Is it possible to remove TRE's without destroying them? (1 Viewer)

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MDarius

MDarius

I break stuff.
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It's all in the title.

I removed the steering gear from 92 to rebuild it and I ripped up the boot on the TRE separating it from the pitman arm. I have a good TRE on my donor 95, but I don't know if it can be removed without ripping up the boot as well. I've tried the puller tool and I just can't get it to work. Like this:
1594826115488.png


I've only been able to do it with a pickle fork and a BFE.
This tool looks gentler, but is it effective, or do you have another way?
1594826222248.png
 
I also tried this. He makes it look cool, but either I didn't do it right or it's easier on that little car than it is on my cruiser.

 
The first picture is a pitman arm puller. Used to pull the pitman arm off the steering gear shaft. I have always used this (below) to get the joints seperated with minimal destruction of the boot. Back the castle nut off about where the nut is about to fall off the TRE . It will help keep the puller from popping out, and won't slide off

!
 
Last edited:
MDarius said:
It's all in the title.

I removed the steering gear from 92 to rebuild it and I ripped up the boot on the TRE separating it from the pitman arm. I have a good TRE on my donor 95, but I don't know if it can be removed without ripping up the boot as well. I've tried the puller tool and I just can't get it to work. Like this:
View attachment 2372595

I've only been able to do it with a pickle fork and a BFE.
This tool looks gentler, but is it effective, or do you have another way?
View attachment 2372596
Click to expand...
Yes. The tool in the first pic is correct, but you MUST have the correct size. You tighten it, then hit the nut end of the clamp with a BFH, then tighten more, then hit again, lather, rinse, repeat.

The second pic is a Ball Joint Remover and is incorrect for this application.

I have had not luck with the pickle fork, and it DESTROYS the boots.

Also, hit the steering arm on the TOP to get it to release while you have tension on the tool. That will drive the arm away from the TRE and cause them to come apart.

I have tried the 2 jaw puller, but I either don't have enough room above or below or the jaws are too thick and still cut the boot or slip off.
 
big hammer on the side of the housing it will pop off

 
I picked up a tie rod end puller like the one linked above at NAPA. I've had excellent success with it on any and all tierods on my 40, 60, 80 and T100. It will also do the ball joints on my T100. You just have to work it under the boot carefully, but it usually does not take much to get it on there without any damage to the boots. Pickle forks are a joke, never work well and totally destroy everything. The puller is key, costs a little but well worth it.

Tapping the outside part of the rod and or puller has helped stubborn ones pop for me. I also use the air impact gun on it, rattle for a second, no pop, tap it with a hammer, then rattle again they usually explode right off.

I have also started putting a dab of anti-seize on the taper when I go back together. Maybe that is not recommended or proper, but it should help later to separate.
 
MoCoNative said:
I picked up a tie rod end puller like the one linked above at NAPA. I've had excellent success with it on any and all tierods on my 40, 60, 80 and T100. It will also do the ball joints on my T100. You just have to work it under the boot carefully, but it usually does not take much to get it on there without any damage to the boots. Pickle forks are a joke, never work well and totally destroy everything. The puller is key, costs a little but well worth it.

Tapping the outside part of the rod and or puller has helped stubborn ones pop for me. I also use the air impact gun on it, rattle for a second, no pop, tap it with a hammer, then rattle again they usually explode right off.

I have also started putting a dab of anti-seize on the taper when I go back together. Maybe that is not recommended or proper, but it should help later to separate.
Click to expand...

Yeah! How exactly does anti-seize work, anyway? I was wondering about that last night. If I put it on a bolt that is supposed to be torqued to a certain spec, how does that bolt just not wiggle loose with anti-seize on it? I want my bolts to grip, not slip around, all lubed up. Maybe a question for a different thread...
 
I'm going to reply to my own post. Found this gem in the back alley's of Mud.

forum.ih8mud.com

Anti-seize and over torquing bolts

Full disclosure before I begin. . . I work for Loctite. There are two main points in this thread. Regarding the original point of removability, there is only one reason bolts that are properly installed become difficult to remove later on and that is rust. I know it's hard for most people to...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com

I also found this reference online, which supports the conversation from 2012-2013.

 
I use this guy every time. I have buggered a boot here and there, but the vast majority of the time it comes off nice and clean. Perfect for drag link ends and TREs. I usually use this in conjunction with my air impact, which they advise against, but it always works quick!

1594826222248-png.2372596
 
Thats why I mentioned I wasn't sure just how correct it was. I don't coat the tapered part, nor do I put any on the threads. I realize the torque issue you are creating. In the case of the tapered part of the tie rod I only put a dab on it, like in one spot. I figure that small amount will squish around most the circumference, but no goo out all over. It will reduce the likelyhood that all surfaces of the taper develop a binding rust. If only part of it rusts, they seem more willing to pop out. The variable here, is you are torquing the nut down and forcing the taper into a matching hole. The interaction needs to be tight. Does anti-seize allow it to slip further than it should? Don't know. Does anti-seize possibly allow to torque falsely and then wobble or spin in the taper? Don't know, but so far it has helped mine come apart reliably, and I've never had one seem to loosen up or cause me trouble.

I do the same on the cone washers of the knuckle/steering arms and the driveplate/hub studs. Just a dab, no, more like a gentle brush, just to add some color, no goobers, not dripping, just a smear. For one, I hate getting that s*** on me, the silver stuff is like glitter, next thing you know it is on your face, your pants, the steering wheel, your wife's furniture and you don't even know you touched it. I also hate to see it all gooed out or flung off the lug nuts on the rim and stuff. So yes, just a dab and I've had the cone washers pop right out with minimal effort.
 
forum.ih8mud.com

Frustration with getting tie-rod ends to come out

Maybe I'm just a wuss (sic!) but i was trying to get the tie-rod ends to come free on the front steering rod (going from pitman arm to LHS swivel hub arm) however I baulked after getting a bit too jiggy with my nice Hazet tool ball joint tool. Will have a go again soon. Just wondering where...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
 
Do not put anti seize on any tapered tie rod or cone washer. They are all supposed to be dry.
 
cjmoon said:
big hammer on the side of the housing it will pop off

Click to expand...

I can attest that this almost always works. I always feel horribly guilty swinging a BFH at my vehicle, but it beats the cacophony of of savage language that my neighbors, children, wife and God get to witness with the alternative.
 
landtank said:
This is what I’ve used for years without issue

View attachment 2373178
Click to expand...

I have a pickle-fork that is sized right for them, but I have that same tool as Rick - that & a wave from a MAP bottle/torch is as far as I had to go.

Plus, saving old joints really means you’re running decades old rubber boots & grease - not that they aren’t good, but the ozone does eat the boots.

:meh: — great trail spares & isolating problems, but I’d want fresh boots for a DD’er.
 
LINUS said:
I have a pickle-fork that is sized right for them, but I have that same tool as Rick - that & a wave from a MAP bottle/torch is as far as I had to go.

Plus, saving old joints really means you’re running decades old rubber boots & grease - not that they aren’t good, but the ozone does eat the boots.

:meh: — great trail spares & isolating problems, but I’d want fresh boots for a DD’er.
Click to expand...

I know. In this case I ruined the boot when I removed the steering gear. I have a known good tie rod on my parts truck, and I'm planning a trip this weekend. It's a quick solution, then trail spares.
 
Another vote for these:
1594879686849.png

I got mine as a free loan-a-tool from autozone.

But I have to wonder, how are you guys unthreading them? I searched on it back when I did mine but everyone was having trouble getting them out of the steering arms, not unthreading them. At first I just put a wrench on the flattened area before the ball joint, but all my might with a foot on a 2 foot cheater bar couldn't get it off.
I literally had to weld a nut on the TRE, sit a 450 ft-lb impact on it for a good couple minutes, heat it with a torch for 5 minutes, more impact, bang on the tube with a hammer where it's threaded, more impact, try and use a wedge to split the threaded area to free it, more impact, heat it more, and eventually it started spinning out. Was a real challenge, about 95% of the job while getting them out of the steering arm was maybe 5% of the job and took no time at all. I had been spraying it with penetrating oil for a bout a week before I started, making sure to get the line where it splits to get as far back as possible.

There was some rust on the threads but it wasn't bad, and it shouldn't have been that hard I think. (as you can see my truck is fairly rust free)

And yes I did take off the band clamps lol.
1594880312190.png
 
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