Impending Vortec Swap (2 Viewers)

[lazy]

4WELDING POINTERS NEEDED.

A year ago I watched some YouTube videos and bought a harbor freight welder on sale (I think for less than $200). I did my 4x4 labs bumper with Flux core and it is passable. It's not going to fall apart is about all the credit it gets.

I've upgraded to gas but only really only done 2 small projects since (think obese nephew sitting on my 2 and 4 yo picnic table).

So I think I got the welding thing down ok for flat surfaces and vertical. I'm comfortable with the motor mounts.

But the under side is not that easy to weld. I turned the voltage down and that seemed to help, but that was after I pretty much threw all my welder had at it. It is way boogery. I'm going to pick up a die grinder tomorrow and clean up. Is it best to just turn down the juice and seal up nice for corrosion purposes?

 

[jkdowty]

If your just sealing it up from corrosion get you some seam sealer it will work a ton better... Welding overhead you should be able to weld using the same settings you used for flat...

 

[alia176]

It was mainly the closed loop system for wiring simplicity. The I read Dcc had the best unit out, it just takes some time to get it. I can't wait to see the gauges either. 3 more weeks. I like to pretend that I'd holding me up (I'd like to get the sending units put on the motor before I put for good). But I need to finish tcase and steering box.

Sorry for this dumb question but to my feeble mind, seems like going with the GM PCM for fan control would be easy, peasy but obviously that's not the case. Otherwise, you wouldn't be introducing yet another gadget into this mix. Can you elaborate? I'm guessing that the PWM controller does far better PID control of the coolant temp than the PCM?

 

[DieselDriver]

Same heat range for overhead welding, if you have a second cone you try shortening it on the end where the wire comes out.
It helps...

 

[lazy]

Sorry for this dumb question but to my feeble mind, seems like going with the GM PCM for fan control would be easy, peasy but obviously that's not the case. Otherwise, you wouldn't be introducing yet another gadget into this mix. Can you elaborate? I'm guessing that the PWM controller does far better PID control of the coolant temp than the PCM?

It would require relays to go from the GM PCM. I assume it is simple enough to source and wire up. But, then there is the question of using stock temp sender or relocate, tapping lines, etc.

The DCC unit gets installed, lines run to fan, lines run to battery, run the temp sensor and you're done. Temp sensor is a friction thing, some people don't like jamming a sensor between some fins. Tap an A/c line so it always runs at least at 50% when engine temp is not hot enough and you're set.

The advantages are:
*Fans on when A/c is running
*fans increase speed with temp. The higher the temp, the harder the fans run. You can set temp all the way down to 145 deg when the fans come on
*closed loop, and simple (IMO) to install.

 

[DieselDriver]

Yes it requires relays, you can use an item like this, I think this is two speed, and DCC sounds like it's variable? Which is what I was after when I got his first model

Universal Dual Speed Fan Harness

 

[lazy]

Yes, DCC is variable, and not much more expensive than the relays above.

It arrived today and is much smaller than I expected.

 

[lazy]

7 weeks later....i can't imagine doing the crawler gears pulling pieces off the truck.

Got the motor mounts burnt in. The bottoms are ugly as I mentioned earlier. I Cleaned up bare metal and hit with southern polyurethane epoxy primer, 2 coats. Finished off with some krylon spray paint.

I will power wash Bay one last time and remove a few cables. Hope to get the fuel system run this week.

Dakota digital gauges aren't suppose to ship until the 29th. Hopefully rad ships soon.

Looking at Tru cool coolers, both oil and transmission. Anyone use them? I'm thinking the 4590. Also, if braided like everything says rated for fuel and oil, I assume it's OK? Just read that you should use fuel line for oil lines, but I think that was talking about rubber?

 

[DieselDriver]

I thought I read some where you a thermostat for the oil cooler?
Seems to be the only item missing?
I was looking at these guy for the oil pressure port, near the pan

Oiling System | Improved Racing

 

[lazy]

Am I SOL? How do I fix this? Just some gorilla glue? or drill out and find some vacuum fitting that will slide in?

 

[slow95z]

just get another intake. they are stupid cheap. if you want a little more top end the LS6 intake is good. if you want cheap just get another truck intake. if you want to go all out get a FAST or something else along those lines.

 

[lazy]

just get another intake. they are stupid cheap. if you want a little more top end the LS6 intake is good. if you want cheap just get another truck intake. if you want to go all out get a FAST or something else along those lines.

used ones are cheap. I'm debating spending another $100 or just trying to epoxy it.....

 

[jkdowty]

used ones are cheap. I'm debating spending another $100 or just trying to epoxy it.....

Epoxy it, get it going, then swap out later.... Least that's what I'm doing cause mine has a big crack in it from the wreck the donor vehicle was in.

 

[canman]

Try JB Weld. Used some recently on a hairline crack on the exhaust manifold of my boat and it's still holding. Knock on wood.

 

[lazy]

Ordered a used one off eBay. A little under $100 and came with sensors fuel rail and injectors. Unknown condition, but looks clean in pics and no browning anywhere on plastic. But the purge valve also got broken, so I may have saved a little there as well....

 

[lazy]

Hoping to wrap up fuel system soon.

Had to cut lines out....

Supra pump has more girth. But super secure with radiator clamp. Had to extend wires and I keep buying the wrong size nuts for the posts...

A little janky....

New gasket....

 

[slow95z]

good you are getting more injectors. the #7 loves to get clogged up from trash in the fuel rail.

 

[lazy]

M12x1.25 is thread for top of pump to pressure line. Trouble is, building something that is low profile to clear the access cover....

 

[lazy]

Posts on denso Supra pump are 2 different sizes. Pos is m4, neg is m5 for those who care....

 

[lazy]

regarding pressure line for fuel....

I can't seem to find 12x1.25 to an6 banjo assembly, so I might have to frankenstein something. earl's makes a 12x1.5 banjo to -6an, so close....

there is 12x1.25 banjo to -4an, so adding a -4an female to -6an male. $18.50....plus a hose end....i don't like all these connections, but it should work.

12mm x 1.25 to 4AN Turbo Banjo Bolt Fitting Kit M12 Water

Black -4 Female -6 Male AN Flare Fitting Expander Adapter 4AN to 6AN