Installing the dizzy after cleanup/removal HELP!!

[badass]

Ok i am trying to reinstall my dizzy after removing it without (i know stupid) marking which direction the rotor was pointing in. Now i've always had trouble getting tdc, cause it doesn't seems like my flywheel is marked. This is what i'm doing correct if im wrong please.

Put tranny in 4th gear, no parking brake and rock the vehicle forward until (valve cover off) #1 spark plug valves (closest to water pump) are both closed (meaning sprngs are compressed on intake and exhaust)

After achieving this point the metal tip of the rotor in the direction of the #1 plug wire on the dizzy cap

Then stick a flat head screw driver down the dizzy hole on the side of the engine until it reaches the oil pump, line it up with the dizzy so it slips in fully.

Now this is where i get lost, where should the rotor be pointing when i try to install in the engine, i've slipped it in 5 different times, with no luck of the engine starting but i have oil pressure every time, is that even possible?

I'm afraid i'm gonna seize the engine, really nervous right now.

Please help.

 

[badass]

I'm not able to get the #1 spark plug valves (both exhaust and intake) to be closed at the same time. Once the intake is closed the exhaust is open and vice versa. I'm lost at this point in finding tdc.

 

[bucfan]

I could be very wrong because not that experienced but I thought the springs would not be compressed, that there should be some play when the valves are closed. If you have been trying it with them compressed, try it the other way, if you have oil pressure you not gonna hurt anything. Oh, and you have to find some mark on your flywheel for it to start, either the line or BB. If you cannot find either you will not be able to set timing, luck will not help you here.

 

[matt.mcinnes]

I could be very wrong because not that experienced but I thought the springs would not be compressed, that there should be some play when the valves are closed. If you have been trying it with them compressed, try it the other way, if you have oil pressure you not gonna hurt anything. Oh, and you have to find some mark on your flywheel for it to start, either the line or BB. If you cannot find either you will not be able to set timing, luck will not help you here.

Nup your right, both springs should be uncompressed at TDC, you can also feel for the top of the piston through No1 Spark plug hole with a pencil or similar.

White maker pens are great for marking the flywheel once you have what you want too.

 

[bucfan]

Oh forgot to add, breath deep, grap a beverage and take a break for a little bit then go back to it.

 

[badass]

I could be very wrong because not that experienced but I thought the springs would not be compressed, that there should be some play when the valves are closed. If you have been trying it with them compressed, try it the other way, if you have oil pressure you not gonna hurt anything. Oh, and you have to find some mark on your flywheel for it to start, either the line or BB. If you cannot find either you will not be able to set timing, luck will not help you here.

No wonder, thanks alot, also the only thing i have been seeing on the flywheel is some kind of cut in the fly wheel. Is that BB your refering to? What is BB? Thanks, i'm currently takin a break.

 

[bucfan]

I would put it in 4th gear and bump backward. You have to bump, look, bump, look (in the flywheel insp hole). There will eventually be a circle hole and a line close to it. You need to be on the line or at least the BB to be close so it will fire, then look at your valve springs. If they are compressed rotate the flywheel all the way around again. Then do the rest like you said and it should fire.

 

[matt.mcinnes]

Here you go

 

[Pin_Head]

If both valves are moving, it is at TDC on the exhaust stroke, not on the compression stroke. Turn the crank another turn. Remember, it is a 4 cycle engine.

Make sure that the distributor is fully seated and then check oil pressure immediately after starting it or you can ruin your engine.

 

[bucfan]

Yeah do what Matts pic shows, thats alot better than I could explain it. Note to self save pic for future use

 

[matt.mcinnes]

Yeah do what Matts pic shows, thats alot better than I could explain it. Note to self save pic for future use

Buy one

You will never regret it

 

[Darby Darrow]

No wonder, thanks alot, also the only thing i have been seeing on the flywheel is some kind of cut in the fly wheel. Is that BB your refering to? What is BB? Thanks, i'm currently takin a break.

The easiest way to find the BB is to remove the flywheel cover under the cruiser, just behind the oil pan. Then rock it until you spot the BB and paint it.

 

[donny paradise]

I'm afraid i'm gonna seize the engine, really nervous right now.

And you very well should be. From judging your previous post of problems from years past you have no business messing around with your dizzy like that You better call in a professional while you still have something to work with

 

[badass]

Here you go

Thanks this really helps alot, but i have a 79 fully electronic dizzy, and that seems to be an older dizzy in the pic. I finally found the hole on the flywheel, now when i align the hole with the pointer, both valves on the the #1 cylinder are uncompressed fully, I did everything the fsm said and now only if the coil wire is hooked up, when i try to start, the starter makes a jerk sound (the sound you hear when you try to start the rig in first gear for example). So obviously i did somethin wrong, if coil wire isn't hooked up the starter just turns normally.

Is my dizzy rotor supposed to be pointing at #1 with the flywheel pointer at the hole, because if i setup the dizzy roter the way the fsm pic shows, it's not set at 1. I think that is the problem. Please advise.

 

[matt.mcinnes]

Thanks this really helps alot, but i have a 79 fully electronic dizzy, and that seems to be an older dizzy in the pic. I finally found the hole on the flywheel, now when i align the hole with the pointer, both valves on the the #1 cylinder are uncompressed fully, I did everything the fsm said and now only if the coil wire is hooked up, when i try to start, the starter makes a jerk sound (the sound you hear when you try to start the rig in first gear for example). So obviously i did somethin wrong, if coil wire isn't hooked up the starter just turns normally.

Is my dizzy rotor supposed to be pointing at #1 with the flywheel pointer at the hole, because if i setup the dizzy roter the way the fsm pic shows, it's not set at 1. I think that is the problem. Please advise.

The type of dizzy makes no difference same principal.

Aline the dot on the fly wheel, turn the oil pump to suit the dizzy when in place and follow the factory service manuals instructions.
Remember as you insert the dizzy it turns as the gear engages allow for this turning so you finish in the correct location.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

BA-You have faced your challenges these last several months, but if you can't find TDC and know it for sure, stop now. If you put it back together, and don't engage the oil pump slot, your motor will be ruined before you know you made a mistake. Whether the picture shows a small body or large body distributor makes no difference-they all install the same way.

Here are the steps I go through:

1) Set to compression stroke TDC-If there is pressure on either of the valves, you are 360 out. It takes a full rotation to get to TDC. Remember the compression stroke is every 2 revolutions of the crank.

2) Look down the distributor hole and line up the oil pump drive slot with the #5 spark plug. A screw driver works well for this.

3) Hold the distributor body with the vacuum pot in it's normal orientation, and point the rotor at #4 spark plug.

4)Insert the assembly into the hole. As the distributor gear engages the gear on the cam, the rotor will rotate as it slides in, and finish pointing at the #5 spark plug. Make sure it is seated all the way down.

5) Set timing visually-line up the pick up with the protrusion on the shaft.

6) Unhook the power wire to the coil (thick black with yellow stripe I think) and then crank the motor with the starter until you get a hint of oil pressure on the gauge. This can take a bit if the oil filter is empty. This way I'm certain the oil pump is engaged before the motor starts.

7) Hook up the power wire and attempt to start. Once it starts, check again that you have oil pressure, if no or questionable, shut it off immediately and go through the steps again. If you do have oil pressure, set the timing with a light.

Good luck, but this is not a place that you can make a mistake and get away with it, so be certain of what you are doing.

 

[bucfan]

I did everything the fsm said and now only if the coil wire is hooked up, when i try to start, the starter makes a jerk sound (the sound you hear when you try to start the rig in first gear for example). So obviously i did somethin wrong, if coil wire isn't hooked up the starter just turns normally.

Now that makes no sense, you sure you didnt try to start once without the clutch engaged? Remember you had it in 4th gear to rock

 

[badass]

BA-You have faced your challenges these last several months, but if you can't find TDC and know it for sure, stop now. If you put it back together, and don't engage the oil pump slot, your motor will be ruined before you know you made a mistake. Whether the picture shows a small body or large body distributor makes no difference-they all install the same way.

Here are the steps I go through:

1) Set to compression stroke TDC-If there is pressure on either of the valves, you are 360 out. It takes a full rotation to get to TDC. Remember the compression stroke is every 2 revolutions of the crank.

2) Look down the distributor hole and line up the oil pump drive slot with the #5 spark plug. A screw driver works well for this.

3) Hold the distributor body with the vacuum pot in it's normal orientation, and point the rotor at #4 spark plug.

4)Insert the assembly into the hole. As the distributor gear engages the gear on the cam, the rotor will rotate as it slides in, and finish pointing at the #5 spark plug. Make sure it is seated all the way down.

5) Set timing visually-line up the pick up with the protrusion on the shaft.

6) Unhook the power wire to the coil (thick black with yellow stripe I think) and then crank the motor with the starter until you get a hint of oil pressure on the gauge. This can take a bit if the oil filter is empty. This way I'm certain the oil pump is engaged before the motor starts.

7) Hook up the power wire and attempt to start. Once it starts, check again that you have oil pressure, if no or questionable, shut it off immediately and go through the steps again. If you do have oil pressure, set the timing with a light.

Good luck, but this is not a place that you can make a mistake and get away with it, so be certain of what you are doing.

Good info cruiserdrew, here is the stat so far, did exactly as these directions and the dizzy slipped right into the oil pump drive. But the dang thing still won't start. I think i might have it on the wrong tdc, how do you know when you are on the right tdc.

 

[Rocky_LC]

Are you sure you are getting spark, and that your distributor is working right?

Check that - and if you are, then make sure you are really at TDC.

There's only one choice on TDC - read Figure 8-49 in the manual above. BB in the window, both Intake and Exhayst Valves closed (no compression of springs).

Rocky

 

[Trollhole]

Do us all a favor and take a pic of the distributor where it meets the block.