IPOR FJ60 into FJ40 Powersteering Conversion

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I'm just replacing my shock towers with a pair from mckinnons that will eliminate any clearance issues with the steering box.

I'm chomping at the bit for Matt's conversion kit/plates
 
I don’t have @Mark W or @cruisermatt wealth of experience and I have only done one swap, so keep that in mind.

If you’re up for the 60/80 swap, then moving the shock tower is trivial. The rest of the project will seem much more involved (&it’s not rocket science). I lightly notched the backside rib and relocated behind the box. It was a no brainer in retrospect.

On my ‘73, moving the tower allowed me the freedom to put the fj80 box/pitarm in (what I think) is the ideal position. The relay rod sits right over the tierod. I have great steering feel and little to no bumpsteer.
It really does make the rig more fun to drive with bigger tires.

On my 1st scout steering conversion I used the ford shock towers and didnt like the look. So when I adapted scout steering on my other 40, I moved my stk shock tower back too. The frt tower holes are now located in the towers rear mounting holes in the frame and reversed the shock mounting stud. I did have to grind on the tower, but not near as much to clearance for the box. I also didn't have to use scab plates on the outside of the frame because of previous alterations to the rad support.
 
I made my own shock tower:
IMG_8613.jpeg


IMG_9108.jpeg


OEM vs. mine, both at their own locations. Mine is 6 cm more back, the pin and axle’s pin are turned 180°.
IMG_9109.jpeg
 
Last edited:
On my 1st scout steering conversion I used the ford shock towers and didnt like the look. So when I adapted scout steering on my other 40, I moved my stk shock tower back too. The frt tower holes are now located in the towers rear mounting holes in the frame and reversed the shock mounting stud. I did have to grind on the tower, but not near as much to clearance for the box. I also didn't have to use scab plates on the outside of the frame because of previous alterations to the rad support.
It’s been a minute, but I think this is where mine ended up as well. I also reversed the lower stud.

Like I said, this is the more minor part of the project. Getting good measurements for the tie rod was more difficult and that’s pretty straight forward.
 
Last edited:
The Ford shock tower mod on mine was easy, and effective.

Did need to cut a little bit out of the top of the fender…. certainly are differences from stock!

Rocky
 
Here's what I did. Moving the stk tower back and how I altered the fender so I didn't cut a big hole in it. It's a scout box which I think is a little larger. The fenders shock opening is essentially the stk size.
20180506_141054.jpg
20211109_000457.jpg
20211109_000417.jpg
 
The part that so far is unclear to me is what do I need to do to my steering column that has a rag joint on end of it in order to mate up to a universal/telescoping steering column like 60/80's have like in above photo
 
The part that so far is unclear to me is what do I need to do to my steering column that has a rag joint on end of it in order to mate up to a universal/telescoping steering column like 60/80's have like in above photo

I’ll have a bearing and U-joint that will get welded on there. Just like IPOR did with their kits
 
The part that so far is unclear to me is what do I need to do to my steering column that has a rag joint on end of it in order to mate up to a universal/telescoping steering column like 60/80's have like in above photo
I used J6* steering tube/bearing, welded it to 40’s plate. The shaft is cut and milled to fit to 60’s shaft.
IMG_7376.jpeg
IMG_7405.jpeg
IMG_7328.jpeg
 
If you do not mind your steering column being an inch or two longer in the cab, scavange a column and intermediate shaft from an FJ55. The colum will combine with the stock '40 column. (it is obvious which parts you need as soon as you look at it). It will bolt right in. Then cut and extend the intermediate shaft to the length needed. It will bolt right in.
This gives you a supported shaft at the firewall with a bearing and an intermediate shaft with two ujoints. The rag joint is eliminated.

Personally, after using a setup like this for a while, i did not like the position/location of the OEM steering wheel on the slightly longer shaft. Shortening it adds a bit of fab work to an otherwise rock simple approach, but I like the result better myself. Different people, different body sizes and shapes will likely feel different.

Mark...
 
The part that so far is unclear to me is what do I need to do to my steering column that has a rag joint on end of it in order to mate up to a universal/telescoping steering column like 60/80's have like in above photo

You probably need to search here or on the internet for scout , FJ60 power steering in the 40 section or steering shaft bearing and look for posts referencing this website. There's a lot of info on this site. Also look in FAQ's at "Technical links". Folks do this mod in different ways. I cut the rag flange off then unbolted the column from the firewall(4 bolts) and adapt a bearing in the end of the column and reassemble. There are many ways to adapt a u-joint to the cut shaft by welding or altering end of the shaft and drill and bolt it on. You'll probably want a Double D(collapsable) shaft going from the firewall to the box. Universal joints come in all different kinds of configurations. The chrome one at the box in my pic has a Double D female end and a 3/4 36 spline end for the box. My firewall yokes are from an old Downey steering conversion with a greaseable, replaceable U joint that is welded. The borgeson link posted earlier may be a good source along with Speedway, Summit or jegs. You can also find yokes and U joints at Tractor Supply which would be similar to the Downey type.
 
The part that so far is unclear to me is what do I need to do to my steering column that has a rag joint on end of it in order to mate up to a universal/telescoping steering column like 60/80's have like in above photo
I used the following:

Firewall bearing - Steering Column Anchor for 1973-1981 4x-Series Toyota Land Cruisers - BTB Products - Land Cruiser Restoration and Parts - https://btbprod.com/product/steering-column-anchor-fj40-toyota-land-cruiser-73-80/

Shaft (cut to about 20”) - JEGS 607102: Telescoping Double "D" Steering Shaft 3/4 in.-DD x 1 in.DD x 26 in. Long - JEGS - https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/607102/10002/-1?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD6OBRG9kL-KJ_Vx1RhZR2rLXl7jC&gclid=CjwKCAjw4ri0BhAvEiwA8oo6F6L15weK-yJCM8e75rOb7LAk4dnnVT10QmGWWGIMgA5aK8hBat_ZhBoCcgAQAvD_BwE

Joint at box - Flaming River FR1782PL: Billet U-Joint 11/16"-36 x 3/4"-36 - JEGS - https://www.jegs.com/i/Flaming+River/898/FR1782PL/10002/-1?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD6OBRGli_bwSV61AnX8auPKodoLW&gclid=CjwKCAjw4ri0BhAvEiwA8oo6Fw43fTRdGej17GZ3plFvuCEwJgl65KdtnoVmJzbfMinTmHPANiUnaBoCO2oQAvD_BwE

Joint at stock shaft - Flaming River FR1717DD: Billet U-Joint 3/4" DD x 1" DD - JEGS - https://www.jegs.com/i/Flaming+River/898/FR1717DD/10002/-1?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD6OBRGli_bwSV61AnX8auPKodoLW&gclid=CjwKCAjw4ri0BhAvEiwA8oo6F_EJs-5lpwUfC63zHI79fKBmMTbi0eucrA1GewN2uQahS1t0PYzpjRoCr-IQAvD_BwE

You need longer bolts for installing the bearing. You have to cut off the stock shaft and grind or mill in the flats to match the joint. The shaft needs to be cut to length once you figure out what the right length is. You also have to drill some small holes for the lock screws on the joints. It is a pretty straight forward install, no welding required.

IMG_3647.jpeg


IMG_3648.jpeg
 
You can also find that bearing UCF204-12, without the extra holes drilled for a lot less, but you have to drill it out.

Grewirifc UCF204-12 Pillow Block Bearings (2 Pack) - 3/4 inch Bore, 4 Bolt Flange Mounted, Solid Cast Iron Base, Self-Alignment
https://a.co/d/0f8WfZAZ
 
FYI - they are still doing the upgrade if you are local. They added it to my 76 when I had it in their shop last year for some work. Solid guys.
 
I used the external bearing/pillow block on the firewall on my 1st P/S conversion and it work out great. No problems except for the aesthetics. On my 2nd Scout steering I decided to use a bearing on inside the end of the column. Its a little more work , but in the end it is a cleaner install. I found a pic from another thread below, and the link from where I found it. @cruiseroutfit sells the bearing. You can see in the pic the op alter the end of the shaft to accommodate the U joint assembly. Personally, the shaft looks a little short.
The bearing can be found at a lawnmower shop too.
Screenshot_20240711_230249_Chrome.jpg



Here's a screen shot from @bikersmurf scout steering thread that lists other sources for the bearing.
Screenshot_20240710_233124_Chrome.jpg
 
Last edited:
Early bib lights can be cut and shortened with a tubing cutter and a couple small tack welds. The depth of the bulb holder will move forwards giving clearance for the box. Might have to use an led bulb.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom