Find the toyota wire harness repair manual. You can use that to look up the connector to make your own pigtails.
Installation of replacement leather (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Romer
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Thanks for the info!
You can get crimp on terminals for the connectors from newunitedracetech.com as well.
Thank you darkness! I need to look at that wiring diagram. Have never really done any automotive wiring, but feel like I should be able to figure it out.
I posted a PDF somewhere of what I did with mine, I had to cut the pigs at the junk yard and then spliced them together under the console after cutting off the connectors there.
I've had the seats out all week, and finally got them finished up today. Decided to just go with the switches that came with the heated seat kit--seats are heating up great. I've managed to completely destroy 2 switch blanks in my attempt to mount them in the coin holder slots though. I really wasn't expecting that to be a problem!
Thanks again for all of the help in this and other threads. Definitely a tedious, pain-in-the-rear installation, but I can't even begin to describe how much better my truck looks inside now. You get to enjoy this upgrade ever time you open the door.
You can see in this pic how my switches are unattached at the center console. I'll try my luck at getting those secure tomorrow. Ran out of daylight today!
Thanks again for all of the help in this and other threads. Definitely a tedious, pain-in-the-rear installation, but I can't even begin to describe how much better my truck looks inside now. You get to enjoy this upgrade ever time you open the door.
You can see in this pic how my switches are unattached at the center console. I'll try my luck at getting those secure tomorrow. Ran out of daylight today!
Looks great mtzorro. Going slow myself, but doing the armrests and center console as we speak. Any hints on the coin holder blanks/switches? How did you end up routing the wiring?
I'm not really a pro with the wiring, but following the instructions from some of the sites/videos i found on the element installs, i ordered a couple of fuse taps. It was pretty easy to run the power wiring under the carpet, pull the kick panel, then run it up into the fuse box for the tap. there's a pretty solid ground under the center console. i did have to extend the power wire on the passenger side to reach the fuse box. for mine (and i would assume others), the seat elements had to be connected before the switch would light up (and show that it was working). my elements pull up to 10amps, so i tapped the "gauge" fuse for one. i actually need to pick another for my other seat since AC only works when the AC is on, and STOP isn't switched. My next choice is ECU, but I'd welcome another suggestion.
I've got 2 more switch blanks, so i was going to try drilling into those again to mount the switches. i may have just goofed on the first one. it didn't break until i was actually putting it into the coin holder slot.
Hope you got through the arm rests/center console!
I've got 2 more switch blanks, so i was going to try drilling into those again to mount the switches. i may have just goofed on the first one. it didn't break until i was actually putting it into the coin holder slot.
Hope you got through the arm rests/center console!
Thx. I did finish up the arm rests/console while watching a movie last night. But failed on covering over the vinyl in the front seat backs. Brush-on 'Weldwood' contact cement just soaked into the fabric backing and never got sticky enough to tack down to the prior vinyl. Will try again with some 3M 77 before I opt to pull off the old and hassle with the old foam.
Any tricks on disassembly with the 2nd row benches? Worried the spring will spring forward when I unbolt the big front bolts. Assume I'll unbolt them while in the "tumble forward" position and then I'll just do one side at a time to not get screwed up on the internal mechanisms.
Any tricks on disassembly with the 2nd row benches? Worried the spring will spring forward when I unbolt the big front bolts. Assume I'll unbolt them while in the "tumble forward" position and then I'll just do one side at a time to not get screwed up on the internal mechanisms.
The 3M 77 worked as advertised for me. Just get as much of the foam off of the back as you can.
I honestly have not even looked into the 2nd row install process yet. I was intending to put that off for a little while, but after getting the front ones in, I'd love to get the rear ones done soon now. Definitely keep me posted on what works for you.
Re the switch blanks, I think I just was unlucky with the one that broke. I was a bit more careful, but these went in without a hitch.
I honestly have not even looked into the 2nd row install process yet. I was intending to put that off for a little while, but after getting the front ones in, I'd love to get the rear ones done soon now. Definitely keep me posted on what works for you.
Re the switch blanks, I think I just was unlucky with the one that broke. I was a bit more careful, but these went in without a hitch.
Removing the 2nd row is easy. Fold the seats forward, remove both rear bolts them both front bolts. Remove as the sit folded. Reverse for install.
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Hot glue for the seat backs works well to get them started just work quickly to smooth it out before it hardens.
Thanks Dissent. Figured it can't be that hard, just didn't want to have a surprise. FSM didn't have anything except a component diagram.
warezdog - I did end up using hot glue pretty liberally on the door pull covers (or whatever those little pads are called). Liked how it turned out. I may give that a try on the front seat backs, too, then.
mtnzorro - sounds good. I'll probably go get some 3M 77 and a bigger brass brush for the foam tomorrow. And some wiring to make the heaters actually functional.
I used a really stiff bristle brush to take the foam off, started with a wire brush but saw that it did dig into the board if you weren't careful. Used a $1 hand cleaning brush from the dollar store and worked great. Used hot glue on the side with the dip to start then laid it in the dip and then sprayed the rest with 77 and used hot glue on the back side as well.
I want to share my experience going thru this mod/upgrade/repair, whatever it may be. My driver's side leather was very worn, cracked and ready to rip. I took advantage of Shane's discount a long time ago, they've been sitting on the shelf waiting to get done. I've also had a set of seat heaters and only wanted to go through this once.
First, great thanks to those who documented this, I can't imagine doing it for the first time without these step by step instructions. Thank you Romer, TomH and smcphc, well done...
And, great product Shane, well made and perfect fit for me.
My issues included:
- passenger seat was in a position when removed that prevented access to the rear 12mm bolts. I had to drag the seat back out to the truck, plug it in and adjust it. The seat needs to be "down" in the rear, for some reason, my wife likes it up.
- after trying to leverage the hog rings using a variety of needle nose pliers, flat blade screwdrivers, covered in a heavy dose of profanity, I opted to retrieve the heavy duty dikes (wire cutters) and just cut them. This method saved sooooo much time for me.
- zip ties instead of hog rings in those tight places, another HUGE savings in time. I used hog rings in the easier access point but to keep things pulled tight in those hard to reach places, I opted to go with zip ties.
I'm still in process, taking pics and edit to share soon...
First, great thanks to those who documented this, I can't imagine doing it for the first time without these step by step instructions. Thank you Romer, TomH and smcphc, well done...
And, great product Shane, well made and perfect fit for me.
My issues included:
- passenger seat was in a position when removed that prevented access to the rear 12mm bolts. I had to drag the seat back out to the truck, plug it in and adjust it. The seat needs to be "down" in the rear, for some reason, my wife likes it up.
- after trying to leverage the hog rings using a variety of needle nose pliers, flat blade screwdrivers, covered in a heavy dose of profanity, I opted to retrieve the heavy duty dikes (wire cutters) and just cut them. This method saved sooooo much time for me.
- zip ties instead of hog rings in those tight places, another HUGE savings in time. I used hog rings in the easier access point but to keep things pulled tight in those hard to reach places, I opted to go with zip ties.
I'm still in process, taking pics and edit to share soon...
Zip ties are a great way to close the gap from the listing on the seat the wire frame in the seat cushion. However please use the hog rings once you've tightened the ties up. The plastic on metal over a long period of time will run through them. If they are the cheap version they will simply snap.
Yes, cutting or as I prefer to do it grab the factory rings and pull and twist hard.
As stated, Super 77 is the best glue we've found that's readily available and I've recently found they sell a small can of it on amazon.
You'll want to use the glue on door panel upper vinyl, door arm rests, center console cover and seat back vinyl. Follow the directions, do a dry fit always so you understand how the part fits and always stretch these parts as tight as you can until the glue sets up and bonds.
Consoles can be a pain. I like to glue the top center first. Have it inside out ill follow the lines in the console and evenly match the new seams and wrap the ends over. Remember always a dry run before glue. Then ill spray the sides and do each one separately .
Side note, you can always omit your seat bank nets and just recover the panel for a smooth look. I did as I never carry visible items and carry a dog.
Hth
Shane
Yes, cutting or as I prefer to do it grab the factory rings and pull and twist hard.
As stated, Super 77 is the best glue we've found that's readily available and I've recently found they sell a small can of it on amazon.
You'll want to use the glue on door panel upper vinyl, door arm rests, center console cover and seat back vinyl. Follow the directions, do a dry fit always so you understand how the part fits and always stretch these parts as tight as you can until the glue sets up and bonds.
Consoles can be a pain. I like to glue the top center first. Have it inside out ill follow the lines in the console and evenly match the new seams and wrap the ends over. Remember always a dry run before glue. Then ill spray the sides and do each one separately .
Side note, you can always omit your seat bank nets and just recover the panel for a smooth look. I did as I never carry visible items and carry a dog.
Hth
Shane
I've be we used hot glue, but 3M super 77 has several set up times per the directions. Shoot one side and install and you can remove it with ease.
Shoot both sides, allow to tack up (5-7 min) for a permanent bond. Remember you can glue the black of a seat and then the sides in a second application. If you have small spring clamps, they work great for a second set of hands.
Never install leather while drinking. I get more "I cut holes where there was not to be holes" than you can imagine.
Shoot both sides, allow to tack up (5-7 min) for a permanent bond. Remember you can glue the black of a seat and then the sides in a second application. If you have small spring clamps, they work great for a second set of hands.
Never install leather while drinking. I get more "I cut holes where there was not to be holes" than you can imagine.
