Is this salvageable? (Rust)

[Shickalee]

Lmao. Yeah I don't have the tolls and man power to take the whole tub off and I don't own a sand blaster. I was thinking more of rust converter and rattle can paint haha

This is exactly the process for using Ospho. Wire brush the loose rust, spray on Ospho, wait 24hrs, then prime and paint. Ospho has long track record for rust treatment in the auto industry. From what I have read Jasco is a very similar product and process.

Ospho

The Ospho Solution..(rust removal) - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board

 

[deanfj40]

I've used the jasco stuff inside doors and here and there and it works great. You don't really want to get it on anything else besides the rust including you. It is nasty stuff. I think the directions say wait 24 hours then prime and paint. If you want to smooth everything out (you say bumpy.. do you mean pitting?) Bubbles or bumps typically mean there is more rust and you gotta keep digging. If you're talking about the pitting left over after you remove the rust you can use body filler i guess... Not sure how that would hold up though - it might crack easily if you put something in the back of your truck... I've seen some filler used in beds of classic cars/trucks that are used for show cars to make them absolutely perfect but is that really what you need/want? you're talking about a lot of filler and a lot of sanding.

so to answer your question more concisely.
converter, prime, filler, prime, paint (lots of sanding between steps)

That's the answer I've been waiting for . The bottle of jasco rust converter says "prep and primer" so do I still have to add primer before painting?
And yes there's alot of pitting in the rear tub.

 

[honk]

... yes there's alot of pitting in the rear tub.

....No Dean, that's not a lot of rust or pitting in the rear tub. It's minor if compared to what a lot of guys here have dealt or drive around with so it still comes down to you deciding what you want or can afford the truck to be. Chances are you'll move on to another hobby before that floor becomes a functional issue (meaning when things fall through the holes and there's not enough good steel to support a patch anymore.

 

[120mm]

x1000 to honk.

If you think that's a lot of pitting, you've obviously never lived in a rust-belt state.

 

[Shickalee]

x1000 to honk.

If you think that's a lot of pitting, you've obviously never lived in a rust-belt state.

In midwest/rust belt, we call that a clean tub.

 

[antFJ]

That's the answer I've been waiting for . The bottle of jasco rust converter says "prep and primer" so do I still have to add primer before painting?
And yes there's alot of pitting in the rear tub.

generally you always want to prime.. plus you are going to need to sand the surrounding good paint with 400-600 grit and then prime overlapping slightly on the good paint. not only will that seal up everything and help prevent future rust but it will help the top coat blend in. Then you can take your rattle can and spray the entire floor on the new primer and sanded "good paint."

(the more correct way to do what you are doing would be to strip the entire floor to bare metal. treat the areas that need to be treated with jasco... then prime the entire floor and then paint... but you can get away with what you are doing for now without any ill effects)

 

[brian]

Where the metal is pitted some after clean-up but still thick enough to keep, has anybody tried lead instead of bondo? I'm told lead adds structure and is preferable to bondo. I don't recall seeing anything in the forums on this and believe it's a dying skill.

 

[luvdamud]

View attachment 1356621

View attachment 1356622

Now that's what I'm talking about Nice work!!

Question: Will you use a file to smooth out the lead initially, instead of sandpaper? I suspect you wouldn't want to use a grinder.

 

[deanfj40]

Driver side floor

Passenger side floor

Soi was sanding some of the rust away and noticed that there's rust under paint that looks good still, so I'm going to strip the pain and then add rust converter. Final paint color would be a forest green.
I also need to replace the passenger side floor panel since there are holes in it.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Where the metal is pitted some after clean-up but still thick enough to keep, has anybody tried lead instead of bondo? I'm told lead adds structure and is preferable to bondo. I don't recall seeing anything in the forums on this and believe it's a dying skill.

the problem with lead is the lead....

Bill Hines was 5-9, sure he smoked, but the lead made him what was in this picture....

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

ironically, he consider bondo poison.... he lived to 94, so there is that too

 

[deanfj40]

So for the past couple days I've been trying to strip off the old paint in the tub. (I must have bought the worst paint stripper on the market) after reapplying the stripper 4 times there's still paint . So I started to grind away rust and paint with a steel wire wheel and uncovered a bunch of rust holes Also the pits are deeper than expected. I'm thinking of just replacing the rear tub panel. I could get a 4x8 sheet of metal for $50 and just weld it in so I don't have to deal with it later. In total there are 12 holes that have been drilled by the PO and about 6 more rust holes

Watch in HD to be able to see the Dept of the pits

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

you're in Kalifornia... you don't get aircraft stripper.... that's the good stuff. Be careful, though, grinding on stuff you applied stripper to - you can aerosolize the stripper by grinding and suck it into your lungs, not good.

 

[deanfj40]

you're in Kalifornia... you don't get aircraft stripper.... that's the good stuff. Be careful, though, grinding on stuff you applied stripper to - you can aerosolize the stripper by grinding and suck it into your lungs, not good.

All the good stuff is banned here if it helps any I was wearing a mask.
I'm going to check home depot tomorrow, hopefully they have done better stuff

 

[MOTOV8R]

Some of the typical real problem areas look pretty good on your floor. The seams along the wheel wells, the edge along the rear channel. I would try welding up the holes and see what you think. I wouldn't recommend a grinder you will lose too much metal. Get one of the 3M paint stripping wheels. If it's available in CA, get a gallon of the etch and prep I linked to earlier, it's only $16/gal. It will convert the rust. Let it set for 15 min or so then write brush it. Then repeat that a few times.

 

[brian]

I'm thinking of just replacing the rear tub panel. I could get a 4x8 sheet of metal for $50 and just weld it in so I don't have to deal with it later. In total there are 12 holes that have been drilled by the PO and about 6 more rust holes

so you stripped original finish off from a tub that really is in very good shape. and you now want to dick the whole thing up, by replacing the bed pan with a piece of sheet metal?

 

[winnie]

in my opinion, stick to your original plan ... i.e. rust converter, prime, rattle can ... won't take much to weld in the holes ... in your climate, it will last a long time ... at some point in the future when you have the time/resources, cut the old rear floor out and have new one welded in ... it will look a lot better than a piece of sheet metal tacked over the existing floor ...

 

[120mm]

so you stripped original finish off from a tub that really is in very good shape. and you now want to dick the whole thing up, by replacing the bed pan with a piece of sheet metal?

This is the part when the new pilot thinks he CAN turn back to the runway, when the engine fails on take off.

Saw it coming from a mile away.

 

[deanfj40]

This is the part when the new pilot thinks he CAN turn back to the runway, when the engine fails on take off.

Saw it coming from a mile away.

I already stripped the old paint off from the inside. No point in keeping it if I'm going to change the color and There's hundreds of rusted scratches all over the inside of the truck. Rust converter would only stick to the spots that are rusted. I can't just brush the whole inside of the truck with rust converter or else the paint won't stick. How do I go about that then?

 

[gator25]

I think if I had gone this far I'd cut it out and replace it, BUT......if it looks like its more then you want to tackle right now. Just slap some sort of converter on it, spray it with rattle can and throw a mat over it. But for gawd sake don't fiberglass it or put bed liner or weld in sheet metal if you ever want to go back and do it correctly. That's just my .02.

Has far as those rusted scratches I'd just sand them down and seal it up with rattle can.