ideas to get the e-brake drum off

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

May 14, 2015
Oceanside, CA, USA
Hi all, an ih8mudder that 's been really helpful to me has suggested I post this to see if someone has another idea. The problem is I am trying to get inside the e-brake drum on my HJ47 trophy to hopefully solve the problem of why the e-brake is always slightly on and why it's not really adjustable (this happened after I unbolted the assembly to remove the seats).
So here's what I've done and what needs to still be done:
1. I have removed the drive shaft (after draining the t-case oil).
2. I can't slide the drum cover completely off the front shaft because it runs into the crossmember (see pics). This happened I assume when I had a 5-speed transmission put in and the whole thing got moved back because the front drive shaft is a little longer than the original.

I used a crow bar to push against the e-brake housing to push it away from the crossmember and slide it a little more but I don't think I can get more than another 1/4 inch of slide by pushing it more.

Any thoughts on how to solve this one? Thanks in advance.
(The first pic shows how much I've been able to slide it off. the other two show the touch point that doesn't allow more slide)





Last edited:
Lower the transfer just enough to clear (1").
Yep. I don't know what set-up you have (whether a rear crossmember or rear motor mounts), but lower the rear on a jack. A transmission jack helps.

by unbolting the four bolts on each side of the crossmember that supports the main transmission?
Loosen or remove the front engine mount bolts, then jack up the front of the engine enough to clear it.
Loosen or remove the front engine mount bolts, then jack up the front of the engine enough to clear it.

Try this first. You should be able to tilt the drum down just far enough to clear the crossmember and it’s a lot easier than messing with the rear mounts and lowering the drivetrain that way. Don’t bother unbolting the mounts from the engine. Just take the two lower nuts off the motor mounts and jack the front of the engine up.
Interesting thought the torque tube on the long wheel base was further back. Only have a few later FJ40s with that style tube but believe the arch lines up so the driveshaft is centered under the highest point. Clearly a split transfer case as all HJ47 troopies were. That would mean it should have the crossmember under the transmission.
Loosen or remove the front engine mount bolts, then jack up the front of the engine enough to clear it.

That is how I do it on my 70 fj40 with a 79 transmission and transfer. Only need to jack the front up a little. Your pic looks very similar to how mine looks.
I noticed in the first picture that with the transfer case being pushed back further the e-brake cable is too short now and binds where it enters the attachment sleeve. On my own rig I had the same problem. For my situation I re-drilled the backing plate so I could rotate it clockwise about 30 degrees.

Does anyone know if Paraglider can purchase a longer cable to resolve this without having to re-drill and rotate the backing plate?
Hi all, I wasn't getting notifications that people were responding after the first couple of mudders, so went ahead in the meantime with taking off the 8 bolts on the frame that attach the crossmember that supports the transmission and then lowered the drivetrain very slowly. I have two cruiser jacks and one hydraulic jack under the transmission and t-case to support it. I had to lower it about a half inch for the drum cover to clear. the drum wouldn't tilt enough to clear it. Also, the drive train isn't centered under the torqued part of the crossmember. It's much more to the right. Had it been centered, the drum would have cleared without messing around with lowering the front-end of the drivetrain. Thanks everyone for contributing.

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom