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When you find a minute tell me if you know how to interpret what the color is or this one. Thanks.
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When you find a minute tell me if you know how to interpret what the color is or this one. Thanks.
309 color red?When you find a minute tell me if you know how to interpret what the color is or this one. Thanks.
Great. Seems to suggest the current body color is stock and was painted with the roof on explaining why the primer under the roof edge when removed. Looking inside it seemed certain it was not repainted.
Also, once you get the screws out, I'd verify that the thread pitch is correct on them. IIRC, it should be 8 x 1.25mm. You may want to clean out the screw holes with a tap and blow out chips with compressed air. Then add a dab of anti-seize on the threads as the metals are dissimilar.
That’s important to know. Surprised you see them to not be original. Clearly possible. Would stock have likely been painted the body color?Definitely verify that the existing screws are correct and in fact metric.The ones in the pic are not original.Someone may have very well rammed them in and cross threaded the tapped hole
You are correct. The ones on the car appear to be flat I’m going to take a closer look when I’m back to the vehicleView attachment 2065535
The screws in your pic appear to be pan head.The attached shows jis oval head.The underside of the oval head fits the countersunk hole in the hinge.The flat underside of the pan head will not
Thanks. Thought about that and don't rule it out but concerned about the heat just expanding the tightness. Might be better to heat the zerks but hard to reach. There are a lot of good suggestions that have been offered. I'll start with getting the proper Japanese Philips head and ratchet or impact to see if that does it. Its a week or more before I can get back to the project. Gives me time to get my tools in order.I had to remove some stubborn screws and tried lots of lube and time but still couldn’t get them out. Ended up heating with torch without effecting paint and was able to get them out.
You are both correct. I just compared both of my 78's and one is countersunk into the a recessed on the hinge and the hinge is different with the surface flat on this red one. Interesting to learn about this.The hinges on 9/78-newer FJ40s are not countersunk, and matching panhead JIS screws that are used from that point on are stainless (Finally!)
The pictured hinges and screws go together. When the pan screws are used on countersunk hinges, the edge of the countersink is visible.
Sorry. Sent that reply to the wrong comment.Thanks. Thought about that and don't rule it out but concerned about the heat just expanding the tightness. Might be better to heat the zerks but hard to reach. There are a lot of good suggestions that have been offered. I'll start with getting the proper Japanese Philips head and ratchet or impact to see if that does it. Its a week or more before I can get back to the project. Gives me time to get my tools in order.
You may have seen this comment, I'm stumbling a bit on the thread...You are both correct. I just compared both of my 78's and one is countersunk into the a recessed on the hinge and the hinge is different with the surface flat on this red one. Interesting to learn about this.The hinges on 9/78-newer FJ40s are not countersunk, and matching panhead JIS screws that are used from that point on are stainless (Finally!)
The pictured hinges and screws go together. When the pan screws are used on countersunk hinges, the edge of the countersink is visible.
Yep, this is on one of my 78's and not countersunk on the other.View attachment 2065535
The screws in your pic appear to be pan head.The attached shows jis oval head.The underside of the oval head fits the countersunk hole in the hinge.The flat underside of the pan head will not