loosened both a few times, before finally torquing the fasteners down to the required 10ft lbs per the recommendation of @gaijin here:



All buttoned up:
View attachment 1692583

I'm glad to have this complete with the peace-of-mind that comes along with a KDSS that is adjustable should I add OEM front spacers, a lift, or have to correct "KDSS lean" down the road. After reading the above thread months ago (along with some horror stories about stripped screws, etc.), this job has been on my mind since buying my 200 last fall.

Thanks again to @NLScooby and @gaijin for their shared knowledge and to Kano for concocting Kroil - such a kick ass, quality product. That stuff is not cheap, but it's worth every penny. It melts rust like an Eddie Van Halen guitar solo melts faces:

View attachment 1692585

Congratulations! I know exactly how you felt to hear and feel that little "release". It's all about patience, grasshopper.....(which I am known to have little of....)

 

[ryanCA]

Are you selling this 200 to buy a black 200 or will you be a TWO 200 family, like many of us here?

 

[yonah]

Are you selling this 200 to buy a black 200 or will you be a TWO 200 family, like many of us here?

I will be selling it.

I'm waiting to find the right 2013-2015.