I put an end to my Charcoal Canister problems for good! (2 Viewers)

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So, I should be ok with just running an inline fuel filter without a check valve.

I removed my EGR so the VCV isn't active (I should just remove this too...).

The only concern with running this way is there is no way to "vent" like out the bottom of the charcoal canister...

Thoughts anyone?

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Hey LS1FJ40 how did the inline fuel filter work out for you? Did the fuel smell go away?
 
Haven't had any issues whatsoever.
 
Have you noticed any fuel savings with this mod?

What filter did you purchase?

Sorry for all the questions...
 
At the risk of opening a can of worms and a 9 month old thread I replaced the CC with the AutoZone VC120 which fixed the fuel tank pressure issue but 2 weeks later I still have the very strong smell of gas. Wife won't let me put the truck in the garage because of the smell.
Tried the fuel filter trick on the tank pipe but so far I still have the gas smell. I have left the CC in place and connected to the VCV . Smell might be coming from what remains in the CC so I will leave it a week. I checked that the VCV draws a vacuum (not measured -just felt it).
Not sure if it is typical but I only get the smell when the engine is running or has just stopped. If I leave the truck an hour or so there is no smell - even in an enclosed space. This makes me think something else is at play than just just the tank venting. I am also sure it rules out the cracked tank possibility.
 
Irish, drive the truck normally. When you stop, pop the gas cap open to see if you still have pressure build up, the air will whoosh out if you still do.
 
No pressure problems since I changed the CC but still have the gas smell.
 
Does it smell when the tank is full or at any level??
Good question. I did all kinds of crap to my Scrambler trying to fix a gas smell only to find out the filler/vent tubes were leaking. I figured it out after filling up and parking on a hill.
 
Does it smell when the tank is full or at any level??

I have run 2 tanks through it since I changed the CC. Smell is there regardless of how much is in the tank. If I drive with the windows open I can smell the gas which tells me it is coming from forward of my driving position. Also when the motor is stopped the smell goes away after about 1hour. If the tank was venting surely it would continue?
 
I have run 2 tanks through it since I changed the CC. Smell is there regardless of how much is in the tank. If I drive with the windows open I can smell the gas which tells me it is coming from forward of my driving position. Also when the motor is stopped the smell goes away after about 1hour. If the tank was venting surely it would continue?

I had the smell of gasoline and I didn't do anything to the CC, I just changed the gas cap. Have you changed your gas cap?
 
I had the smell of gasoline and I didn't do anything to the CC, I just changed the gas cap. Have you changed your gas cap?

Nope. For all it is I think it can't hurt. I think @NLXTACY has them on his site.
 
I had the smell of gasoline and I didn't do anything to the CC, I just changed the gas cap. Have you changed your gas cap?

Nope. For all it is I think it can't hurt. I think @NLXTACY has them on his site.
 
In the past I rebuilt my canister but recently the problem popped back up and once I experience a problem 3 times I change directions and look for a final fix.

The canister has 3 lines -
1 - comes straight from the tank with a one way valve at the canister < the problem
1 - goes to the VCV valve
1 - out the bottom and vent to the outside:eek:

After reviewing the FSM I see no reason for a check valve (the problem) so I ellimanated it.:grinpimp: After 1000 miles with 100° - 35° temp and 1000' - to 7500' altitude I see no codes, gas smell, or problems down the road. Im done with this problem for GOOD.

If you think this mod will add to global warming keep it to yourself:deadhorse:

NOTE: Pictures cheerfully stolen form internet and not mine :moon:

The process -

Grind the rim off the canister to grain inside access
Pop it open
Drill a ~1/4" hole on the tank side where you see the ball
Dump the ball out and make sure the passage is clear
Replace the active carbon inside
Reassemble the canister
Press the top in place and tack weld close
Paint the cut line to keep everything pretty
Never worry about your canister again.

If you dont have the skills PM me for help

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Did you consider "JB Weld"-ing it? Doesn't seem like it could have enough backpressure to pop a glue seam (maybe?)
 
Charcoal Canister vents the gas fumes through the charcoal and out the bottom. When heavy venting occurs where your charcoal cannot keep up you will still have some gas fumes because they all vent to the outside. :meh:
 
Did you consider "JB Weld"-ing it? Doesn't seem like it could have enough backpressure to pop a glue seam (maybe?)

No mainly because I have a welded welder within 10'. I have heard others using JB with no problems. The top fits similar to a paint can and I do agree it should not have much pressure.
 
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No one believes my 3fe gets 12.5 around town and 14 highway with 35's and 4:88's and armor but I do. Mileage is a good sign of maintenance. A well maintained rig will get good mileage, a poorly maintained rig not so much..... But who cares about miles per gallon, it all about smiles per gallon. And I am totally doing this to my 91 instead of trying to replace the canister. last summer I literally had gas shooting out my filler neck at 10,500ft when I removed the filler cap, so I know the old boy needs it. Thanks landcruiserphil
 

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