Builds indycole's 2016 200 Series Build and Retrospective (2 Viewers)

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Well, I now have 6 x Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T in 305/70r18 on Heritage wheels in a storage unit but no truck to put them on as the 200 is at Valley Hybrids for some preventative maintenance. These tires are pretty large... off-vehicle they measure 35.5 in diameter based on measuring the circumference. Hope they fit, lol.

I'm pairing them with 1-inch Bora spacers, lots of fender liner trimming, some nasty hacking of the pinch weld, and a body mount chop. I also finished fabricating a modified KDSS spacer that should keep the end links perpendicular; that said, I'm not sure I'm up for messing around with the swaybar again just yet.

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Well, I now have 6 x Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T in 305/70r18 on Heritage wheels in a storage unit but no truck to put them on as the 200 is at Valley Hybrids for some preventative maintenance. These tires are pretty large... off-vehicle they measure 35.5 in diameter based on measuring the circumference. Hope they fit, lol.

I'm pairing them with 1-inch Bora spacers, lots of fender liner trimming, some nasty hacking of the pinch weld, and a body mount chop. I also finished fabricating a modified KDSS spacer that should keep the end links perpendicular; that said, I'm not sure I'm up for messing around with the swaybar again just yet.

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That’s the best size! However, my KO2s measure a full inch smaller in horizontal weighted diameter (width).
 
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That’s the beat size! However, my KO2s measure a full inch smaller in horizontal weighted diameter.
I won't be disappointed if these lose a bit of height otherwise I may need to limit up-travel in the rear. Not too much height, though!
 
Well, I now have 6 x Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T in 305/70r18 on Heritage wheels in a storage unit but no truck to put them on as the 200 is at Valley Hybrids for some preventative maintenance. These tires are pretty large... off-vehicle they measure 35.5 in diameter based on measuring the circumference. Hope they fit, lol.

I'm pairing them with 1-inch Bora spacers, lots of fender liner trimming, some nasty hacking of the pinch weld, and a body mount chop. I also finished fabricating a modified KDSS spacer that should keep the end links perpendicular; that said, I'm not sure I'm up for messing around with the swaybar again just yet.

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I'll be interested to hear your take on their performance, noise, wear, etc
 
Wow, it's been around six months since I've shared any updates about the truck. There's nothing terribly exciting to share but there are a few things worth logging.

We certainly haven't traveled as much for the past year for all the obvious reasons. We used to do a lot of camping nearby (just normal campground stuff in the Santa Cruz mountains), but many of our favorite spots have not reopened after last summer's fires. Bummer. Work's also taken up more of our time which isn't necessarily a bad thing. We've been sticking closer to home than usual — day trips and quick overnighters to Hollister Hills, Big Sur, SLO, Ojai, Tahoe, Santa Cruz, etc.

I couldn't make Cruise Moab due to a wedding, but @codyaustin5 and I took advantage of the awesome spring weather in Moab to break in his 80-series driveline upgrades on the trails and to do some LCDC planning. We hit Fins 'n Things, explored Sand Flats Rd out to La Sal Pass, and wound our way down to Onion Creek via Thompson Canyon / Polar Mesa. We also did Poison Spider (well, as far as we could go before a massive traffic jam where we decided to turn around), Top of the World, camped near the Delores River at Robert's Bottom, and capped the trip with Sevenmile Rim including all the fun side trips off of that route. For future reference, Sevenmile Rim was an incredible trail that offers a bit of everything.











Some very boring but scenic footage (this is essentially raw footage that I haven't had time to edit down and don't expect to edit):





Sevenmile Rim and Poison Spider - https://youtu.be/JEUCPfHsqdE

What about some actual 200-Series tech?

The truck's at an age (68,000 miles) where I'm putting more time and energy into refining and preventative maintenance over further modification. I was pretty rough on the truck in Moab and spent a few weeks inspecting, fixing, and maintaining after the trip.
  • Skids: The BB skids saw some action on this trip and held up very, very well. The aluminum fuel tank skid caved in a bit around the middle and had some galling. I straightened it out with a hammer (had to remove it to do so, obvi) and ground down the areas that got snagged. Some of the hardware also needed to be replaced so I took this as an opportunity to remove all the skids, steam-clean the undercarriage, replace and reapply anti-sieze to the skid hardware.
  • Bumper: Not surprisingly, the rear bumper experienced some cosmetic damage (mainly along the lower lip) from ledges and scraping, but it was easy to grind down and touch up. I really enjoy wheeling in Moab with the Trail Tailor bumper much more than I did with the plastic.
  • Frame/Undercarriage: The rear diff drain plug got hit pretty hard and the metal of the plug was essentially "blended" into surrounding flange. Fortunately, it neither loosened nor was overly-torqued so I touched it up with a die grinder and will replace the plug the next time I change the fluid. I also took some hits on the frame that required attention.
  • Fluids: Oil change! Power steering looks good. Brake fluid looks good. The coolant needs replaced soon-ish as it's running a little acidic based on the uber-accurate $.10 test strip.
  • Driveline: Checked fluid levels and greased the driveshafts.
  • Aux Fuel: Replaced the charcoal canister (I flooded it last summer, oops), upgraded the vent line (kudos to @TeCKis300), replaced the VSV, and blew out the line leading to the VSV
  • Rock Lights: I installed rock lights a couple years ago and never got around to installing waterproof connectors (I like Deutsch connectors). They were all hardwired. I ended up replacing a lot of the wiring as some (but not all) of the split loom essentially disintegrated. Gotta love installing the same mod twice.
  • Interior/Exterior: Full at-home detail including applying Leatherique to the Terra seats, and clay + cut + polish + wax on the exterior.

Upgrades
  • Electrical: I cleaned up my aux wiring using some of Slee's new fancy bracketry. This should make maintenance and testing a little easier. (photo below)
  • Spare Tire Storage: A friend came back from J-burg with some gear from Camp Cover for me. I've been wanting to try these for a while... tire storage bags with a bit of protection on top of the tire. The bags are pretty amazing. My complete Snow Peak fire pit setup fits in the back-most pocket in one bag and I keep a utility mat in the second bag. The main storage area on each bag is completely empty and will be used for trash, dirty recovery gear, etc. on the trail. (photo below)
  • Gear: A good friend of ours picked up an 80-Series as her first off-road vehicle and she's essentially starting from scratch when it comes to gear. I took this as an opportunity to donate a bunch of recovery/emergency gear and tools to her cause and upgrade my own kit. Perhaps I'll cover this in more detail in another post, but it's been like Christmas receiving boxes from my favorite recovery and tooling product companies.
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More Maintenance...

Ahead of the Moab trip I replaced my serpentine belt and tensioner. I had also planned on changing the idler pulley but encountered a bit of surprise. Even after application of PB Blaster and heat, I was unable to remove the bolt from the pulley. Ugh. I didn't have a ton of room to work and I was worried about rounding the head of the bolt. I decided to check the torque and stopped at 100 ft-lbs (the spec is around 30-40, if I recall). I aborted at this point fearful that I'd break the bolt head off at home and that I'd be unable to replace it.

Long story short, the truck is going to Valley Hybrids in June to do the typical 75/100/125k maintenance items way ahead of schedule. Here's the punch-list so far...
  • Replace alternator (will keep the old alternator and replace the brushes as a spare)
  • Replace radiator
  • Replace fan shroud, bracket, clutch, fan itself, and coolant
  • Replace heater hose Ts
  • Replace water pump
  • Replace starter
  • Address idler stuck bolt and replace the pulley
I'll be curious to find out if there are more bolt issues with those other components on the front of the engine. I blame the Glenwood Springs Toyota tech who likely took parts off my destroyed engine and attached to the replacement engine with an impact disregarding torque specs and the dynamics of steel bolts in aluminum.

What's Next?

Well, each of my BP-51s is leaking to varying degrees. As far as I know ARB isn't servicing yet and stock is in short supply. I put in an order a few months ago with Filthy for a King 2.5 suspension. ETA is currently late summer but who knows. Along with the Kings...
  • 6 x Heritage bronze wheels are incoming
  • .75 inch spacers from Bora
  • Body mount chop
  • KDSS component replacements/fixes - the swaybar bushings aren't doing well so I'm going to replace those, do the KDSS relocation, replace the endlinks and attach on the outside of the arm thanks to the work from @Willy beamin, @Atwalz, @linuxgod
  • I'm doing most of this to simply make 34s fit better but I'm not ruling out larger tires in the future
  • I'm also looking into replacing the main FLA and aux AGM with lithium

Enjoyed the footage. Was this shot with the autovox or have you changed dash cams and I missed it?
 
A few updates and photos to follow...
  1. I made a couple flip-up tables for the rear bumper. I had intended for them to simply be prototypes for a to-be-machined-later version but am actually pretty happy with them as-is. The primary challenge is that there's less than 1 inch between the bumper and the tailgate... even less if you factor in deflection from bumper hits. The fancy hinges enable locking when deployed and stowed.
  2. Tires are on! The BBS bronze wheels look great wrapped in some pretty aggressive tires. I have a bit of fine tuning to do in the fender well, but the bigger surprise issue is that the 1-inch spacers are clearly not enough to miss the UCA. I knew it'd be close. I'm considering larger spacers, removing some material from the UCA, or trying some other UCAs. The good news is that the KDSS is a non-issue with the custom spacer. I need to do some wheeling to see if I've removed enough of the body mount material. I'm also very close to rubbing the rear bumper on the passenger side and suspect the thrust angle is too extreme. Guess I'll adjust the panhard.
  3. My slightly-tweaked KDSS spacers turned out really well! These push the sway bar another half inch forward (about as far as you can get it) and reduce the stress on the end links if you've already moved the links out of the housing.
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A few updates and photos to follow...
  1. I made a couple flip-up tables for the rear bumper. I had intended for them to simply be prototypes for a to-be-machined-later version but am actually pretty happy with them as-is. The primary challenge is that there's less than 1 inch between the bumper and the tailgate... even less if you factor in deflection from bumper hits. The fancy hinges enable locking when deployed and stowed.
  2. Tires are on! The BBS bronze wheels look great wrapped in some pretty aggressive tires. I have a bit of fine tuning to do in the fender well, but the bigger surprise issues is that the 1-inch spacers are clearly not enough to miss the UCA. I knew it'd be close. I'm considering larger spacers, removing some material from the UCA, or trying some other UCAs. The good news is that the KDSS is a non-issue with the custom spacer. I need to do some wheeling to see if I've removed enough of the body mount material. I'm also very close to rubbing the rear bumper on the passenger side and suspect the thrust angle is too extreme. Guess I'll adjust the panhard.
  3. My slightly-tweaked KDSS spacers turned out really well! These push the sway bar another half inch forward (about as far as you can get it) and reduces the stress on the end links if you've already moved the links out of the housing.
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I ****ING LOVE IT, NICE WORK!!!
 
Man that escalated quickly. Truck looks great.

How was it fitting those tires? Running wheel spacers?
 
Looks phenomenal! Nicely done @indycole. Looking forward to seeing it in person. What are your impressions of the tires.... I think you've previously run k02s and Ridgegrapplers if I am not mistaken.
 
Man that escalated quickly. Truck looks great.

How was it fitting those tires? Running wheel spacers?

Yeah, it started out with just swapping wheels with the existing tires. To be honest, I didn't internalize how dramatic the difference in offset is between OEM wheels and the 20mm Fuel wheels on my old tires. I didn't realize that I'd need spacers even with the 34s to correct the scrub radius and reduce rubbing. At that point, why not look into larger tires? Also, if I'm doing spacers, I may as well go ahead and do a complete brake job, too, right?

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On that note, a few fun facts about doing the brakes for 2016+ models :
  • The repair manual that's passed around these parts is based on the 2013 model year which means the process and torque specs for the hardware don't apply to the 2016.
  • Most critically, the caliper bolts need to be torqued to 133 ft-lb front / 114 ft-lb rear. That's a big difference from the earlier models which were around 75 ft-lb.
  • It looked like the new OEM bolts had some kind of light coating that I presume is a threadlocker? The repair manual didn't mention anything about adding additional threadlocker so I didn't. I'll update this post if I discover any new information. I'm thinking about going back in and adding a bit of blue.

Re: tire fitment... so far no issues during city driving aside from the UCA rub which I do need to sort out. I'm running 1 inch spacers. 1.25 may be enough to eliminate the UCA rubbing. I also have some additional fender liner molding to do but had already done quite a bit in advance. I also have a likely clearance issue with the rear bumper.

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mind showing the fancy hinges?

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Looks phenomenal! Nicely done @indycole. Looking forward to seeing it in person. What are your impressions of the tires.... I think you've previously run k02s and Ridgegrapplers if I am not mistaken.

Thanks! There's not much to say about the new tires, yet, aside from that they look awesome. They're much more aggressive than KO2s and are probably on par with the RGs.
 
@indycole I am going to be installing the Tough Dog adjustable panhard bar here soon and wanted to know how yours is working out.
My goal is to recenter the rear axle and reduce/eliminate the thrust angle.

Comparing alignment specs from when I was stock I had .02 degrees and now lifted i am seeing .17 degrees. Also I noticed the driver side rear tire is poking out about 1/2" more then the passenger side.
Any tips to get things lined during the install.
So far it sounds like I would need to extend the adjustable rod half the distance (which is about 1/4") longer then the axle is off center to realign things back to "normal". Are you aware of any other variables that effect thrust angle?
 
@indycole I am going to be installing the Tough Dog adjustable panhard bar here soon and wanted to know how yours is working out.
My goal is to recenter the rear axle and reduce/eliminate the thrust angle.

Comparing alignment specs from when I was stock I had .02 degrees and now lifted i am seeing .17 degrees. Also I noticed the driver side rear tire is poking out about 1/2" more then the passenger side.
Any tips to get things lined during the install.
So far it sounds like I would need to extend the adjustable rod half the distance (which is about 1/4") longer then the axle is off center to realign things back to "normal". Are you aware of any other variables that effect thrust angle?

I'm actually going to be adjusting mine over the next couple days and will make some notes if there's anything helpful. I haven't touched it since Jason installed it a couple years ago.

I'm not sure if some combination of pinion angles, etc. would affect thrust angle. A twisted rear axle or frame could play a role here, lol :)
 
I'm actually going to be adjusting mine over the next couple days and will make some notes if there's anything helpful. I haven't touched it since Jason installed it a couple years ago.

I'm not sure if some combination of pinion angles, etc. would affect thrust angle. A twisted rear axle or frame could play a role here, lol :)
Cool looking forward to hearing how the adjustments go. Based on my limited understanding and research on panhard bars it sounds like by simply loosening up the jam nut and firmly turning the bar the frame will shift right or left….seems almost too easy and I can’t imagine that it will go this smooth for me lol. Crossing my fingers the bar does the trick, I haven’t noticed anything out of the ordinary in regards to driving manners. Tracks straight and doesn’t pull.
 
Cool looking forward to hearing how the adjustments go. Based on my limited understanding and research on panhard bars it sounds like by simply loosening up the jam nut and firmly turning the bar the frame will shift right or left….seems almost too easy and I can’t imagine that it will go this smooth for me lol. Crossing my fingers the bar does the trick, I haven’t noticed anything out of the ordinary in regards to driving manners. Tracks straight and doesn’t pull.
That is pretty much how I adjusted mine. I lifted the truck before adjusting and set it down before each measurment (straightedge across tire, distance to fender) until it was the same on each side. Not sure the lifting/setting back down was necessary but pretty easy with a lift…
 

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