Cabin Filter Change and the Recirculation Flap Issues FIXED (3 Viewers)

Joined
Dec 20, 2011
Messages
44
Been lurking here for some time now, but I figured it was finally time to contribute to the knowledge base.

I picked up a cherry 2008 200 Series a couple months ago and have been baselining it ever since. This past weekend the cabin filter was on my list, but I wasn't expecting it to be as challenging as it turned out.

As most probably know, the cabin filter is located in the glove box, and the HVAC system needs to be set to recirculate in order to remove and install the filter. Failure to set the system to recirculate keeps the accordion looking flap covering the filter and blocking access. If you follow the instructions it's a 2min job, but if you don't its still a 2.5min job as you just press the recirc button and expose the filter.

The problem arises when dealers, shops, or previous owners don't follow the instructions and and grab the recirc flap and force it up. Typically breaking the linkage or damaging the servo motor, and limiting the HVAC system to JUST recirculation, or JUST fresh supply. There are a handful of posts here on 'Mud detailing that exact issue.

And that's exactly what happened to me. However, I was able to fix the issue by taking apart the glove box and access the cabin filter and recirc flap door.

Start by checking the status of your recirc door. If its down, press the recirc button to cycle the system. If it's up already your 90% done with changing your cabin filter.

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If your cabin filter was stuck or appeared broken like mine, your next step is glove box removal. Start by removing the lower valence. It has just four clips on the bottom side. Also remove the side knee pad on the dash itself. It has four clips around the edges and just pops off.

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Next, undue the four bolts attaching the lower kick panel and knee airbag to the dash. There are two 10mm bolts on each side, and two clips on each edge.

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Joined
Dec 20, 2011
Messages
44
Once the airbag panel is out of the way, it should expose the two lower bolts for the glove box itself. There are two 10mm bolts securing the bottom of the glove box insert to the dash.

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Then there are two 10mm bolts securing the top of the glove box insert. They're hidden behind small covers, but they just pop right off. You should have four 10mm bolts removed from the glove box insert once done.

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Once all the bolts are removed, the whole glove box pulls right out and allows access to the recirc assembly.

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So now the interesting part. You'll have to determine if your recirc flap was actually broken, its jammed, or if the linkage was damaged. Or, yo could get lucky like me and realized that the previous owner forced the flap up and the linkage jut popped off in the process. To fix it I pulled the linkage away from the box, realigned the recirc flap into the correct position, and popped the linkage back into the flap. All fixed!

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And then you can replace your cabin filter. I replaced mine with a WIX 24511 charcoal treated filter to help with the local Tacoma Aroma. PNW residents I'm sure you know what I mean...

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Reassembly is the reverse process. I hope this helps someone in the future.
 
Joined
Feb 14, 2017
Messages
302
Location
Norcal
Awesome write up! I had the same problem but instead of taking all those panels apart. I ask my gf who had tiny hands to reach the servo lever from bottom of the glove compartment and reinsert it to the hole. I just flashed a light tru the hole from the filter cabin so she could see where to place it.
 

Yossarian

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Joined
Sep 9, 2006
Messages
639
Location
Denver
Great write up, thank you!

I had my 200 in the shop recently, and the tech came out and said I could use a new cabin air filter. I didn't ask that it be checked, now you have me wondering if he checked it in the proper manor.

Thanks in advance.
 
Joined
Oct 13, 2017
Messages
38
Location
Northern Illinois
Thanks for the pics and write-up ttrmike. This is on my to-do list on my '09 570. I'm guessing all those internals are the same once I get my dash trim off, so this will be a big help.
 
Joined
Aug 4, 2004
Messages
924
Location
Spokane WA, USA
I checked out my system, thanks so much for posting this. My Recirc door is broken at the hole where the linkage shaft goes in.

Here is the door lifted up and forward, showing the pin (retracted).

IMG_3540.jpg


Here is the linkage and pin on the outside of the assembly, pulled out entirely:

IMG_3544.jpg


Here is the inboard hinge pin:

IMG_3541.jpg


I have some questions.

1: I am pretty sure that the door hole is busted, it should be fully circular, no opening on one side, correct?

Here is the OP's picture, cropped for clarity:

Recirc Door Hinge-01I.jpg


2: The linkage pin appears to be OK but it is really hard to inspect closely. Can someone comment on that picture? Is there supposed to be a retaining catch?

3: The inboard hinge pin is OK, but I cannot see any way to remove the door from the blower housing without taking the whole darned thing out of the dash. I have tried carefully prying on the interfering part (to the right of the leaf) and there is no way I can flex the parts enough to get the pin to clear.

4: Can I buy just the door? All I see on a parts breakdown is the entire blower assembly:

Genuine OEM Blower Motor & Fan Parts for 2013 Toyota Land Cruiser Base - Olathe Toyota Parts Center

5: How hard is it to remove the entire assembly? Can somebody please post the Service Manual pages for this? If it is reasonably painless I guess I will probably end up removing it for a better look.... ;(

I am so mad, my truck had a 90 day warranty when I bought it in May 2017, and I had no idea this door was Tango Uniform....

Please help, all comments are most welcome.

John Davies
Spokane WA
 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 5, 2016
Messages
216
Location
Bay Area, CA
I checked out my system, thanks so much for posting this. My Recirc door is broken at the hole where the linkage shaft goes in.

Here is the door lifted up and forward, showing the pin (retracted).

View attachment 1571050

Here is the linkage and pin on the outside of the assembly, pulled out entirely:

View attachment 1571051

Here is the inboard hinge pin:

View attachment 1571052

I have some questions.

1: I am pretty sure that the door hole is busted, it should be fully circular, no opening on one side, correct?

Here is the OP's picture, cropped for clarity:

View attachment 1571056

2: The linkage pin appears to be OK but it is really hard to inspect closely. Can someone comment on that picture? Is there supposed to be a retaining catch?

3: The inboard hinge pin is OK, but I cannot see any way to remove the door from the blower housing without taking the whole darned thing out of the dash. I have tried carefully prying on the interfering part (to the right of the leaf) and there is no way I can flex the parts enough to get the pin to clear.

4: Can I buy just the door? All I see on a parts breakdown is the entire blower assembly:

Genuine OEM Blower Motor & Fan Parts for 2013 Toyota Land Cruiser Base - Olathe Toyota Parts Center

5: How hard is it to remove the entire assembly? Can somebody please post the Service Manual pages for this? If it is reasonably painless I guess I will probably end up removing it for a better look.... ;(

I am so mad, my truck had a 90 day warranty when I bought it in May 2017, and I had no idea this door was Tango Uniform....

Please help, all comments are most welcome.

John Davies
Spokane WA

Bumping this for an answer.
 
Joined
Dec 18, 2017
Messages
242
Location
California
Quick question (great write up btw)
Does the filter basket just sits there or does it secure in somehow?
 
Joined
Sep 18, 2016
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38
Location
Manassas, VA
Great write up thank you for taking the time and including the photos.
When I use the heater/ac in my 08’LC I get a sound coming from the “glove box area” that just doesn’t sound right. It’s almost like the blower motor or recir motor(?) is going out. It’s about 3 times as loud as I think a heater should sound. It’s there about 80% of the time... do you guys think I’m having linkage issues stated above? Or possibly a bad blower motor?
Thank you
 
Joined
Aug 2, 2015
Messages
379
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Calling-in from east of the Rockies
Do any of you gents simply lock your glove box before taking the vehicle in for service? This seems like the easiest way to prevent a tech from tampering with the recirculation door.

I made a label for mine to dummy proof the process (if the tech takes the time to read the label that is..). I dropped my LC off at the dealer today for an oil change and completely forgot to lock the glovebox - luckily the tech did the right thing.
 
Joined
Sep 18, 2015
Messages
158
Location
Chicago
My flap is totally 100% free-floating, clearly not connected on either side, ha. I manually moved it to the fresh-air position so that the car would not be a total hazard fogging up all winter. What are the chances that mine is not broken and merely just dislocated? Even though the car is under warranty I'd still rather do anything than leave it at a Toyota dealer.
 
Joined
Feb 14, 2017
Messages
302
Location
Norcal
My flap is totally 100% free-floating, clearly not connected on either side, ha. I manually moved it to the fresh-air position so that the car would not be a total hazard fogging up all winter. What are the chances that mine is not broken and merely just dislocated? Even though the car is under warranty I'd still rather do anything than leave it at a Toyota dealer.

Lol if it’s under warranty just show them that the flap isn’t working. I’m sure they will fix it. As much as we bash on dealerships, they have some competent technicians that actually know what they r doing. Just get it fix before u r left with the bill later when u no longer have warranty.
 

KLF

Frame waxer
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Joined
Apr 5, 2003
Messages
9,045
Location
Southern NH
My flap is totally 100% free-floating, clearly not connected on either side, ha. I manually moved it to the fresh-air position so that the car would not be a total hazard fogging up all winter. What are the chances that mine is not broken and merely just dislocated? Even though the car is under warranty I'd still rather do anything than leave it at a Toyota dealer.

I would pull the glove box and other associated dash parts to see what is broken, use the beginning of this thread as a guide. If it's a simple matter of popping the actuator back on, I would fix it and put it back together, content to have avoided the whole dealership service fight.

But if it is broken and needs parts, take photos so you document the before, then take it in and tell them it is not working and what it needs to get it fixed, in writing. Then when you get it back, look at how they fixed it, don't be surprised if it's held back together with a paper clip and duct tape when they find out how much it will cost them to repair it properly.

Good luck.
 
Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Messages
135
Location
NW Arkansas
Thanks for the write up. I did this today and found that my linkage was simply popped off. Got lucky. Now to track down my strange intermittent cruise control issue... Sometimes it won't let me engage it (cruise light never goes on), sometimes it does. Depends on how it is feeling.
 

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