2KCruiser
Everything 2KRacing, practically live here
While thumbing through the tech page I came across this link last Thursday,
Gettin' ready to sell my 80, need some help with a few repairs
I thought wow, another OCD 80 owner trying to fix minor details on a 20 yr old truck before listing, sounds good to me. So I soon messaged him and inquired on the potential sale. After clicking the send button I kinda went , I already have an 80 which I have had for a little over 2 years now and managed to complete a lot of projects which included a rear mounted turbo, do I really want to start over? While I was trying to justify another 80 for no good reason I receive a reply back from Brian a few hours later which is a long time mudder and get this list.
The “Good”
Mileage – 120,285
4” OME lift (believe medium kit)
35” BFG MT tires (315 75R/16) – guessing around 15k miles on them, spare
is brand new
Custom prototype sliders – Fabricated by a local shop and welded to frame in
4 places. Can use the hi-lift jack with them
ARB air lockers front/rear – Just had the front fixed and axle re-built 3 weeks
ago, cost was $950 ouch!). Front locker never worked right since Man-A-Fre
installed it way back. Air compressor is the ARB model RDCKA
Upgraded Rubicon SS braded hoses for locker air lines.
Dual Optima batteries with isolation relay and in cab isolation switch – Main
batter is a red top, ~ 4 months old, auxiliary is a blue top marine and
guessing at least 5 years old, probably older.
Blue Sea fuse panel in engine compartment for auxiliary electrical stuff
Trailer brake controller installed where ashtray normally sits – Tekonsha
Prodigy P2
Frame mounted trailer hitch – I also have 2 military 2” receivers that mount
on the rear bumper, one I bought from Slee, the other?? Only used the Slee
one once and then went back to the regular frame mount (more stability)
Kaymar rear tire swing away with hi lift jack (NOT a Kaymar bumper, just the
swing away)
ARB bull bar front bumper
Warn 10k winch with Viking synthetic line
INTI roof rack (made and shipped from Venezuela) – can’t get them anymore,
cost shipped was around $1,100
2 PIAA flood lights on front bumper
I used to have 4 Hella floods on the roof rack , plus to rear camp lights, but
recently removed them. Wires are still there, run thru car roof and zip tied
together, other end of wires coiled up under DS dash
JVC dual din navigation system/CD/DVD/MP3 player
ODB2 scan guage – mounted on steering column
36 gallon safari fuel tank (purchased and installed by Man-A-Fre around 7 – 8
years ago)
Upgraded to 4:88 gears in front/rear (Man-A-Fre did the work)
Upgraded OME panhard rods, control arms and rear end (can’t remember
what they’re called?) – Purchased and installed by Man-A-Fre in 2009
Upgraded SS brake lines
400 watt inverter hard wired to fuse box and mounted in center console
PIAA HID low/high beam headlight bulbs
LED bulb dome interior dome lights
Front axle vent extended up into engine compartment with filter on the end
Fusible link replaced 2 – 3 years ago
Recently replaced ~95% of all hoses under hood including all cooling system
hoses – Guessing within the last 1 – 2 years, will have to look thru my
receipts to confirm for sure. Only one not replaced (which I have) I believe is
the PHH (pesky heater hose..)
Upgraded fan clutch – There’s a guy on MUD that sells them, I have one for
the 100 series too. I installed it ~ 2 years ago and the engine runs about 4 – 5
degrees cooler than before (~ 188 deg F on the freeway)
I have a brand new mean green alternator that I believe is in the 80 – 100
amp output range? The original one I bought was defective so they sent me a
new one, but never installed it as the stock unit was handling the load fine.
Replaced both heater hose “T” fittings about 5k miles ago, and have a 3rd one
as a spare
I have the 3rd row seats in my garage, took them out shortly after I bought the
Cruiser in 2001, plus have the bolts, brackets, for them and the seatbelts
Bought and installed the Toyota OEM center diff lock switch
Bought and installed the Toyota OEM dash cup holder
Roof is completely linex’d, as is top of rear hatch where the stupid wind wing
thingy used to be.
Skid plate to protect drive train – can’t recall the Mfg.
Oil Changes – I have been very meticulous about oil changes. Have done
them all myself and always replace the oil between 3k – 5k miles. For the last
10 years or so, have used Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic and Mobil 1 filters.
Had the cooling system completely flushed several years ago, but will have to
try to find my receipt to get exact date.
AC works fine, had it re-charged in 2008 (per receipt), runs nice and cold
Magna flow muffler
Brake rotors – I upgraded in 2010 to vented/slotted rotors and new pads.
Scheduled tomorrow at 9a to have a full $300 bumper to bumper detail,
inside and out, plus buff out the wheels
The “Bad” and the “Ugly”
The “D” for “Drive” on the dash does not light up when in Drive – All other
gear indicator lights work fine
DS rearview mirror wobbles – I have a new one and am hoping to replace it
this weekend
DS front seat has wear & tear from being a 20 year old rig. Same with rear
seats
Paint job – The last time I had it detailed (did it at a carwash, bad move..), it
came back with the gel coat damaged but suspect it was more to do with the
status of the paint job/finish, not carelessness on his part
DS front floor mat is worn
Rear seat floor carpet is warn. I actually bought it that way in 2001 (was a
soccer Mom car) and at that time just bought a new floor mat and didn’t
worry about it
Front seatbelts – They don’t retract like they did when new. This is a
common problem/complaint with the 80 series and read on MUD how to
repair them, but just didn’t have the time to do so
DS/PS electric seats don’t operate correctly. As mentioned prior, I bought
the little white replacement gears (this seems to be the fix from reading on
MUD) and actually took out the DS seat and manually adjusted it all the way
back. My wife had driven it last and moved the seat up all the way, it worked
fine moving it up, but wouldn’t move back so had to do it manually (PITA…)
Brakes – Even though I replaced the rotors with vented/cross drilled type,
they just started to feel a little rough so may need to be inspected and turned.
Emergency Brake needs adjustment/attention – When pulling the brake
handle when parking, the brake will not stop the car completely.
Rust –
o Rear tire swing away bracket is rusty
o Misc rust on the undercarriage – I live at the beach so somewhat
unavoidable.
o Bottom right corner of rear hatch window. A few rust “bubbles”
starting to show
o Misc. scratches/dings on the exterior – hoping the detailer coming
tomorrow can address the majority of them but hey – it’s on offroad
vehicle and that’s what I use it for
o Wheels – 2 of the 4 wheel caps are missing. I replaced them once and
within a few days, someone stole them while I was parked at a market
so never replaced them
o INTI roof rack – a few small rust spots showing up, I was planning to
rattle can them with Rust-o-leum but will hold off until you get a
chance to check it out.
o Hi-lift jack paint is peeling off and has some rust. I’ve had it for maybe
10 years.
o Rubber seals around fender flairs are cracked and need replacing
o One fender flare wobbles which I believe is due to one or more of the
plastic bolts missing
o There appears to be a small oil leak somewhere in the engine
compartment. I was planning to have the engine steam cleaned to try
to isolate it, however may just bring it to my mechanic and have him
figure it out
o DS rear door dome light switch – I think you saw my post on MUD
about this, planning to look at it today
o Some exterior cosmetic rust on the sliders – I typically rattle can them
annually with Rust-o-leum.
I’m sure there are a few more items that need some attention however the above are
my best attempt to list them all. If you/we find others it wasn’t an attempt to be
misleading or less than honest, it just that sometimes you live with things that aren’t
working correctly but are minor and don’t think about them.
If by chance I do think of more stuff, I will send you an email with those additional
items.
HOLY $hit, was not expecting that!
After reading through it, I knew that this cruiser was well taken care of and Brian seemed to be a straight shooter. So again, without seeing a single picture, I am already pondering the ridiculousness of this truck. So after a few messages back & forth I made arrangements to check it out on Sunday (yesterday). At this point I was almost sure that I was driving this bad boy home.
Now, to convince the (Cue mission impossible intro music)
I explained to her that since both rigs are the same year and have the same color interior, I can do a lot of swapping and not lose most of the investment I got in my current rig. Plus if it gets too pricey, which it probably will, I promise to sell my 60 and maybe my current 80 as well. Was expecting but I got the green light. Fast forward to Sunday afternoon and I am at Brian's house. Finally see the truck and everything checked out so we go for a quick test drive. No driveline noises, no caster problems, no weird noises, no check engine, A/C is cold, solid wheel feel, no real rust, it felt right. So I wave bye to the mrs and I am set. An added bonus was that I got a trunk full of OE removed parts from the truck and a binder of receipts from 10 years ago for all maintenance and mods done. I was more than satisfied with my decision to buy a truck that I wasn't even in the market for.
So now that the truck is in my driveway and I am slowly coming back to reality, I have decided that I will be swapping over some things and will end up putting the old 80 for sale.
I would like to thank @Brian Waag for the wonderful truck, all the detailed info, and a smooth transaction. Here's just a few pics of the truck and that wonderful binder of info.
Gettin' ready to sell my 80, need some help with a few repairs
I thought wow, another OCD 80 owner trying to fix minor details on a 20 yr old truck before listing, sounds good to me. So I soon messaged him and inquired on the potential sale. After clicking the send button I kinda went , I already have an 80 which I have had for a little over 2 years now and managed to complete a lot of projects which included a rear mounted turbo, do I really want to start over? While I was trying to justify another 80 for no good reason I receive a reply back from Brian a few hours later which is a long time mudder and get this list.
The “Good”
Mileage – 120,285
4” OME lift (believe medium kit)
35” BFG MT tires (315 75R/16) – guessing around 15k miles on them, spare
is brand new
Custom prototype sliders – Fabricated by a local shop and welded to frame in
4 places. Can use the hi-lift jack with them
ARB air lockers front/rear – Just had the front fixed and axle re-built 3 weeks
ago, cost was $950 ouch!). Front locker never worked right since Man-A-Fre
installed it way back. Air compressor is the ARB model RDCKA
Upgraded Rubicon SS braded hoses for locker air lines.
Dual Optima batteries with isolation relay and in cab isolation switch – Main
batter is a red top, ~ 4 months old, auxiliary is a blue top marine and
guessing at least 5 years old, probably older.
Blue Sea fuse panel in engine compartment for auxiliary electrical stuff
Trailer brake controller installed where ashtray normally sits – Tekonsha
Prodigy P2
Frame mounted trailer hitch – I also have 2 military 2” receivers that mount
on the rear bumper, one I bought from Slee, the other?? Only used the Slee
one once and then went back to the regular frame mount (more stability)
Kaymar rear tire swing away with hi lift jack (NOT a Kaymar bumper, just the
swing away)
ARB bull bar front bumper
Warn 10k winch with Viking synthetic line
INTI roof rack (made and shipped from Venezuela) – can’t get them anymore,
cost shipped was around $1,100
2 PIAA flood lights on front bumper
I used to have 4 Hella floods on the roof rack , plus to rear camp lights, but
recently removed them. Wires are still there, run thru car roof and zip tied
together, other end of wires coiled up under DS dash
JVC dual din navigation system/CD/DVD/MP3 player
ODB2 scan guage – mounted on steering column
36 gallon safari fuel tank (purchased and installed by Man-A-Fre around 7 – 8
years ago)
Upgraded to 4:88 gears in front/rear (Man-A-Fre did the work)
Upgraded OME panhard rods, control arms and rear end (can’t remember
what they’re called?) – Purchased and installed by Man-A-Fre in 2009
Upgraded SS brake lines
400 watt inverter hard wired to fuse box and mounted in center console
PIAA HID low/high beam headlight bulbs
LED bulb dome interior dome lights
Front axle vent extended up into engine compartment with filter on the end
Fusible link replaced 2 – 3 years ago
Recently replaced ~95% of all hoses under hood including all cooling system
hoses – Guessing within the last 1 – 2 years, will have to look thru my
receipts to confirm for sure. Only one not replaced (which I have) I believe is
the PHH (pesky heater hose..)
Upgraded fan clutch – There’s a guy on MUD that sells them, I have one for
the 100 series too. I installed it ~ 2 years ago and the engine runs about 4 – 5
degrees cooler than before (~ 188 deg F on the freeway)
I have a brand new mean green alternator that I believe is in the 80 – 100
amp output range? The original one I bought was defective so they sent me a
new one, but never installed it as the stock unit was handling the load fine.
Replaced both heater hose “T” fittings about 5k miles ago, and have a 3rd one
as a spare
I have the 3rd row seats in my garage, took them out shortly after I bought the
Cruiser in 2001, plus have the bolts, brackets, for them and the seatbelts
Bought and installed the Toyota OEM center diff lock switch
Bought and installed the Toyota OEM dash cup holder
Roof is completely linex’d, as is top of rear hatch where the stupid wind wing
thingy used to be.
Skid plate to protect drive train – can’t recall the Mfg.
Oil Changes – I have been very meticulous about oil changes. Have done
them all myself and always replace the oil between 3k – 5k miles. For the last
10 years or so, have used Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic and Mobil 1 filters.
Had the cooling system completely flushed several years ago, but will have to
try to find my receipt to get exact date.
AC works fine, had it re-charged in 2008 (per receipt), runs nice and cold
Magna flow muffler
Brake rotors – I upgraded in 2010 to vented/slotted rotors and new pads.
Scheduled tomorrow at 9a to have a full $300 bumper to bumper detail,
inside and out, plus buff out the wheels
The “Bad” and the “Ugly”
The “D” for “Drive” on the dash does not light up when in Drive – All other
gear indicator lights work fine
DS rearview mirror wobbles – I have a new one and am hoping to replace it
this weekend
DS front seat has wear & tear from being a 20 year old rig. Same with rear
seats
Paint job – The last time I had it detailed (did it at a carwash, bad move..), it
came back with the gel coat damaged but suspect it was more to do with the
status of the paint job/finish, not carelessness on his part
DS front floor mat is worn
Rear seat floor carpet is warn. I actually bought it that way in 2001 (was a
soccer Mom car) and at that time just bought a new floor mat and didn’t
worry about it
Front seatbelts – They don’t retract like they did when new. This is a
common problem/complaint with the 80 series and read on MUD how to
repair them, but just didn’t have the time to do so
DS/PS electric seats don’t operate correctly. As mentioned prior, I bought
the little white replacement gears (this seems to be the fix from reading on
MUD) and actually took out the DS seat and manually adjusted it all the way
back. My wife had driven it last and moved the seat up all the way, it worked
fine moving it up, but wouldn’t move back so had to do it manually (PITA…)
Brakes – Even though I replaced the rotors with vented/cross drilled type,
they just started to feel a little rough so may need to be inspected and turned.
Emergency Brake needs adjustment/attention – When pulling the brake
handle when parking, the brake will not stop the car completely.
Rust –
o Rear tire swing away bracket is rusty
o Misc rust on the undercarriage – I live at the beach so somewhat
unavoidable.
o Bottom right corner of rear hatch window. A few rust “bubbles”
starting to show
o Misc. scratches/dings on the exterior – hoping the detailer coming
tomorrow can address the majority of them but hey – it’s on offroad
vehicle and that’s what I use it for
o Wheels – 2 of the 4 wheel caps are missing. I replaced them once and
within a few days, someone stole them while I was parked at a market
so never replaced them
o INTI roof rack – a few small rust spots showing up, I was planning to
rattle can them with Rust-o-leum but will hold off until you get a
chance to check it out.
o Hi-lift jack paint is peeling off and has some rust. I’ve had it for maybe
10 years.
o Rubber seals around fender flairs are cracked and need replacing
o One fender flare wobbles which I believe is due to one or more of the
plastic bolts missing
o There appears to be a small oil leak somewhere in the engine
compartment. I was planning to have the engine steam cleaned to try
to isolate it, however may just bring it to my mechanic and have him
figure it out
o DS rear door dome light switch – I think you saw my post on MUD
about this, planning to look at it today
o Some exterior cosmetic rust on the sliders – I typically rattle can them
annually with Rust-o-leum.
I’m sure there are a few more items that need some attention however the above are
my best attempt to list them all. If you/we find others it wasn’t an attempt to be
misleading or less than honest, it just that sometimes you live with things that aren’t
working correctly but are minor and don’t think about them.
If by chance I do think of more stuff, I will send you an email with those additional
items.
HOLY $hit, was not expecting that!
After reading through it, I knew that this cruiser was well taken care of and Brian seemed to be a straight shooter. So again, without seeing a single picture, I am already pondering the ridiculousness of this truck. So after a few messages back & forth I made arrangements to check it out on Sunday (yesterday). At this point I was almost sure that I was driving this bad boy home.
Now, to convince the (Cue mission impossible intro music)
I explained to her that since both rigs are the same year and have the same color interior, I can do a lot of swapping and not lose most of the investment I got in my current rig. Plus if it gets too pricey, which it probably will, I promise to sell my 60 and maybe my current 80 as well. Was expecting but I got the green light. Fast forward to Sunday afternoon and I am at Brian's house. Finally see the truck and everything checked out so we go for a quick test drive. No driveline noises, no caster problems, no weird noises, no check engine, A/C is cold, solid wheel feel, no real rust, it felt right. So I wave bye to the mrs and I am set. An added bonus was that I got a trunk full of OE removed parts from the truck and a binder of receipts from 10 years ago for all maintenance and mods done. I was more than satisfied with my decision to buy a truck that I wasn't even in the market for.
So now that the truck is in my driveway and I am slowly coming back to reality, I have decided that I will be swapping over some things and will end up putting the old 80 for sale.
I would like to thank @Brian Waag for the wonderful truck, all the detailed info, and a smooth transaction. Here's just a few pics of the truck and that wonderful binder of info.