Speaking of Slee's new bushings, Rick what's the status of the new templates?
My 
was asking about 'em the other day.
My was asking about 'em the other day.
Ironman Lift
- Thread starter Snacktime
- Start date
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Speaking of Slee's new bushings, Rick what's the status of the new templates?
I drew up the template and it didn't align as well as I wanted it to. I revised the drawing and I just need a machine to cut them out on.
I'm hoping to get on a machine soon to cut the next batch of templates. This batch should be satisfactory.
Whoah, no thanks, I will do it once and do it right.
landtank said:
I was wondering why they were black in the photo when I have always seen blue ones.
I have been wheeling stock for 4 years now so 2" will be it because I like to get on the skinny pedal through the washes out in Borrego.
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2002
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- 5,370
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- Durango, Colorado
- Website
- www.durangomagazine.com
I've been on an Iron Man Lift now since August. TOY024C / TOY013B spring combo for the record. Foam shocks and the adjustable bushings set at 2.5 degrees. Everything has been great so far. My truck is about 6000lbs daily driving.
Pic for stance, tires are 315's. They rub, need to drop my bumpstops.
Pic for stance, tires are 315's. They rub, need to drop my bumpstops.
Had the same dilemma.
Only thing I plan on putting on are sliders at ~#100 so split both sides adds #25 per wheel or #50 per side. Maybe a skid plate or two. Don't want to put a front bumper on because I still want a functioning airbag system. The rear B coils handle up to #440 so i could put an extended tank and probably call it a day. I have to be practical and thrifty. My rear bumper functions just fine as is and the LC sees 10% dirt roads in the summer so highway the other 90%. And I don't feel a need to prove my truck can do what others have already proved it can.
Only thing I plan on putting on are sliders at ~#100 so split both sides adds #25 per wheel or #50 per side. Maybe a skid plate or two. Don't want to put a front bumper on because I still want a functioning airbag system. The rear B coils handle up to #440 so i could put an extended tank and probably call it a day. I have to be practical and thrifty. My rear bumper functions just fine as is and the LC sees 10% dirt roads in the summer so highway the other 90%. And I don't feel a need to prove my truck can do what others have already proved it can.
I just placed my order for the Iron Man 2" lift and went with the 24B (110#) front springs, 13B (660#) rear springs and Foam Cell Shocks.
What a great deal and great promotion!
I will definitely post up before & after shots on level ground and measurements. I plan for the DS to be a little low until I get the PS cargo box built, because I have a DS tire swing and CO2 bottle on the DS.
On a side note Eli of Camel 4x4 feels the 2° bushings to be adequite for a 2" lift but agrees that Slee's bushings are a great product. I will be going with Slees due to my mechanic John @ SD Trux recommending them and having had them himself in his 80.
What a great deal and great promotion!
I will definitely post up before & after shots on level ground and measurements. I plan for the DS to be a little low until I get the PS cargo box built, because I have a DS tire swing and CO2 bottle on the DS.
On a side note Eli of Camel 4x4 feels the 2° bushings to be adequite for a 2" lift but agrees that Slee's bushings are a great product. I will be going with Slees due to my mechanic John @ SD Trux recommending them and having had them himself in his 80.
sO,
Big tires, no lift, cool stuff.
The pain comes when you have to back out of a nugly spot.
With a sharp transition you back over that mudflap thing.
Makes a really special sound when the fender lip comes off and flies across the yard.
Woo Hoo!!!
Anybody got a spare left rear fender lip mud flap thing floating around? Green?
Local in Portland?
The big tires mess up the "COMPUTER" too, I know because the tire shop said so. (yuk)
Big tires, no lift, cool stuff.
The pain comes when you have to back out of a nugly spot.
With a sharp transition you back over that mudflap thing.
Makes a really special sound when the fender lip comes off and flies across the yard.
Woo Hoo!!!
Anybody got a spare left rear fender lip mud flap thing floating around? Green?
Local in Portland?
The big tires mess up the "COMPUTER" too, I know because the tire shop said so. (yuk)
SUMMIT CRUISERS
SILVER Star
Last weekend I got my 2” Ironman lift installed. This lift is the Performance with gas shocks code TOY024BKG. It has the Toy024B coil springs for the front and TOY025B springs for the rear. I chose the Nitro gas shocks instead of the Foam cell due to the daily use which will be primarily street driving with an occasional off-road trip. Shocks were part #’s 12683GR front and 12682GR for the rear.
Lift gave me a net gain of 2.375 on driver front and 2.625 on the passenger front. On the rear I got 3.075 on both sides. These readings were recorded a couple days after the lift was installed which it had settled about 1/8” up front and 1/4” in the rear. Post lift Hub to bottom of flare measurements are DF 22 5/8, PF 23 1/8, DR 22 1/4 and PR is 22 5/8. These readings do include a 1” spacer up front. On my “stock” vehicle (no bumpers/winches/sliders) a 3/4” spacer is all that I would have needed for the “perfect” front to back level. I chose not to include the before lift measurements because I had 30mm spacers on the rear and 1 1/2” spacers up front. The only thing I am noticing is the truck sits about 1/2 " lower on the driver's side (same as it did pre-lift). The springs were labeled n/s side and d/s side as I recall. The n/s springs were about 1/2" taller than the d/s ones. I installed the taller springs labeled n/s on the driver's side. Not sure if that's right but it appeared to be the way to do it. If I find out different later, I will reverse, just takes me about 4
's.
For caster correction I performed the “washer mod” on the front hole only. I feel like it is very close but will perform the same on the rear holes this weekend. Thanks to Tools R Us for your links posted and information about this. On the drivers side I was able to drill the hole centered down 14mm but on the Passenger side I had to break out the plasma cutter due to space limitations. On the rear holes I will probably only bring them up by about 7mm.
Ride is like night and day awesome, very smooth and soaks up the bumps very nicely. I would highly recommend Ironman for anyone considering a lift. Thanks again to Eli at Camel 4x4. Great product, fast shipping, great customer service.
Here’s a few pics of the lift. Tires are 33x10.5x15’s.
Lift gave me a net gain of 2.375 on driver front and 2.625 on the passenger front. On the rear I got 3.075 on both sides. These readings were recorded a couple days after the lift was installed which it had settled about 1/8” up front and 1/4” in the rear. Post lift Hub to bottom of flare measurements are DF 22 5/8, PF 23 1/8, DR 22 1/4 and PR is 22 5/8. These readings do include a 1” spacer up front. On my “stock” vehicle (no bumpers/winches/sliders) a 3/4” spacer is all that I would have needed for the “perfect” front to back level. I chose not to include the before lift measurements because I had 30mm spacers on the rear and 1 1/2” spacers up front. The only thing I am noticing is the truck sits about 1/2 " lower on the driver's side (same as it did pre-lift). The springs were labeled n/s side and d/s side as I recall. The n/s springs were about 1/2" taller than the d/s ones. I installed the taller springs labeled n/s on the driver's side. Not sure if that's right but it appeared to be the way to do it. If I find out different later, I will reverse, just takes me about 4
's. For caster correction I performed the “washer mod” on the front hole only. I feel like it is very close but will perform the same on the rear holes this weekend. Thanks to Tools R Us for your links posted and information about this. On the drivers side I was able to drill the hole centered down 14mm but on the Passenger side I had to break out the plasma cutter due to space limitations. On the rear holes I will probably only bring them up by about 7mm.
Ride is like night and day awesome, very smooth and soaks up the bumps very nicely. I would highly recommend Ironman for anyone considering a lift. Thanks again to Eli at Camel 4x4. Great product, fast shipping, great customer service.
Here’s a few pics of the lift. Tires are 33x10.5x15’s.
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2* or 3*
So I installed the ironman springs and shocks, but haven't installed the 2* caster bushings. Can someone explain what the bushings do and how they work? I guess I could upgrade to the Slee 3* bushings, but don't understand why.
FWIW I installed the N/S springs on the passenger side because the transfer case, drive shafts and a few misc things add weight to this side(I think) D/S ones went to the driver side. I called Eli because I didn't know if the springs were marked for AUS spec 80s that are right hand drive or labeled for US spec vehicles.
So I installed the ironman springs and shocks, but haven't installed the 2* caster bushings. Can someone explain what the bushings do and how they work? I guess I could upgrade to the Slee 3* bushings, but don't understand why.
FWIW I installed the N/S springs on the passenger side because the transfer case, drive shafts and a few misc things add weight to this side(I think) D/S ones went to the driver side. I called Eli because I didn't know if the springs were marked for AUS spec 80s that are right hand drive or labeled for US spec vehicles.
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SUMMIT CRUISERS
SILVER Star
The bushings turn the axle housing back into spec. after a lift which makes the steering more stable (in simple words). You might do a search for caster, lots of info. I think the 2* bushings would be fine on a 2 to 2 1/2" lift. The way I understand if the lift is about 3" you would like the 3*.
Regarding your comment about the N/S and D/S springs, I'm really curious what your center hub to bottom of fender flare measurements are. When you get time could you post it up? Thanks, Steve.
My measurements
Regarding your comment about the N/S and D/S springs, I'm really curious what your center hub to bottom of fender flare measurements are. When you get time could you post it up? Thanks, Steve.[/QUOTE]
Here are my numbers after 3 days driving on the new suspension.
12683GR Nitro Gas Shocks Front
12682GR Nitro Gas Shocks Rear
TOY024B Coil Spring Front
TOY025B Coil Spring Rear
P/S fender to hub center measurement = 22.25"
D/S fender to hub center measurement = 21.25"
(special note... Eli sent me three rear shocks and one front shock. I have the other one arriving and installed on Weds. For now the OEM shock is still on the P/s also have some moving boxes in the truck currently)so...
I plan on driving 3000 miles to San Diego and back to Dallas on this set up. I can post numbers after that trip. I'll check caster when I return to ensure the proper correction. I don't want to over correct for caster and end up with other issues.
Regarding your comment about the N/S and D/S springs, I'm really curious what your center hub to bottom of fender flare measurements are. When you get time could you post it up? Thanks, Steve.[/QUOTE]
Here are my numbers after 3 days driving on the new suspension.
12683GR Nitro Gas Shocks Front
12682GR Nitro Gas Shocks Rear
TOY024B Coil Spring Front
TOY025B Coil Spring Rear
P/S fender to hub center measurement = 22.25"
D/S fender to hub center measurement = 21.25"
(special note... Eli sent me three rear shocks and one front shock. I have the other one arriving and installed on Weds. For now the OEM shock is still on the P/s also have some moving boxes in the truck currently)so...
I plan on driving 3000 miles to San Diego and back to Dallas on this set up. I can post numbers after that trip. I'll check caster when I return to ensure the proper correction. I don't want to over correct for caster and end up with other issues.
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- Thread starter
- #52
Eli told me to swap spring sides when I ordered a 20cm spacer, this weekend I had a couple a beers and messed with the lift again. This is after some dirt hill wheeling so the springs would seat in properly. I am officially done messing with the lift. Very happy with how level it is, I was prepped to put the spacer on a belt sander to get this thing perfect.
Update,
Front I put a 20cm spacer on drivers side, N/S spring on passenger side.
Rear I put the N/S spring on the drivers and D/S spring on passenger side.
Fender to Center Hub
Front
Driver 22 3/8 Passenger 22 1/2
Rear
Driver 22 7/8 Passenger 23
SUUEEET- I am really jealous of the shocks, really want to give them a try.
Update,
Front I put a 20cm spacer on drivers side, N/S spring on passenger side.
Rear I put the N/S spring on the drivers and D/S spring on passenger side.
Fender to Center Hub
Front
Driver 22 3/8 Passenger 22 1/2
Rear
Driver 22 7/8 Passenger 23
SUUEEET- I am really jealous of the shocks, really want to give them a try.
Looking forward to meeting you when you get here and my 2" lift will be freshly installed that week.
a hub to flare measurement around 22.5" will very likely require more than 3* of correction to be back in spec.
For reference my Ironman 2" springs put my rig's caster in the negative numbers. Sadly I am not sure where exactly since the $10k alignment rack at my shop can't read negative caster. Like Landtank said, if it is negative you need at least 3 degrees to get it back to spec. I am very happy with my Ironman front springs though!
Glad I decided to go with Slees Bushings. They should be arriving tomorrow!
the thing to remember is that during the process of correcting the caster you will get a little bump in height.
So if you have taken the truck in for a sweep prior to installing any caster correction you want to target 4*, which is the upper limit of spec. Then with that bump it drops down closer to the middle.
How much of a bump are we talking? 1/4"? Interesting information for sure.
I got 3/8"-1/2". That equates to about a half of a degree.
I know it's small but just wanted to provide all the info that I've observed when I went through the process. And targeting 4* is the safest way to be sure you are with in spec.
