Looks like a nicely made exhaust
Builds Ikarus' HDJ81 Offroad Build (1 Viewer)
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
suzuguru
SILVER Star
I ended up finding a deal on a Torqit exhaust and installed it this weekend. Shipping from Australia was fast and easy, straight from Torqit.
I would have liked an exhaust that routed through the frame but those were all 4xx stainless. This exhaust is 304 and a work of art, really great construction.
Removing the old exhaust was fine, just tedious getting to some of the more obscure bolts. Ratcheting wrenches and flex joints made it much easier. Soaked everything in liquid wrench for an hour or so and everything came right off.
I couldn't figure out how to remove the rear section that routes over the frame/axle so I just chopped it in half.
Stock was pretty squashed in some areas
Very happy with it so far. I went with the louder option, straight through with just a small resonator. It sounds awesome but I will be careful when driving around my neighborhood at night, it's loud. haha. I'll make a video soon
Looks great! I looked it up, and it looks like it runs around $1200 U.S. Dollars. I didn't see one on their site that's routed through the frame. Was that one available somewhere else? Also wondering why you didn't choose that one. Look forward to see (or rather hearing) the video.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #83
No way?? I'd like to see the standard version if that's trueThat's the factory installed, high performance exhaust option
They are all squashed in that section
Yes, you're right, they only have one option routed like stock. I looked at a bunch of different options - the only exhausts that routed through the frame were Manta, Redback and one other I can't remember now. They looked great but they were all 400 series stainless, which I don't think would hold up well to US winter weather.
I wanted to go with 304 stainless for the winters here, so that limited me to PPD, Beaudesert and Torqit. PPD seems to be made in China, but Beaudesert and Torqit are both made in Australia and really well made from what I can tell.
Looks good, definitely considering this for mine.
It was a facetious comment
I've built a couple of exhausts for my diesel cruisers, it surprised me to discover how flattened the stock exhaust is at the rear cross member.
That system looks really sharp.
I personally prefer to run it inside the frame, you can eliminate all the sharp bends and really straighten out the exhaust pathway a lot.
I think what you have is still gonna give a good upgrade.
- Thread starter
- #86
Haha yeah I figured. Agreed on running it inside the frame, wish I could have found a 304 system that did that. Down the road I'll look into a custom setup but yeah for now it's a great updrade.It was a facetious comment
I've built a couple of exhausts for my diesel cruisers, it surprised me to discover how flattened the stock exhaust is at the rear cross member.
That system looks really sharp.
I personally prefer to run it inside the frame, you can eliminate all the sharp bends and really straighten out the exhaust pathway a lot.
I think what you have is still gonna give a good upgrade.
suzuguru
SILVER Star
So i've got basically no knowledge of running exhaust on the diesel models. (or gas for that matter) What is involved in running one inside the frame?
I ended up finding a deal on a Torqit exhaust and installed it this weekend. Shipping from Australia was fast and easy, straight from Torqit.
I would have liked an exhaust that routed through the frame but those were all 4xx stainless. This exhaust is 304 and a work of art, really great construction.
Removing the old exhaust was fine, just tedious getting to some of the more obscure bolts. Ratcheting wrenches and flex joints made it much easier. Soaked everything in liquid wrench for an hour or so and everything came right off.
I couldn't figure out how to remove the rear section that routes over the frame/axle so I just chopped it in half.
Stock was pretty squashed in some areas
Very happy with it so far. I went with the louder option, straight through with just a small resonator. It sounds awesome but I will be careful when driving around my neighborhood at night, it's loud. haha. I'll make a video soon
I can't lie there was a little part of me hoping for a hood stack.... *snail noises* tsu tsu tsu tsu tsu psshhhhh *coal trail*
The stock exhaust crosses from engine, to the outer side of the frame rail, then loops back over to run on the inner side of the frame rail before passing up over the rear diff and out the back.
Its a fairly convoluted pathway, and has lots of tight bends which slows gas flow.
Running between the trans and the frame rail ("inside the frame") is a lot straighter path. Far fewer and shorter bends needed. Less restrictive gas flow, and better performance and efficiency.
Toyota changed to running inside the frame on later models for the same reasons.
That respray full desert dune looks amazing! I suggest go for it. Tempting me to do mine too....
- Thread starter
- #91
haha how about my next build will be a Saudi style dune truck with a hood stack
Do it!!
I ended up finding a deal on a Torqit exhaust and installed it this weekend. Shipping from Australia was fast and easy, straight from Torqit.
I would have liked an exhaust that routed through the frame but those were all 4xx stainless. This exhaust is 304 and a work of art, really great construction.
Removing the old exhaust was fine, just tedious getting to some of the more obscure bolts. Ratcheting wrenches and flex joints made it much easier. Soaked everything in liquid wrench for an hour or so and everything came right off.
I couldn't figure out how to remove the rear section that routes over the frame/axle so I just chopped it in half.
Stock was pretty squashed in some areas
Very happy with it so far. I went with the louder option, straight through with just a small resonator. It sounds awesome but I will be careful when driving around my neighborhood at night, it's loud. haha. I'll make a video soon
That's a beautiful piece of kit there!
Can't wait to hear it..
- Thread starter
- #93
Small upgrade today. I bought Roadsafe recovery points from The 4WD Shed in AU. They were easy to work with and the shipping was fast.
The fronts bolted right up after a thread clean up with a M12x1.25 tap.
Before:
After:
For the rear, I don't have any immediate plans to buy a bumper, and as far as I can tell you shouldn't use the 4 holes on the rear bumper for a recovery point. Right?
I've seen a few guys running these recovery points on the rear: (photos taken from Australian FB groups)
They claim they mounted right up so I bought an extra set. However, the stock bumper gets in the way -
The first hurdle as you can see is that the welded bumper mount makes it so I can't mount these flush with the frame rail. I could hammer that down a little and use a 1/4" spacer - it wouldn't need to be too big. Thoughts?
(That flat piece of metal directly behind the left hole.)
The second hurdle is that the holes are threaded on the LHS, but on the RHS, the holes are not threaded. I could potentially use some of these nuts on a stick provided with the Roadsafe kit, if I can get them in the frame.
Let me know if you guys have any ideas. Easiest thing would probably be to sell this second set and just pick up a more standard type like a Trail Tailor recovery point.
The fronts bolted right up after a thread clean up with a M12x1.25 tap.
Before:
After:
For the rear, I don't have any immediate plans to buy a bumper, and as far as I can tell you shouldn't use the 4 holes on the rear bumper for a recovery point. Right?
I've seen a few guys running these recovery points on the rear: (photos taken from Australian FB groups)
They claim they mounted right up so I bought an extra set. However, the stock bumper gets in the way -
The first hurdle as you can see is that the welded bumper mount makes it so I can't mount these flush with the frame rail. I could hammer that down a little and use a 1/4" spacer - it wouldn't need to be too big. Thoughts?
(That flat piece of metal directly behind the left hole.)
The second hurdle is that the holes are threaded on the LHS, but on the RHS, the holes are not threaded. I could potentially use some of these nuts on a stick provided with the Roadsafe kit, if I can get them in the frame.
Let me know if you guys have any ideas. Easiest thing would probably be to sell this second set and just pick up a more standard type like a Trail Tailor recovery point.
Looking good. For the rear bumper recovery, can you find a piece of metal to be made into a spacer? Thickness would be for how low the recovery points you would want for them to hang down. That to me seems to be the easiest solution looking at the pictures. Also, you wouldnt happen to have a contact email with the person you worked with at Torqit would you? I emailed them and the person replied with…”we don’t have any exhaust systems compatible with your vehicle.” Thank you.Small upgrade today. I bought Roadsafe recovery points from The 4WD Shed in AU. They were easy to work with and the shipping was fast.
The fronts bolted right up after a thread clean up with a M12x1.25 tap.
Before:
After:
For the rear, I don't have any immediate plans to buy a bumper, and as far as I can tell you shouldn't use the 4 holes on the rear bumper for a recovery point. Right?
I've seen a few guys running these recovery points on the rear: (photos taken from Australian FB groups)
They claim they mounted right up so I bought an extra set. However, the stock bumper gets in the way -
The first hurdle as you can see is that the welded bumper mount makes it so I can't mount these flush with the frame rail. I could hammer that down a little and use a 1/4" spacer - it wouldn't need to be too big. Thoughts?
(That flat piece of metal directly behind the left hole.)
The second hurdle is that the holes are threaded on the LHS, but on the RHS, the holes are not threaded. I could potentially use some of these nuts on a stick provided with the Roadsafe kit, if I can get them in the frame.
Let me know if you guys have any ideas. Easiest thing would probably be to sell this second set and just pick up a more standard type like a Trail Tailor recovery point.
- Thread starter
- #95
I'll PM you
- Thread starter
- #96
Got out to the desert the other day so I put together a short video of the exhaust. Just an iPhone so nothing too special:
Filled up before I headed out, got 18mpg on the last tank.
Also as most here probably already know, the JDM cruise control is limited to 70 mph. With 35s, I found that it tops out right around 75 now:
I originally thought I would look into modifying/removing that speed limit but the more I drive it, I think I'll just leave it at 75mph. The fastest roads around here are 80mph but I only drive on those once or twice a month. Most roads are 70mph so I'll just stick to the speed limit (and get better gas mileage anyway.)
I was able to get up to about 90 mph no problem though.. not something I want to do regularly in this truck though. ha.
Small upgrade today. I bought Roadsafe recovery points from The 4WD Shed in AU. They were easy to work with and the shipping was fast.
The fronts bolted right up after a thread clean up with a M12x1.25 tap.
Before:
After:
For the rear, I don't have any immediate plans to buy a bumper, and as far as I can tell you shouldn't use the 4 holes on the rear bumper for a recovery point. Right?
I've seen a few guys running these recovery points on the rear: (photos taken from Australian FB groups)
They claim they mounted right up so I bought an extra set. However, the stock bumper gets in the way -
The first hurdle as you can see is that the welded bumper mount makes it so I can't mount these flush with the frame rail. I could hammer that down a little and use a 1/4" spacer - it wouldn't need to be too big. Thoughts?
(That flat piece of metal directly behind the left hole.)
The second hurdle is that the holes are threaded on the LHS, but on the RHS, the holes are not threaded. I could potentially use some of these nuts on a stick provided with the Roadsafe kit, if I can get them in the frame.
Let me know if you guys have any ideas. Easiest thing would probably be to sell this second set and just pick up a more standard type like a Trail Tailor recovery point.
Dude I have the exact same issue with rear recovery points.
I tried to use the Trail Tailor recovery set but had the same problem with the welded portion getting in the way and one of the holes not being threaded. I'm looking into rear bumper replacements but the OEM swingout is an issue for most of them.
Small upgrade today. I bought Roadsafe recovery points from The 4WD Shed in AU. They were easy to work with and the shipping was fast.
The fronts bolted right up after a thread clean up with a M12x1.25 tap.
Before:
After:
For the rear, I don't have any immediate plans to buy a bumper, and as far as I can tell you shouldn't use the 4 holes on the rear bumper for a recovery point. Right?
I've seen a few guys running these recovery points on the rear: (photos taken from Australian FB groups)
They claim they mounted right up so I bought an extra set. However, the stock bumper gets in the way -
The first hurdle as you can see is that the welded bumper mount makes it so I can't mount these flush with the frame rail. I could hammer that down a little and use a 1/4" spacer - it wouldn't need to be too big. Thoughts?
(That flat piece of metal directly behind the left hole.)
The second hurdle is that the holes are threaded on the LHS, but on the RHS, the holes are not threaded. I could potentially use some of these nuts on a stick provided with the Roadsafe kit, if I can get them in the frame.
Let me know if you guys have any ideas. Easiest thing would probably be to sell this second set and just pick up a more standard type like a Trail Tailor recovery point.
Edit: @mods please delete this duplicate reply.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #99
Interesting. Yeah I'm not in a rush to add a rear bumper. I wouldn't mind one, but I like the simplicity of the OEM carrier setup.
Here's what I'm thinking I'll try:
Mocking it up with some washers, I think that a 3/16" spacer will be the right size. On the other side (RHS) I'll use the nuts on a stick for the unthreaded holes.
It looks alright. Kind looks like it sticks out a bunch but realistically it only sticks out less than an inch:
Thoughts? Cool? Stupid? Function over form?
How is everyone else doing their rear recovery points?
I think J @TRAIL TAILOR made some spacers to solve this exact issue, if I am not mistaken.
