Impending Vortec Swap (2 Viewers)

[lazy]

I'm deep down a rabbit hole, and I think im about to find Lewis Carroll od'd on acid.

This stupid "crawler gear" afternoon install has drug on for 4 weeks now. And it looks to make it to 5. Probsbly 6nsince 4th of july is next weekend. I'll never again fix something that isn't broken and not known to fail very often. But seeing as I have given the front output shaft the business with my 2 pounder, my replace a seal "while you're in there" just added a bearing most likely. And why does everyone say the "duck bill" snap ring pliers (technically lock ring) are the bees knees, but no one sells them?

In other news, what is behind this star bolt on the front housing? When I ripped the center diff locker, I swear something flew out and hit my forehead....

 

[slow95z]

I was pretty sure when we put an ls in an s10 that had a 4.3 we reprogrammed the ecumenical to work with the v6 tach. Been a few years but I thought hptuners did it for us and made the stock tach work.

 

[lazy]

Another victory this weekend....

 

[lazy]

In case anyone cares....

Steering box return is a M17x1.5 thread. If wanting to do a steel braided line opposed to cutting old line and getting a fitting for the GM pump pressed on, you'll need one of these (and the only place I found that supplies them). #6 JIC x 17mm-1.5 I.F. Return Adapter for Toyota-SF07 : Steering Hose and Fittings, Fittings Only | PSC Motorsports - performance steering components, power steering

Inlet is M16x1.5 thread and sourced with greater ease.

Edit: sorry, trying to work and do this at the same time. For the return, you won't need a fitting pressed on and you can run through the stock cooler....

 

[lazy]

@AWESOMEvoltron stopped by to give me a hand today. A second set of eyes was a big help to see where the motor sat. We both think it is pretty good. At his suggestion, I bolted up a few pieces of the t case and got the drive shafts hung....

Motor in pic above is nose up. Not much I can do about it. As the ac compressor is probably less than a 1/4" above the cross member.

Front drive shafts above. It's a tatton DC. DC rubs when at the t case. So, I flipped and there is plenty of clearance and probably won't ever hit. Maybe I don't need DC, I will install new u joints in my OE ds and I'll try out once I get the rig moving..

Above is the money shot, with front to diff.

Rear ds.

I think I'm good to burn these mounts in!

If anyone sees any tweaks they would make, I'm all ears.....

 

[slow95z]

looks good to me but i would get a new front shaft. the whole point of the DC is to put that end at the tcase. i would think you could get one made with spicer joints that is small enough to fit in there.

 

[lazy]

That drive shaft has Spicer u's. I'll have to drive and see how it does. Then I'll spend money if I have a problem. But I do agree, the DC joint had almost all the benefit at the tcase. I have a 4" lift and my growl didn't go away with the DC shaft, so when I load up the front and slap in new u's, I may be ok....?

 

[slow95z]

Only one way to find out

 

[lazy]

Yep. And I'm done fixing problems I don't know exist.

 

[MarkN]

yeah, I'm sure sub $5k is possible. I know @rockrod ran his with a "stock" (either koyo or TYC1918) rad and eventually the mechanical GM fan. I updated my spreadsheet last night, and I'm just sitting under $8k. I assume there may be another $700 in extra stuff (I still have a/c hoses, PS hoses etc), but it is hard to imagine going over that. I bought some extras a normal swap wouldn't have (e.g. $350 4l80e master rebuild kit, maybe $500 total so far), and the LQ4 is more than a LM7, so you can maybe shave a $1000 off with motor alone? I also got a motor with 90k miles....

So, motor ($1000), rad ($1350 shipped), transmission extras ($500) and gauges ($1000) should put you under $5k based on what I spent. Granted, if you want your stock gauges to work and you're not handy with microprocessors, you'll need to shell out a couple hundred bucks if for "plug n' play" speedo and tach converters, new sending units etc.... I'm also planning on making some MarkN CC boxes, so the stock CC will work. Whether I buy the stuff to make 1 or 10 of them, it is virtually the same. And once I have it figured out, making them shouldn't take too long....I know there are a few people here locally that have been helping me out that I'll gift to them if I can ever figure it out.

In other news....after sleeping on it last night, I am going to move the mounts again. I think they need to be lowered about 1/2". That will buy me some precious space for the hood, and still leave a little buffer so the A/C belt tensioner isn't sitting on that cross member. I can adjust it up a bit with a couple washers, but adjusting down will be a major pain once everything is welded on....

Great job... Let me know if you need any help with the CC..

 

[lazy]

@MarkN thanks! Hopefully I got it coverEd with a EE buddy helping out. He's now a medical doctor and obviously a bit out of practice, so we may need a bit of help...I just need the picaxe shipment to come in. They sent it registered mail, so I have to go to post office to pick it up....

 

[lazy]

It's a cold day in hell....Brian Baskins shipped the delta controller before both the radiator and Dakota Digital gauges shipped....I was planning 6 + weeks for the delta controller.

In a side note, DD needs 5-6 weeks lead time for their gauges. And Steel Nutz seems to need 3-4 weeks, not the 2 mentioned.

 

[DieselDriver]

Delta controls... Same company that makes pwm fan controls?

 

[lazy]

@DieselDriver Yes, same company. Delta Current Control, owned by Brian Baskins. I know people mainly come on the interwebz to complain, but for a one man shop who has the patents on the technology, a couple weeks turn around is pretty good.

 

[DieselDriver]

No complaints here, didn't know the guy still made controls.
I used one of his older PWM fan controls one my cars

 

[lazy]

I assume you like(d) it? It is supposed to be the best there is....

 

[DieselDriver]

This one was from a few years back, the product has since changed some.

The PWM certainly did its job, and worked ok as a stand alone controller. I didn't like the temp probe that push into fins on the radiator! Also the temp probe wire goes onto these little tiny pins and the connection was not secure. In the end I swapped over to relays...

Not sure what kit you got, but you can see the pins on FK kits, also not sure he still uses the same temp probe, but that is part of his patent.

Not bashing in any way! It did work! I just didn't like the few points

 

[lazy]

Yeah, I read about the temp probe into the fins. In a closed loop you'll have to tap somewhere.... But my research shows it is the best pwm controller. Time will tell how it works out....

 

[DieselDriver]

I'm sure it will be fine!
Why did you choose the PWM over having the GM ECM run the fans?

I can't wait to see the gauges!

 

[lazy]

It was mainly the closed loop system for wiring simplicity. The I read Dcc had the best unit out, it just takes some time to get it. I can't wait to see the gauges either. 3 more weeks. I like to pretend that I'd holding me up (I'd like to get the sending units put on the motor before I put for good). But I need to finish tcase and steering box.