Intermittent Starter Problems (1 Viewer)

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

I am dealing with a 1981 FJ40, stock 2f and wiring. I started to have starting issues a couple of months ago. Mainly once the vehicle warms up but not always. It is the usual problem we've all had over the decades with simple starters like this. Just a click you can hear at the starter but it wont engage. Usually a climb underneath and a tap with a rock on the starter will fix it, or rolling the vehicle and getting it to move the flywheel a bit solves the issue, but not always. So I ordered a rebuilt stater from Cruiser Outfitters and installed it and it never once turned over, still just the click. I put back the old starter and it goes back to the intermittent problem. Is it possible the reman starter I got was faulty and dead? I have a fully charged battery and all new battery cables and two cables grounding the engine to the frame, one of those being right on the upper starter mount bolt. Is it possible that I have bad contact on both of these ground cables? Ideas, suggestions?

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

Sounds like your wiring to and or from the ignition switch is old and getting hot not allowing enough voltage to hit the starter solenoid. Not sure about the FJ40's, never had a problem with mine but I have solved lots of intermittent starting issues on FJ80's with the addition of a Ford Solenoid. Here's just one of the many threads about the Ford Solenoid: 94 delayed cranking. Starter, ignition switch, or other?
Just a idea....

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

Sounds like your wiring to and or from the ignition switch is old and getting hot not allowing enough voltage to hit the starter solenoid. Not sure about the FJ40's, never had a problem with mine but I have solved lots of intermittent starting issues on FJ80's with the addition of a Ford Solenoid. Here's just one of the many threads about the Ford Solenoid: 94 delayed cranking. Starter, ignition switch, or other?
Just a idea....

I believe you are talking about this wire circled in orange. When I tested it Disconnected from the starter it had full battery voltage when the key turned to start position. I will test it again while connected to see the voltage drop. It may good continuity and voltage when unloaded but not when asked to actually do the work. I suppose the problem could be upstream from the ignition switch through the fusible link and battery positive.

 

[bikersmurf]

I'd polish all the conections and coat them with Neverseeze (or grease) before reassembly.

If that doesn't help, try running a wire from battery + to the crank post on the solenoid. Be careful not to get run over.

Does your clutch need to be depressed to start the truck? Could be a bad switch there.

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

I'd polish all the conections and coat them with Neverseeze (or grease) before reassembly.

If that doesn't help, try running a wire from battery + to the crank post on the solenoid. Be careful not to get run over.

Does your clutch need to be depressed to start the truck? Could be a bad switch there.

No, clutch does not need to be depressed to start. Parking brake works so I can do your test alone with truck in neutral. I usually try to remember to use dielectric grease on my electrical connections and copper anti seize on bolts and nuts.

 

[bikersmurf]

Even better.

No, clutch does not need to be depressed to start. Parking brake works so I can do your test alone with truck in neutral. I usually try to remember to use dielectric grease on my electrical connections and copper anti seize on bolts and nuts.

 

[Splangy]

View attachment 1662462
I believe you are talking about this wire circled in orange. When I tested it Disconnected from the starter it had full battery voltage when the key turned to start position. I will test it again while connected to see the voltage drop. It may good continuity and voltage when unloaded but not when asked to actually do the work. I suppose the problem could be upstream from the ignition switch through the fusible link and battery positive.

It could have 12v, but too much resistance to supply the necessary current.

However, if tapping with a rock helps, it’s probably time for a new solenoid or just upgrade to a 3FE gear reduction starter.

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

Both starters I have are gear reduction but not sure if they would fit a 3FE. I would suspect if the wire had too much resistance and blocked the current, the result would be heat. I will look for that as well.

It could have 12v, but too much resistance to supply the necessary current.

However, if tapping with a rock helps, it’s probably time for a new solenoid or just upgrade to a 3FE gear reduction starter.

 

[Casey E]

I didn't read all the replies, but I had a very similar issue and it was my ground, simple as that.

 

[morganism]

It's the ignitor ground, clean the clamp attachment on the coil.

Dizzy FAQ

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

Yes going to recheck all grounds as that is always the first place to look. Of course today the problem seems to have vanished. Though I dont see how the ignitor ground would keep the starter from engaging. I'll clean it anyway. couldnt hurt.