Builds Ikarus' HDJ81 Aussie-Style Build (2 Viewers)

[HJ61alex]

Hi"
super clean vehicule, great topic thank's,
just a question : why did you say it's a HDJ81?
I though all post 1995 1HD-FT were HDJ82 regarding the VIN number JT111TJ82xxx?
can you confirm?
or explain the diffrence between hdj81 and 82?

and after fitting the cooler don't forget to adjust the main fuel screw
still oem exhaust?

many thank's!
Alexis

 

[ikarus]

Hi"
super clean vehicule, great topic thank's,
just a question : why did you say it's a HDJ81?
I though all post 1995 1HD-FT were HDJ82 regarding the VIN number JT111TJ82xxx?
can you confirm?
or explain the diffrence between hdj81 and 82?

and after fitting the cooler don't forget to adjust the main fuel screw
still oem exhaust?

many thank's!
Alexis

As far as I know, HDJ80 were the diesel 80 series in Europe and Australia (and other small markets) and HDJ81 was the JDM or Japanese market. They're basically all the same but have different features depending on the market - like Japan got EGR on the later model years.

I've never heard of a HDJ82. My VIN number is HDJ8100xxxxx

And for the fuel screw - yes! Planning on doing some tuning soon here, once I get my EGT gauge set up. I installed a new exhaust - 3" stainless.

 

[ikarus]

Work continues on the intercooler which is quickly turning into a more in-depth baseline than I'd planned. I'll probably have to name this build Snowball once I'm done. haha. Resisting the urge to pull the engine and do a complete refresh.

Got the last two hard-to-find hoses from @Japan4X4 - great to work with, highly recommended. And the shipping was super fast.

Stared at the vacuum and boost lines for a while trying to understand it all. I think I have a pretty good grasp now but my last hurdle is figuring out what to do with BACS and SICS. There's little bits of knowledge on Mud, the UK forum, Australian FB groups and a Russian forum. Everyone seems to have slightly different opinions on how they work and what can be deleted.

I labeled everything and dismantled the crossover pipe:

The effects of EGR - not the end of the world but definitely disappointing. I guess I could pull the intake manifold and clean it but then the head still has gunk in it.

Crossover pipe:

Intake:

Lots of cleaning to do. There's a lot of oil in the valley between the intake and valve cover. I'll be replacing the valve cover gasket and we'll see how much that helps.

As for the valve cover itself, there's a small filter in the vacuum line that was mounted to the crossover pipe that seemed to be leaking oil.

Removed the valve cover. 11/12 bolts are super easy to get to but number 12 was hidden in the back underneath brake lines and coolant hoses. Took a long extension and a joint socket to get that one out.

Valve clearance looks good on a quick inspection, but I'll still be adjusting them per the FSM. I also realized I should probably get the injectors serviced while I'm in here...

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Knowing nothing abt the diesels, I'd suggest pulling the intake and giving it a good through cleaning and then may be use some sort of cleaner like sea foam when you have this all together to clean out the head?

Looks like a lot of work - this cruiser will be happy as a pup once you get it all buttoned up!

Work continues on the intercooler which is quickly turning into a more in-depth baseline than I'd planned. I'll probably have to name this build Snowball once I'm done. haha. Resisting the urge to pull the engine and do a complete refresh.

Got the last two hard-to-find hoses from @Japan4X4 - great to work with, highly recommended. And the shipping was super fast.

Stared at the vacuum and boost lines for a while trying to understand it all. I think I have a pretty good grasp now but my last hurdle is figuring out what to do with BACS and SICS. There's little bits of knowledge on Mud, the UK forum, Australian FB groups and a Russian forum. Everyone seems to have slightly different opinions on how they work and what can be deleted.

I labeled everything and dismantled the crossover pipe:

The effects of EGR - not the end of the world but definitely disappointing. I guess I could pull the intake manifold and clean it but then the head still has gunk in it.

Crossover pipe:

Intake:

Lots of cleaning to do. There's a lot of oil in the valley between the intake and valve cover. I'll be replacing the valve cover gasket and we'll see how much that helps.

As for the valve cover itself, there's a small filter in the vacuum line that was mounted to the crossover pipe that seemed to be leaking oil.

Removed the valve cover. 11/12 bolts are super easy to get to but number 12 was hidden in the back underneath brake lines and coolant hoses. Took a long extension and a joint socket to get that one out.

Valve clearance looks good on a quick inspection, but I'll still be adjusting them per the FSM. I also realized I should probably get the injectors serviced while I'm in here...

 

[HJ61alex]

EGR delete and intake cleaning is an important job for the rest of its life
injectors on 1HD-FT are ok for at least 300 000km (like Injection Pump...) but if it's open let's go ...
they are now very expensive (double price than 1HDT!!!) perhaps can you check them by a diesel specialist (able to check the double stage)?

I also have a cooler, and a full 3" exhaust, but if like me you're with the OEM turbo I think it 's at his limit, we need a bigger one for Hi RPM flow, but for the moment it's enough for me, torque is much more present than on oem 1HD-FT

Also when you will remove the egr pipes and vaccum you'll see the engine light coming on...that's due to the ECU...

there is also a lot of simplification to do with the BACS and SICS on the pump...and also check the ACSD !

PS : HDJ82 seems to be european 1995-1997 1HD-FT 80 only///

 

[Dusten]

EGR delete and intake cleaning is an important job for the rest of its life
injectors on 1HD-FT are ok for at least 300 000km (like Injection Pump...) but if it's open let's go ...
they are now very expensive (double price than 1HDT!!!) perhaps can you check them by a diesel specialist (able to check the double stage)?

I also have a cooler, and a full 3" exhaust, but if like me you're with the OEM turbo I think it 's at his limit, we need a bigger one for Hi RPM flow, but for the moment it's enough for me, torque is much more present than on oem 1HD-FT

Also when you will remove the egr pipes and vaccum you'll see the engine light coming on...that's due to the ECU...

their is also a lot of simplification to do with the BACS and SICS on the pump...and also check the ASCD !

PS : HDJ82 seems to be european 1995-1997 1HD-FT 80 only///

There is a shop in Oregon that does our injectors.

 

[ikarus]

EGR delete and intake cleaning is an important job for the rest of its life
injectors on 1HD-FT are ok for at least 300 000km (like Injection Pump...) but if it's open let's go ...
they are now very expensive (double price than 1HDT!!!) perhaps can you check them by a diesel specialist (able to check the double stage)?

I also have a cooler, and a full 3" exhaust, but if like me you're with the OEM turbo I think it 's at his limit, we need a bigger one for Hi RPM flow, but for the moment it's enough for me, torque is much more present than on oem 1HD-FT

Also when you will remove the egr pipes and vaccum you'll see the engine light coming on...that's due to the ECU...

their is also a lot of simplification to do with the BACS and SICS on the pump...and also check the ASCD !

PS : HDJ82 seems to be european 1995-1997 1HD-FT 80 only///

How do you have your vacuum lines set up? Have you simplified things or are you still stock?

 

[SNLC]

Pulling injectors tip: They can be very stuck. I don’t like prying on them. I use a slide hammer with an adapter to bolt it to the injectors. Then I very lightly tap tap very straight with the slide hammer and they come right out.

Chances of you needing to replace the seats are slim. Those can be real hard to get out to when it is assembled. Replace o-rings on the injectors though and be careful not to damage them installing.

Cheers

 

[gilmorneau]

+1 on the slide hammer method. I made my own with a piece of threaded rod (to fit into the injector) and a few nuts and fender washers (for the slide weight to work against). Worked great. Note if you’re doing this with the motor installed in the car and the hood in place you’ll need a fairly short slide hammer to get the injectors closest to the firewall out.

 

[ikarus]

Pulling injectors tip: They can be very stuck. I don’t like prying on them. I use a slide hammer with an adapter to bolt it to the injectors. Then I very lightly tap tap very straight with the slide hammer and they come right out.

Chances of you needing to replace the seats are slim. Those can be real hard to get out to when it is assembled. Replace o-rings on the injectors though and be careful not to damage them installing.

Cheers

+1 on the slide hammer method. I made my own with a piece of threaded rod (to fit into the injector) and a few nuts and fender washers (for the slide weight to work against). Worked great. Note if you’re doing this with the motor installed in the car and the hood in place you’ll need a fairly short slide hammer to get the injectors closest to the firewall out.

Thank you both for the advice and recommendations, I love to learn, I'm a diesel novice. I have already considered pulling the hood.
What do you guys recommend for injector service intervals? I've heard 150K miles for injectors.

 

[ikarus]

Progress continues, sort of

The rust bubble on my rear hatch has been on my "look-into" list for a couple months and I finally removed the rear window today:

Sure enough, got some rust hiding out. It's worst on the left, with five small easier to fix spots on the right

The only other rust on the rear hatch was the upper latch part of the JDM swingout so I pulled that -

It's fine underneath but that got me thinking I'll probably pull the whole swingout and powder coat/refresh it. So then I dug into the hinges -

All looks easy enough except - is that the rusted remnants of a bolt? Did one magically corrode away even though the others are fine?

Then I started pulling the interior to see if I could see the back of those 3-4 bolts

And at that point I realized I just needed to stop and get the engine sorted first before I turn this into a restoration rather than a refresh. haha. So I closed everything up did a little work with some wire brushes and will figure out the rust later.

 

[SNLC]

Thank you both for the advice and recommendations, I love to learn, I'm a diesel novice. I have already considered pulling the hood.
What do you guys recommend for injector service intervals? I've heard 150K miles for injectors.

Do them and know they are good, if no record of if-when they have ever been done. How long will it take you to do 150,000 miles? @ofer bruhis has logged many miles fast but most folks don’t. I have put barely 12,000 on my new 1FZFE in my 80 in 2.5yrs. They can go a lot longer than 150k, so do them as needed. More important to do regular oil and filter changes and fuel filters + air filter. On a couple old Nissan Patrol diesels I got new injection pump hard lines because there was visible corrosion in and on them. We do all new ones on our builds for this reason, not sure why Toyota specs them at 150k in 100’s. They didn’t on the FT and some people say it’s due to higher pressure of the FTE pump. Perhaps, I can’t say for sure. Again it is going to take a lot of driving once you do things like the hard lines and injectors. Pumps on the FTE can go for 500+k is what I hear. Dirt, debris and water is what will kill any injection pump.

Cheers

 

[ikarus]

I decided to pull the radiator in favor of an OEM radiator. This one was fine and just installed last year by the PO but I'd like for the crucial components to be OEM when possible. Also as I mentioned before the silicone hoses were leaking, and my heater valve has some crust around it - might as well make the coolant system refresh mostly complete.

They had to do some creative cutting and washer stacking to get this one to fit ok.

As always, big shoutout to @cruiseroutfit . Pretty awesome as an American to be able to pick up the phone and order a 1HZ/1HD radiator at 10am and pick it up at 2pm.

This is 16400-17020, meant for manual transmissions, with no connections for the transmission.

And as a bonus, Cruiser Outfitters inspects the radiators when they get them from Toyota so you don't have to worry about receiving it broken from a dealer

 

[ikarus]

Figured out the rusty mystery bolt in the tire carrier -

Might have to drill that out.

 

[ikarus]

Do them and know they are good, if no record of if-when they have ever been done. How long will it take you to do 150,000 miles? @ofer bruhis has logged many miles fast but most folks don’t. I have put barely 12,000 on my new 1FZFE in my 80 in 2.5yrs. They can go a lot longer than 150k, so do them as needed. More important to do regular oil and filter changes and fuel filters + air filter. On a couple old Nissan Patrol diesels I got new injection pump hard lines because there was visible corrosion in and on them. We do all new ones on our builds for this reason, not sure why Toyota specs them at 150k in 100’s. They didn’t on the FT and some people say it’s due to higher pressure of the FTE pump. Perhaps, I can’t say for sure. Again it is going to take a lot of driving once you do things like the hard lines and injectors. Pumps on the FTE can go for 500+k is what I hear. Dirt, debris and water is what will kill any injection pump.

Cheers

Man I might just run this as is for a while and bring it up to your shop in a few years. I love watching your builds

 

[gilmorneau]

Might have to drill that out.

Yup.

Re: injectors, mine had about 150k km's on them and a couple had bad-ish spray patterns when tested. Not terrible. I probably could have tried some fuel treatments or something before pulling them.

And, man, did this make me laugh:

 

[HJ61alex]

How do you have your vacuum lines set up? Have you simplified things or are you still stock?

I've note every modifications on our french forum : Connexion - https://series8et10.forumactif.com/t4218-hdj80-24s-1hd-ft-bacs-sics-et-acsd?highlight=bacs

the topics that helped me:

1HD-FT EGR parts identification - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1hd-ft-egr-parts-identification.815727/

1HD-FT Emissions control manual ERM111E - https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/1hd-ft-emissions-control-manual-erm111e.150107/

in russian but google heps for ECU wire cutting (engine light after egr delete)

Отключение ЕГР на 1HD-FT. Фаза 2 - финал. - https://www.land-cruiser.ru/index.php?/topic/148583-otklyuchenie-egr-na-1hd-ft-faza-2-final/

https://www.land-cruiser.ru/index.p...a-motora-kotoromu-ne-davali-normalno-dyshat…/

EGR Spec:

AUS spec:

ACSD removal : (not already done for me but thinking of it for next mod)

ACSD - Blanking plate part number - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/acsd-blanking-plate-part-number.634271/
ACSD Removal 1HD-T - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/acsd-removal-1hd-t.1016881/page-3

My accelerate idle trany has been removed because i was at it's minimum after adding fuel with the main fuel screw, it works fine but here we don't have really cold weather
My own artistic pictures

after:

if you keep the air heater don't forget the mass wire between the air intake pipe and the engine block

EGT and boost pressure gauges helps me to understand where i am, and i think there is still a large security margin

 

[ikarus]

I've note every modifications on our french forum : Connexion - https://series8et10.forumactif.com/t4218-hdj80-24s-1hd-ft-bacs-sics-et-acsd?highlight=bacs

the topics that helped me:

1HD-FT EGR parts identification - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1hd-ft-egr-parts-identification.815727/

1HD-FT Emissions control manual ERM111E - https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/1hd-ft-emissions-control-manual-erm111e.150107/

in russian but google heps for ECU wire cutting (engine light after egr delete)

Отключение ЕГР на 1HD-FT. Фаза 2 - финал. - https://www.land-cruiser.ru/index.php?/topic/148583-otklyuchenie-egr-na-1hd-ft-faza-2-final/

https://www.land-cruiser.ru/index.p...a-motora-kotoromu-ne-davali-normalno-dyshat…/

EGR Spec:

AUS spec:

ACSD removal : (not already done for me but thinking of it for next mod)

ACSD - Blanking plate part number - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/acsd-blanking-plate-part-number.634271/
ACSD Removal 1HD-T - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/acsd-removal-1hd-t.1016881/page-3

My accelerate idle trany has been removed because i was at it's minimum after adding fuel with the main fuel screw, it works fine but here we don't have really cold weather
My own artistic pictures

after:

if you keep the air heater don't forget the mass wire between the air intake pipe and the engine block

EGT and boost pressure gauges helps me to understand where i am, and i think there is still a large security margin

Very thorough. Thank you!

 

[gilmorneau]

How do you have your vacuum lines set up? Have you simplified things or are you still stock?

Just for another perspective, I decided to leave my 1HD-FT all stock. The original plan was to remove all the "extra" vacuum lines + gadgets and convert it to Aussie-spec.

I found out it's maybe not quite that simple. Toyota designed it all as a system.

Just my $.02

 

[duece71]

Progress continues, sort of

The rust bubble on my rear hatch has been on my "look-into" list for a couple months and I finally removed the rear window today:

Sure enough, got some rust hiding out. It's worst on the left, with five small easier to fix spots on the right

The only other rust on the rear hatch was the upper latch part of the JDM swingout so I pulled that -

It's fine underneath but that got me thinking I'll probably pull the whole swingout and powder coat/refresh it. So then I dug into the hinges -

All looks easy enough except - is that the rusted remnants of a bolt? Did one magically corrode away even though the others are fine?

Then I started pulling the interior to see if I could see the back of those 3-4 bolts

And at that point I realized I just needed to stop and get the engine sorted first before I turn this into a restoration rather than a refresh. haha. So I closed everything up did a little work with some wire brushes and will figure out the rust later.

This picture of the 5th speaker looks almost exactly like mine. It had a small box (an amp?) attached to it. It was buzzing baaaad so I just removed it and threw it away. I saved all of the mounting brackets for later if need be. Glad to see you tackling this stuff. Any progress with the inter cooler?