Info Valve Cover bolts......? (1 Viewer)

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Getting ready to replace my leaking Valve Cover Gasket in the next few days. Looking at several threads here on the subject, I have noticed that in some pictures....several of the bolts were broken off in the head.

I am aware that these bolts will not take a lot of torque and that when putting the V/C back in place they don't need to be tightened very much.

My question however is this: Does anyone know the tread pitch of the bolts...in case I twist some of them off when removing the Valve Cover? I can't find information on this. I need to know which 'tap' to use to chase the threads after removing any broken bolts.

I have ordered (10) new bolts...just in case (90105-06221).
 
Don't know the pitch, but you could remove one and take it down a auto parts or hardware store to check if someone doesn't chime in.

The valve cover has small tabs on the underside around the outer lip that mates with the head; when those tabs come down and touch the head the bolts will not tighten any more, it is a dead stop IME. There is a torque spec, wait for someone who knows, but either way the reason those bolts get snapped off is because if you aren't paying attention to the feel of the wrench when the valve cover bottoms out, and you continue to gorilla grip the wrench, you will end up twisting the bolt head off.
 
AFAIK bolt sizes, types and pitch are listed in the fsm's.

I think they are to be torqued to 14ft-lb


I'll dig out my FSM (got it somewhere) and check to see if the thread pitch is listed. Torque figure of 14 ft-lbs sounds like WAY too much, maybe half that.
 
My advice having just done that job is to torque until they stop and leave it. They will tell you when they are done. I think it's theoretically torque to 12. 15 is definitely too much! In case it all goes wrong I did find some JIS bolts at a true value h/w store, should have photographed the bin, alas wasn't too clever that day. Toyota will also still service them.
 
Thread pitch on a 6mm bolt should be 1.0

That part number indicates a 6mm x 22m x 1.0 bolt. When you get it in, I'd love to know if that's confirmed?
 
Thread pitch on a 6mm bolt should be 1.0

That part number indicates a 6mm x 22m x 1.0 bolt. When you get it in, I'd love to know if that's confirmed?


Will do.
 
roger that, just popped one, and it's M6 x 1.0

i think it was bottomed out, there no way i put 12# of force on it before it popped. about a 1/4 turn past finger tight.
 
The value in the FSM is too much. I stripped two following the manual. I believe it should be lb-in, not lb-ft.
 
52 in.-lbf according to the softest (4T) 6x1 hex flange bolt in the FSM. I have searched and never found a torque callout for these bolts in the manual. @BILT4ME, where did you find the number?

52 in-lb is 4.33 ft-lb, and I don't think many ft-lb torque wrenches go down that small. Usually 10% of full scale is all you can do on the low end.

I did the "good and snug, but don't overdo it" method when I put my engine cover (VC) back on the first time. One day I saw that one bolt had backed up about 1/4". All the rest were loose as well. I researched, and used the above number to retighten all except the one under the throttle body (can't reach it). It seems good now.
 
I just replaced the Valve cover gasket and learned 2 things

1. DO NOT UNSCREW the 2 screws holding the wiring harness into the MAF seniors It comes off by the 2 staple looking clips.

2. I broke 2 bolts off by hand when putting the valve cover back on. Luckily there where near the front.
 
would it be good to replace all the V/C screws?
 
Anyone have the valve cover bolts, part number or a good replacement ?
 
If they are covered in oil like most, soak in some de-greaser or gasoline, blow off with compressed air and reuse.
No need to replace unless threads are compromised.
DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT break the nipple off your radiator reaching to get the back bolts out.You have been warned.

DO PCV grommet and spark plug seals while ur messing around.
Remove the PCV grommet while cover is off, or pieces can fall in and give you headache.
A Lisle Seal Puller works great to remove spark plug grommets ($10)
 
Don't listen to the FSM in this case with using a screwdriver to remove seals, luckily I found my puller after trying to use a screwdriver for 10 minutes on one seal. Also I don't believe the FSM actually states the torque for the valve cover bolts or I am extremely blind. 10 lbs seems to be too much, or my wrench is broken...
 
52 in.-lbf according to the softest (4T) 6x1 hex flange bolt in the FSM. I have searched and never found a torque callout for these bolts in the manual. @BILT4ME, where did you find the number?

52 in-lb is 4.33 ft-lb, and I don't think many ft-lb torque wrenches go down that small. Usually 10% of full scale is all you can do on the low end.

I did the "good and snug, but don't overdo it" method when I put my engine cover (VC) back on the first time. One day I saw that one bolt had backed up about 1/4". All the rest were loose as well. I researched, and used the above number to retighten all except the one under the throttle body (can't reach it). It seems good now.

I know this is an old thread revival, however, I was just helping out a friend to replace his valve cover (cylinder head cover #1) gasket and we were searching for the proper torque for these bolts.

We found this value in the FSM (See attached) and it is WAY too much. SO, we made an assumption of 15 LB-IN (instead of LB-FT) and it is STILL too much. We broke off a bolt at 15 LB-IN. Fortunately it was the RF bolt, so it's easy to get to, but, we have to drill and extract.
The screen shot is from the 1996 FSM.

FYI: The 1994 FSM does not state a torque value for ANY of the "cylinder head covers".

I would have to say to follow what @PabloVTA stated above in post #9, to go about 1/4 turn past finger tight, if that.

Don't do the typical torque value of "Tighten in down until you break it off, then back it off 1/2 turn...."

We tried that too.

Does anyone ( @beno @cruiserdan @inkpot @Tools R Us ) have a VERIFIED torque value for these bolts on the valve cover (Cylinder head cover #1 for 1FZ-FE?

upload_2018-6-11_9-36-56.png
 
The highlighted figure is for the bolts going from the cylinder head down into the timing cover.

I know this is an old thread revival, however, I was just helping out a friend to replace his valve cover (cylinder head cover #1) gasket and we were searching for the proper torque for these bolts.

We found this value in the FSM (See attached) and it is WAY too much. SO, we made an assumption of 15 LB-IN (instead of LB-FT) and it is STILL too much. We broke off a bolt at 15 LB-IN. Fortunately it was the RF bolt, so it's easy to get to, but, we have to drill and extract.
The screen shot is from the 1996 FSM.

FYI: The 1994 FSM does not state a torque value for ANY of the "cylinder head covers".

I would have to say to follow what @PabloVTA stated above in post #9, to go about 1/4 turn past finger tight, if that.

Don't do the typical torque value of "Tighten in down until you break it off, then back it off 1/2 turn...."

We tried that too.

Does anyone ( @beno @cruiserdan @inkpot @Tools R Us ) have a VERIFIED torque value for these bolts on the valve cover (Cylinder head cover #1 for 1FZ-FE?

View attachment 1720881
 
The '96 LX450 FSM shows 9ft/lb.

My 1993 manual does not list this fastener specifically. Referring to the standard bolt torque spec sheet in the front of the manual, this bolt has 3 hash marks which makes it a 7T. The spec for a 6mm 7T fastener is 9 ft/lb.

The same torque figure from two different manuals, using different reference points.
 

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