I saw this video, the car has a 6.0 LS. What he does is drop the pan, then the crank journals, he then measures with plastigauge. He eventually taps the BEB's out and replaced them with new sized after polishing the crank. Can this be done on a 1997 Land Cruiser or do they not roll out?
Is it possible to "roll in" bottom end bearings on a 1fz-fe?
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mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Yes, this can be done with 1fz-fe
Tough to do without a lift.
You want to thoroughly degrease and issue wash underneath before you try to do this.
Seriously consider pulling the engine out if you have the shop space
Tough to do without a lift.
You want to thoroughly degrease and issue wash underneath before you try to do this.
Seriously consider pulling the engine out if you have the shop space
powderpig
SILVER Star
Done it a couple of times. I have seen write up's on at least one if not 2 people cutting out the round frame support under the oIl pan. Then welding it back in.
My self, I have removed the engine motor mount lower nuts, used a 2x4 with a v notch to put on the crank pulley to push up the engine enough to
remove the aluminum upper oil pan(after removing the metal lower pan), with a floor jack, if on the floor. If on a lift, I use a screw jack. Once this is removed lower the engine back down on the motor mounts. Then the crank and rod bearings can be spun in if you have the need. All depend if you need to do only the Rods and mains, if you need more work, as suggested pull the engine to do more. Once the pans are removed, it is way eaiser to clean part very clean.
but there are more than one way to do about any thing mechanical.
Cheers.
My self, I have removed the engine motor mount lower nuts, used a 2x4 with a v notch to put on the crank pulley to push up the engine enough to
remove the aluminum upper oil pan(after removing the metal lower pan), with a floor jack, if on the floor. If on a lift, I use a screw jack. Once this is removed lower the engine back down on the motor mounts. Then the crank and rod bearings can be spun in if you have the need. All depend if you need to do only the Rods and mains, if you need more work, as suggested pull the engine to do more. Once the pans are removed, it is way eaiser to clean part very clean.
but there are more than one way to do about any thing mechanical.
Cheers.
Yes and No.
The problem is you cant just drop the number 1 oil pan. You have to lift the engine a few inches in order to drop it and then its a job you don't want to do on your back. Then putting both pans back correctly with FIPG either on your back or standing is again not fun.
It's actually easier to just pull the engine.
The problem is you cant just drop the number 1 oil pan. You have to lift the engine a few inches in order to drop it and then its a job you don't want to do on your back. Then putting both pans back correctly with FIPG either on your back or standing is again not fun.
It's actually easier to just pull the engine.
I agree, re: just easier to pull the engine.
Also, it's much easier to do a quality job overall. And, other things that may be "borderline" are easier as well - the list of things to do is long.
I'm a simpleton, but if main bearings on a 1FZ-FE are shot, what about pistons & rings, etc? They can't be looking too great either.
To me pulling isn't that tough, and you get that time back in how easy all the work is to do with the engine on a stand.
Happy new year everyone!
Done it a few times on my back, no big deal. No way I’d pull the engine.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I would have said the same in the past.
Having pulled and replaced these engines a few times now, I know the drill. I'd lean towards pulling it.
For a first time, it'll take a lot longer than it does if you've done it once or twice before. I've also stripped the bottom end of an 1fz-fe in the vehicle, in that case, the engine ultimately had to be removed, so never got a far as reassembly from below.
I'd be much more confident the job was done right if the engine was out vs trying to do it from underneath.
To much risk of dirt contamination, accidentally marring a journal, and a pain to torque stuff correctly from underneath.
I don’t see rolling in mains and connecting rod bearings much more that an oil pan seal.
I’ve done a bunch of oil pan jobs on my back and on higher mileage trucks I’d include connecting rod bearings.
But I was using clevite bearings and didn’t get into the minutia of plasti gauge and block markings.
Worst cas was both mains and connecting rod bearing with light scoring on the crank. Took some fine sandpaper to the crank and rolled in clevites. It was done as a temp job until he could figure out what to do. Been more than 10 years and the guy drives it all over the place.
I’ve done a bunch of oil pan jobs on my back and on higher mileage trucks I’d include connecting rod bearings.
But I was using clevite bearings and didn’t get into the minutia of plasti gauge and block markings.
Worst cas was both mains and connecting rod bearing with light scoring on the crank. Took some fine sandpaper to the crank and rolled in clevites. It was done as a temp job until he could figure out what to do. Been more than 10 years and the guy drives it all over the place.
