Builds It was the Prospector's Idea

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Brake dancing. (Olympic Nod)

New booster helped. It was definitely bad. Bled my brakes 'cause all the fluid was Grade-A nasty. (I probably should've done that a few years back). That got me a soft pedal that got firmer after driving around. Not good. I figured since the brake fluid was so bad and had crunchies in there, it had to be a master cylinder issue. As far as I could tell, our master was original equipment. So out with the old, in with the new. Re-bled all the lines. Same soft pedal getting firmer after driving.

That got me thinking about the wheel cylinders. (I probably should've started there). They all looked good last time I was in there. But at least half have been completely submerged in the last year or so too. :hillbilly: I ended up finding three up front that were having trouble retracting after the brake was applied. You can see it in the second photo. All the boots and rubber seals looked good so I just cleaned with brake cleaner and fine emery cloth, smeared on some brake lube and re-installed. Much better. Still some tweaking to do on the brake shoe adjustment to dial the pedal in, but all-in-all it's a big improvement.

Master cylinder from @cruiseroutfit is a real nice unit. They carry wheel cylinders and rebuild kits too. If my quick cleaning doesn't work, I'll probably just order 4 new wheel cylinders for the front and rebuild the others and keep for spares.

IMG_6620.jpeg


IMG_6645.jpeg



IMG_6647.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Usually if the brakes start getting firmer while driving and the booster or m/c has been replaced is an indication that the rod between the booster and m/c needs to be adjusted. If it's to long, then it's putting pressure on the m/c and it incrementally builds pressure in the system. There's a tool available at most a/p stores to aid in the adjustment.
 
pb4ugo said:
Usually if the brakes start getting firmer while driving and the booster or m/c has been replaced is an indication that the rod between the booster and m/c needs to be adjusted. If it's to long, then it's putting pressure on the m/c and it incrementally builds pressure in the system. There's a tool available at most a/p stores to aid in the adjustment.
Click to expand...
Thank you!
The pushrod was indeed too long. I adjusted it a few mm shorter and problem is gone. I had to readjust the front shoes a bunch more since the pressure in the master was preventing a good shoe adjustment. So much better now.
 
The Flukes of Hazard

I noticed my brake lights weren't working the other day. Can't say I remember the last time I checked if they were working. Hazard lights have never worked, but I got running lights and turn signals at all 4 corners since day one of our ownership.

I first looked at the grounds on the back tail light housings. Our housings are rusty and bad so I sanded some rusty bolts/screws and verified with the multimeter that we had a good ground for both of them. Still no brake lights. Cleaned up some wiring connectors between the two tail lights that the PO had spliced in. Still no brake lights.

Next I went after the brake light switch on the brake pedal. Multimeter showed it was good for the green terminals, but bad for the red terminals. I replaced the switch with an aftermarket one and still no brake lights. In hindsight, I think the switch was probably still ok. The green wires go to the brake lights. The red wires are for the brake pressure switches on the master, which on our '71 aren't wired up to anything.

Searched on MUD and found the wiring for brakes goes through the turn signal switch and hazard switch too. I figured I fiddle with the hazard switch first since it seemed easier. Found that hazard light fuse under the cowl and it was bad. The new fuse got me blinkers at 3 corners! Next I removed the hazard switch. Small set screw in the nob to release the nob. Then use snap ring pliers on the bezel nut to remove the switch. Be careful when opening up the switch as there are springs inside. Cleaned up the contacts with a some steel wool. And now I have 4 working hazard blinky lights and brake lights! Heck yeah!

The hazard lights work off hot power (no key needed). My brake lights also come on without the key. And that makes me think that I haven't had functioning brake lights in a long time. Safety third. :hillbilly:

IMG_7177.jpeg


IMG_7181.jpeg


IMG_7182.jpeg
 
Relic Run

The Prospector and I joined up with other Cruiserheads for a Fall Relic Run up to Whitetail Reservoir. A few old Toyotas and a few new. Rocks, mud, sand, highway. This run had it all. Thanks @ttFJC and @YotaPaullie for the pics!

DSC_0517.JPG


DSC_0627.jpg



IMG_5796.jpeg



IMG_5819.jpeg
 
Getting enough fiber

I need some help with this top. I was planning to just repair the gutters but I see more problems.

The gutters need some self leveling seam sealer. Anyone have recommendations on what type of sealer and what prep has to be done to the gutters? Also, I have some tiny "holes" in the fiberglass that don't go all the way through. What's the best way to seal/repair those? Should I just dab in some of the seam sealer? And then are the larger patches big enough to need a fiberglass patch or can I dab sealer in those too?

Wondering if I have I found the original color under the blue? Looks more creamy and not really white. But definitely lighter than the Coronado Beige. I don't know if I want to repaint the top or not. The blue paint is pretty thin and coming off well with a razor blade and scotchbrite pad.

IMG_7542.jpg


IMG_7531.jpg


IMG_7543.jpg


IMG_7539.jpg
 
90WT said:
Getting enough fiber

I need some help with this top. I was planning to just repair the gutters but I see more problems.

The gutters need some self leveling seam sealer. Anyone have recommendations on what type of sealer and what prep has to be done to the gutters? Also, I have some tiny "holes" in the fiberglass that don't go all the way through. What's the best way to seal/repair those? Should I just dab in some of the seam sealer? And then are the larger patches big enough to need a fiberglass patch or can I dab sealer in those too?

Wondering if I have I found the original color under the blue? Looks more creamy and not really white. But definitely lighter than the Coronado Beige. I don't know if I want to repaint the top or not. The blue paint is pretty thin and coming off well with a razor blade and scotchbrite pad.

View attachment 3803856

View attachment 3803857

View attachment 3803858

View attachment 3803863
Click to expand...
Im about to patch some holes and low spots in mine with Total Boat two part epoxy fairing compound, then will prime and paint over it. I looked at thixio but the holes are small enough I don't think I want the thickened stuff
 
Matt, looks like you are loosing some gel coat? I wouldn't smear sealer on it. I am sure there is some kind of 3M sealer that would self level. I'll let the more experienced guys chime in. I am a huge fan of Sika-flex but there may be a much more tried and true method. You do want something that will accept paint once on.

Bondo (I am sure there are better options) makes a fiber glass filler, that might be what you need for some of the holes. Tape the backside and fill it in, sand flush, rinse, repeat.
 
That epoxy fairing compound looks perfect for the patches I need. There aren't any holes that go all the way through the roof. I guess I should call them chips maybe?

For the gutters, can I just apply the self-leveling seam sealer right over what I've got? I don't know what good vs bad looks like. Is what I have really bad? Do I need to fix something before I apply the seam sealer?
 
90WT said:
That epoxy fairing compound looks perfect for the patches I need. There aren't any holes that go all the way through the roof. I guess I should call them chips maybe?

For the gutters, can I just apply the self-leveling seam sealer right over what I've got? I don't know what good vs bad looks like. Is what I have really bad? Do I need to fix something before I apply the seam sealer?
Click to expand...
You’ll want to remove as close to all of what is in the gutters as possible before putting new in. It’s a sucky job but necessary.
 
this is really frustating but i don't remember what i used. my roof looked very similar only worse in spots. i had to remove the gutters and do some fiberglass repair also. i definetley wouldn't use any seam sealer other than in the gutters. check out the stuff that ryanwk628 mentioned as that sounds like it would be easier to use. do a search on fiberglass repair and you'll find what you need

​

 
Sounds like I need to clean the gutters some more for the seam sealer and also to make sure there's no holes in the fiberglass there. I'm hoping not to remove the top. I know if I take off the top, I'll take off the sides. If I take off the sides...
 
elkun1 said:
this is really frustating but i don't remember what i used. my roof looked very similar only worse in spots. i had to remove the gutters and do some fiberglass repair also. i definetley wouldn't use any seam sealer other than in the gutters. check out the stuff that ryanwk628 mentioned as that sounds like it would be easier to use. do a search on fiberglass repair and you'll find what you need

​

Click to expand...
My thought was that I'm not looking to add stringers or strengthen a transom, so no need for the hassle of polyester resin with wax or MEK. Epoxy is easier and probably stronger. Then just said, prime and paint
 
ryanwk628 said:
How much did you end up needing?
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure I used 2. Hopefully I posted something up in my build thread, I might go back and look.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

gvtxcruiser
FJ43 Purchase Idea
Replies
5
Views
347
Living in the Past
Living in the Past
dplenty99
My license plate light was disconnected when I bought the 40....
Replies
4
Views
154
pb4ugo
pb4ugo
TreadingLight
65 FJ40 - Doing it the Easy Way
Replies
19
Views
2K
TreadingLight
TreadingLight
pbgbottle
Some history here ,Before there was Aqualu. There was FabTech from Kelowna Canada same town. Hmm.
Replies
1
Views
542
pbgbottle
pbgbottle

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom