Builds indycole's 2016 200 Series Build and Retrospective

[TLC2013]

That is pretty much how I adjusted mine. I lifted the truck before adjusting and set it down before each measurment (straightedge across tire, distance to fender) until it was the same on each side. Not sure the lifting/setting back down was necessary but pretty easy with a lift…

I have read a few different approaches some say lift it (support rear axle on jack stands) others say to leave the weight of the vehicle on the suspension for the adjustments to be made. I think I even read that one should lift the rear completly off the ground with the suspensiom at full droop. Which way did you go? Did the adjustable panhard bar also reduce/eliminate the thrust angle?

 

[indycole]

@TLC2013 here are some notes on the panhard adjustment...

• I was unable to adjust the stacked nuts with the panhard on the vehicle. I went pretty crazy with adjustable wrenches as well as a chisel and hammer. No go.
• I let the stacked nuts soak in PB Blaster overnight even though there were no signs of corrosion. This didn't help.
• I removed the panhard from the vehicle and hit the stacked nuts with a torch, the 40oz ball peen, and more time with the chisel. No dice.
• @TRAIL TAILOR recommended more leverage. That did the trick. I clamped the second nut in a vise and used a 42" pry bar in the bushing sleeve to very easily brake the nut. I used the same technique to break the second nut though it didn't require much force at all.
• My passenger side stuck out from the fender about 3/4" and the driver side about 1/8". I adjusted the panhard by 5/16".
• The passenger side just takes a single bolt so I put that in first thinking it'd be easier to install the bolt and nut on the driver side. This was impossible to do with the wheels on the ground. It was a simple procedure while jacking up the rear axle though as at a certain height everything lined up. I did already have the frame on chassis stands but I don't think it would have mattered.
• I lowered the axle, hand tightened (and then some) the hardware, and drove around the block. Then, I torqued everything down to spec (111 ft-lbs on my 2016).
• Both passenger and driver side now extend equally beyond the fenders. I think this is solid evidence of the thrust angle being in spec but I'll need to wait for a proper test drive.
• This adjustment provided just enough clearance for my passenger side tire to now clear the rear bumper.

Also, I'm happy to report that the new tires survived running over my Snap-On flood light and M12 portable band saw. I'm sad to report that the band saw did not survive. Why couldn't the device with a no questions warranty have died? I just bought this M12 bandsaw like two weeks ago after using the massive one for a few years. Ugh.

 

[jbs11]

I have read a few different approaches some say lift it (support rear axle on jack stands) others say to leave the weight of the vehicle on the suspension for the adjustments to be made. I think I even read that one should lift the rear completly off the ground with the suspensiom at full droop. Which way did you go? Did the adjustable panhard bar also reduce/eliminate the thrust angle?

I lifted the rear wheels completely off the ground to adjust. My thinking was that the axle would “slide” sideways better without the friction of the tires (though I‘m sure the is enough slop in the sidewall for such small lateral movement even if the treads stayed fixed). I measured whether it was centered after lowering with the vehicle at normal height though.

 

[tbisaacs]

How have the new tires been around town?

I can reliably make my 295s rub when turning into a slightly uphill entrance of a parking lot and your new tires look at least an inch bigger.

 

[TLC2013]

@TLC2013 here are some notes on the panhard adjustment...

• I was unable to adjust the stacked nuts with the panhard on the vehicle. I went pretty crazy with adjustable wrenches as well as a chisel and hammer. No go.
• I let the stacked nuts soak in PB Blaster overnight even though there were no signs of corrosion. This didn't help.
• I removed the panhard from the vehicle and hit the stacked nuts with a torch, the 40oz ball peen, and more time with the chisel. No dice.
• @TRAIL TAILOR recommended more leverage. That did the trick. I clamped the second nut in a vise and used a 42" pry bar in the bushing sleeve to very easily brake the nut. I used the same technique to break the second nut though it didn't require much force at all.
• My passenger side stuck out from the fender about 3/4" and the driver side about 1/8". I adjusted the panhard by 5/16".
• The passenger side just takes a single bolt so I put that in first thinking it'd be easier to install the bolt and nut on the driver side. This was impossible to do with the wheels on the ground. It was a simple procedure while jacking up the rear axle though as at a certain height everything lined up. I did already have the frame on chassis stands but I don't think it would have mattered.
• I lowered the axle, hand tightened (and then some) the hardware, and drove around the block. Then, I torqued everything down to spec (111 ft-lbs on my 2016).
• Both passenger and driver side now extend equally beyond the fenders. I think this is solid evidence of the thrust angle being in spec but I'll need to wait for a proper test drive.
• This adjustment provided just enough clearance for my passenger side tire to now clear the rear bumper.

View attachment 2725995

Also, I'm happy to report that the new tires survived running over my Snap-On flood light and M12 portable band saw. I'm sad to report that the band saw did not survive. Why couldn't the device with a no questions warranty have died? I just bought this M12 bandsaw like two weeks ago after using the massive one for a few years. Ugh.

View attachment 2725994

Thanks for the detailed notes. What a bear to break those jam nuts loose. Nice job sticking with it! I send my condolences, bummer about the new saw.

 

[1world1love]

@TLC2013 here are some notes on the panhard adjustment...


Also, I'm happy to report that the new tires survived running over my Snap-On flood light and M12 portable band saw. I'm sad to report that the band saw did not survive. Why couldn't the device with a no questions warranty have died? I just bought this M12 bandsaw like two weeks ago after using the massive one for a few years. Ugh.

View attachment 2725994

Looks like a factory defect to me.....

 

[indycole]

How have the new tires been around town?

I can reliably make my 295s rub when turning into a slightly uphill entrance of a parking lot and your new tires look at least an inch bigger.

So far no complaints around town. They're still very, very grippy. I have a feeling I'm going to be tweaking things for a while.

I did switch to 1.25" spacers after running the 1" spacers for only a day. The UCA rubbing is down to a wisp at full lock. The body mount, pinch weld, and whatever remains of my fender liner are in good shape. Surprisingly, after adding the larger spacers I'm darn close to the KDSS even after moving it forward 1.5 inches. It totally clears but I was expecting more room there. I've done some prework on the top of the fender liner with a heat gun and pushing in the mounting tabs a bit but I need some time offroad to see if there's further rubbing.

 

[linuxgod]

Nice KDSS relo. I have the aluminum bars to do the same but not enough time to drill and swap before the LCDC. Excellent to see this works as I expected!

 

[indycole]

A fun delivery for a post-LCDC project.

 

[Gazziza]

A fun delivery for a post-LCDC project.

View attachment 2735757

2.5 or 3.0? I'm having trouble deciding which one to get lol

 

[indycole]

2.5 or 3.0? I'm having trouble deciding which one to get lol

2.5 — I went into this expecting to walk away with the 3.0 but Ben strongly recommended the 2.5 for my case. Pleasantly surprised to save a couple bucks

 

[kennyao30]

2.5 — I went into this expecting to walk away with the 3.0 but Ben strongly recommended the 2.5 for my case. Pleasantly surprised to save a couple bucks

Did you wind up getting compression adjusters?

You are going to love them, bring them to ouray and we can throw them on in a parking lot.

 

[indycole]

Did you wind up getting compression adjusters?

You are going to love them, bring them to ouray and we can throw them on in a parking lot.

Yeah, I got the adjusters. I'm looking forward to making some quick adjustments rather than getting out tools and laying on the ground as with the BP-51s.

 

[Gazziza]

2.5 — I went into this expecting to walk away with the 3.0 but Ben strongly recommended the 2.5 for my case. Pleasantly surprised to save a couple bucks

Yeah I agree, while the 3.0 are so damn sexy with their finned reservoirs and the idea of a 3.0 shocks sounds stupidly awesome it's probably overkill for my needs. I ended up going with 2.5's as well. Plus you likely save at least $1.5K when you factor in the cost of 3.0 front and rears as well. Common sense won this round

What spring rate did Ben recommend in your case with such a built out rig? I don't have bumpers yet but toying around with the idea of them in the future.

 

[indycole]

What spring rate did Ben recommend in your case with such a built out rig? I don't have bumpers yet but toying around with the idea of them in the future.

Independently, Ben recommended the Dobinson C59-547 880lb spring. They're sold out everywhere so I don't have a pair to throw on with the installation. It's fine, though, because I'm planning sticking with my Trail Tailor Tourflex HD tall, tapered springs plus Airbag Man kit for towing. That's been a very flexible setup for the past couple years.

I have some OME 2724s and 2725s on the shelf if needed. I may still pick up the Dobinsons to try out once they're available again.

 

[TeCKis300]

Pretty epic developments! Haven't found my way into the recent updates in this thread until now. 35.5" is monstrous especially with as wide as those are. Glad to hear you're able to sort through the clearance issues.

Wondering what you're thinking with the vertical clearance? Even if you can clear the fender lip, it's most likely there will be hard interference with the steel inner fender parts by about .5". I say this because most of us with larger spec tires around 34.5" see evidence of mild contact at full stuff. Thinking perhaps to limiting uptravel or body lift?

 

[indycole]

Pretty epic developments! Haven't found my way into the recent updates in this thread until now. 35.5" is monstrous especially with as wide as those are. Glad to hear you're able to sort through the clearance issues.

Wondering what you're thinking with the vertical clearance? Even if you can clear the fender lip, it's most likely there will be hard interference with the steel inner fender parts by about .5". I say this because most of us with larger spec tires around 34.5" see evidence of mild contact at full stuff. Thinking perhaps to limiting uptravel or body lift?

TBH, I'm still pretty anxious about the clearancing. I've done about all I can in advance of some experimentation on the trail. I normally don't bring a heat gun in my already bloated tool kit, but one will be joining me in the San Juans next week.

It's going to be quite close with the fender lip. I've pushed the liner clip mounts in and done some preliminary heat gun work. I'm expecting it to clear the fender lip but still rub on the top. I'm adding some Timbren bump stops up front which should help a bit.

The rear should be fine with my airbags limiting up-travel. Of course, they might just explode. We'll jump off that bridge when we get to it, as they say. I am intrigued and open to a body lift but I put that on the backburner for the first round of fitting these. I just didn't have time to remove the Trekboxx middle and rear systems, get the truck to a proper shop for the lift, and reinstall everything prior to LCDC. I'm thinking even a 3/8" lift could be a good call.

I may also try some four-wheel burnouts to remove some rubber. That seems like the obvious solution.

On a serious note, I actually did better than expected fuel-economy wise. I averaged 12 mpg (adjusted) running ~85 mph from San Jose to Salt Lake. This also includes a stretch where it took us 3 hours to travel the 60 miles to get out of the Bay Area.

Separately, I got the P0441 EVAP code again. I just replaced the charcoal canister, blew out all the fuel lines, replaced the VSV, replaced the tiny vapor filter thing, and upgraded the vent line. I had no issues until my first fill up (from nearly empty) at a Maverik in Reno. The drive on 80 from Sacramento to Reno was smooth, temperatures were high, and there were no issues or codes. The next day, I filled up the main to about 11/12, put 12 gallons in the aux, and started heading west. After 30-45 minutes we started smelling gas. I pulled over and sure enough... boiling gas. It settled down after lunch, I filled up, and now I'm getting P0441 codes every so often.

I know it sounds crazy, but the one constant with my issues is Nevada/Utah (mainly Maverik) fuel.

 

[linuxgod]

Regular or premium gas? I’d seriously try a few tanks of the expensive stuff if you’re getting boiling fuel in hot areas.

Fwiw my rotopax has 93 octane in it right now and has need to be vented in 2 weeks despite sitting in the sun, some 5k elevation changes, and a few 88-90 degree days

 

[indycole]

Regular or premium gas? I’d seriously try a few tanks of the expensive stuff if you’re getting boiling fuel in hot areas.

Fwiw my rotopax has 93 octane in it right now and has need to be vented in 2 weeks despite sitting in the sun, some 5k elevation changes, and a few 88-90 degree days

Yeah, I almost always run premium on road trips.

 

[indycole]

We’ve been visiting some old haunts around the four corners area. Also, pulled off the highway near Mexican Hat to check rear well clearance. Looks like I may need to get creative.