Builds indycole's 2016 200 Series Build and Retrospective (1 Viewer)

[TexAZ]

@murf is the service manager of camelback Toyota in phoenix. He is a cruiser head through and through and a solid member of the local club, copper state cruisers.
Camelback has a good team of techs and parts support people that are extremely knowledgeable.
They were instrumental in rounding up all the little parts that went into the tundra brake swap.
You can't beat their prices on parts.

Now back to your build thread already in progress

 

[indycole]

And... my OEM battery died after a year and half. I recently noticed a ton of acid creep up out of nowhere, cleaned it off, and then the battery lasted like two more days. It's technically within warranty but the local dealer was not able to do the work to replace it quickly enough (going on a little road trip this weekend) so I popped into Batteries Plus and bought this Group 31 X2 Power monstrosity. It apparently has 1150 CCA and they gave me a decent discount on it.

 

[Atwalz]

And... my OEM battery died after a year and half. I recently noticed a ton of acid creep up out of nowhere, cleaned it off, and then the battery lasted like two more days. It's technically within warranty but the local dealer was not able to do the work to replace it quickly enough (going on a little road trip this weekend) so I popped into Batteries Plus and bought this Group 31 X2 Power monstrosity. It apparently has 1150 CCA and they gave me a decent discount on it.

View attachment 1524358

What's part number on battery? I am gonna switch mine when factory one die in an year.

 

[indycole]

What's part number on battery? I am gonna switch mine when factory one die in an year.

SLI31AGMDPM -- I suspect it's made by East Penn / Deka.

 

[indycole]

As I alluded to in another thread, I've been exploring ways to squeak out a bit more storage space in the rear cargo area. I built a small birch plywood box to reclaim some storage space below the refrigerator. However, even with a sliding drawer, actually using the refrigerator that high would be impossible... unless there was a way to tilt the fridge down.

In conjunction with the box, I installed an Alu-Cab Tilting Fridge slide. So far so good... I really like the setup though we'll see how it holds up offroad.

I had originally intended on a locking cabinet door on the front of the box but I may try some lightweight netting.

 

[FALKOR8]

man.. this keeps getting better and better!

 

[divemedic]

Coming from the child passenger safety industry - I applaud your use of tie down straps for items being carried inside the vehicle. Most would be surprised to learn the rate of injury to passengers (especially in the case of a roll-over) caused by unsecured items in the back of a mini-van or SUV (the two most popular vehicle choices for families with kids. Even things like 30 lb strollers can come flying at your head at the same rate of speed you were just travelling..... F=M*A

Oh, and I'm also totally jealous of the cool stuff you are putting on!!

As an medic, I've seen a baby killed by milk jug and a man by a small tool box who would have otherwise been fine. It blows my mind to see some cars packed. Especially vans packed to the brim. Kudos to to anyone who does secure their stuff. That said remember to calculate fail points. You stay may have a 700lb rating. But the bolts holding the drawers may have 500lb sheer rating and a 20,000lb pull rating.

 

[wardharris]

As an medic, I've seen a baby killed by milk jug and a man by a small tool box who would have otherwise been fine. It blows my mind to see some cars packed. Especially vans packed to the brim. Kudos to to anyone who does secure their stuff. That said remember to calculate fail points. You stay may have a 700lb rating. But the bolts holding the drawers may have 500lb sheer rating and a 20,000lb pull rating.

Nic is a guy to listen to......

 

[indycole]

As an medic, I've seen a baby killed by milk jug and a man by a small tool box who would have otherwise been fine. It blows my mind to see some cars packed. Especially vans packed to the brim. Kudos to to anyone who does secure their stuff. That said remember to calculate fail points. You stay may have a 700lb rating. But the bolts holding the drawers may have 500lb sheer rating and a 20,000lb pull rating.

Good points all around. All in all I'm within load limits for the drawers. I did happen to upgrade the grade 8.8 screws to 10.9 or 12.9 and keep dynamic stresses in mind with both materials and hardware. Full FEA forthcoming

I expect the first failure point to be fender washers being pulled from though the particle board drawer tops.

On a side note, I also run a cargo net when possible.

 

[TonyP]

Good points all around. All in all I'm within load limits for the drawers. I did happen to upgrade the grade 8.8 screws to 10.9 or 12.9 and keep dynamic stresses in mind with both materials and hardware. Full FEA forthcoming

I expect the first failure point to be fender washers being pulled from though the particle board drawer tops.

On a side note, I also run a cargo net when possible.

Which cargo net do you have? I need to pick one up.

 

[indycole]

Which cargo net do you have? I need to pick one up.

Raingler

 

[vabluefish]

Raingler

Does it work with the second row seats in place and up in normal config? I.e., people sitting in the second row?

 

[SWUtah]

And... my OEM battery died after a year and half. I recently noticed a ton of acid creep up out of nowhere, cleaned it off, and then the battery lasted like two more days. It's technically within warranty but the local dealer was not able to do the work to replace it quickly enough (going on a little road trip this weekend) so I popped into Batteries Plus and bought this Group 31 X2 Power monstrosity. It apparently has 1150 CCA and they gave me a decent discount on it.

View attachment 1524358

Anyone else ever service there battery every couple years by prying the caps off and add distilled water seems to make them last along time

 

[indycole]

Does it work with the second row seats in place and up in normal config? I.e., people sitting in the second row?

I'll have to give that a try. I'd expect that it would work but the seats would press on the net. If you take a look at the photos for the front seat cargo net you'll notice that the net presses into the seats. I've only run my net when the second row is removed. I have the seats in the truck now so I'll give it try the next time I'm working on something.

 

[divemedic]

Good points all around. All in all I'm within load limits for the drawers. I did happen to upgrade the grade 8.8 screws to 10.9 or 12.9 and keep dynamic stresses in mind with both materials and hardware. Full FEA forthcoming

I expect the first failure point to be fender washers being pulled from though the particle board drawer tops.

On a side note, I also run a cargo net when possible.

I had a Pajero iO for a bit. I ripped out the rear seats and built a deck to support camp and dive trips. The failure point would have been the bolts ripping out of the floor pan in this case. I used 1" marine ply. The seat track rails were recessed to 3/4". I used 3/4 ss shanks to "sleeve" the wood and 2" ss washers on the underside of the wood. The board itself was mounted into the seat fitting (6 points) and cargo hook fittings (4 points). I used a combination of grade 8 and grade 10 ss hardware for assembly to prevent sheering and pull forces. I was lucky enough to have access to 5k pound seat rail fittings. I felt confident that I had 3x weight of 8 steel 100 dive tanks in restraint. One can never be too safe with stuff like that. It amazed me when I saw guys toss steel 100s at 3500psi in their trunks or back seat.

I'll be doing something similar with my 77 at some point.

Nic is a guy to listen to......

Thank you Ward

 

[indycole]

I had a Pajero iO for a bit. I ripped out the rear seats and built a deck to support camp and dive trips. The failure point would have been the bolts ripping out of the floor pan in this case. I used 1" marine ply. The seat track rails were recessed to 3/4". I used 3/4 ss shanks to "sleeve" the wood and 2" ss washers on the underside of the wood. The board itself was mounted into the seat fitting (6 points) and cargo hook fittings (4 points). I used a combination of grade 8 and grade 10 ss hardware for assembly to prevent sheering and pull forces. I was lucky enough to have access to 5k pound seat rail fittings. I felt confident that I had 3x weight of 8 steel 100 dive tanks in restraint. One can never be too safe with stuff like that. It amazed me when I saw guys toss steel 100s at 3500psi in their trunks or back seat.

I'll be doing something similar with my 77 at some point.

Thank you Ward

Nice! The SS shanks are a nice touch. If I had to do the entire storage install over again I'd look into first building a plywood platform from which to build upon that leveraged all the frame points. Even the ARB drawers leave a couple mounting points unused.

 

[divemedic]

I think you build is wonderful by the way. I started life learning carpentry from my grandfather so that helped immensely. I'll tag you when I start my drawers. I'm still debating how I want to do it. I'm still not 100% on what I do and don't want in it and knowing the truck is going to be passed on to my son I'm trying to consider how it could evolve with time and needs. If your interested I can send you formulas on calculating restraint and load displacement. It would be aircraft load planning standards. Adjustments would be needed to correct the difference in flight speed vs driving speed. Otherwise it's relevant.

 

[indycole]

I think you build is wonderful by the way. I started life learning carpentry from my grandfather so that helped immensely. I'll tag you when I start my drawers. I'm still debating how I want to do it. I'm still not 100% on what I do and don't want in it and knowing the truck is going to be passed on to my son I'm trying to consider how it could evolve with time and needs. If your interested I can send you formulas on calculating restraint and load displacement. It would be aircraft load planning standards. Adjustments would be needed to correct the difference in flight speed vs driving speed. Otherwise it's relevant.

Thanks! I'd love to see the calculations as I feel like I'm reinventing the wheel every time I do some deeper analysis. For instance, with this most recent upgrade I debated between 1/2 and 3/4 baltic birch and the strength I'd get out of screws going into the end grain of the plywood. I knew there'd be a lot of torque with a fully loaded fridge suspended with the tilting mechanism. That's some significant torque on the top of the cabinet being transferred down into the drawers.

If you haven't seen them, yet, I'd recommend checking out the Trekboxx drawers at least for inspiration. They're expensive, but what I've spent on storage (iteratively, by buying solutions, working through them, selling/discarding, and buying again) is probably approaching that price. I also like the Goose Gear concept that Paul May from Equipt had done to his 200 series. The system runs from the hatch to the front seat though the second row is removable. As practical as my second row storage box is, I'm slightly bothered by the fact that stylistically it doesn't blend in with the rear.

 

[TexAZ]

Cole, have you thought about putting extra storage on top of the fridge instead of making the fridge sit higher. if you aren't going to access the fridge while in the truck, it would make it easier to get stuff out and lower the center of gravity having the fridge lower.

 

[indycole]

Cole, have you thought about putting extra storage on top of the fridge instead of making the fridge sit higher. if you aren't going to access the fridge while in the truck, it would make it easier to get stuff out and lower the center of gravity having the fridge lower.

Yeah, that was initially my approach but prototypes posed some problems. However, I would still need the fridge to roll out with the shelf remaining in place and there wasn't a feasible way to do that without eating up too much room to the sides of the drawer. But, yeah, I'd definitely have preferred to keep the fridge lower.