I put an end to my Charcoal Canister problems for good!
- Thread starter LandCruiserPhil
- Start date
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Yes
yeah but its original and 30 years old lol.
I did mine a little differently.
I didn’t want to replace the active charcoal, unless necessary. So I drilled out the check ball from the top and sealed the hole with epoxy putty.
I didn’t want to replace the active charcoal, unless necessary. So I drilled out the check ball from the top and sealed the hole with epoxy putty.
I drilled out the check valves, hated it, then went to the salvage yard and got a different OEM charcoal canister with the check valves still intact.
What about the mod did you hate? Truck run different? Fumes? other? Just wondering what to look forward too..
Thanks,
dg
Thanks,
dg
I did the same thing, drilled out the check valve ball, I cut the lid off, then used epoxy to seal the lid back on. Drove to Ouray colorado again this year. Absolutely no pressure. Last year when I hit Ouray, the pressure when I took off my gas cap sprayed out for 10 minutes. Only issue Ive had so far, on hot days or when Ive been running it hard and then I shut off the engine for 15-30 minutes, then start the engine up, it seems as some of the vapor is going back into the engine. When I turn the engine over, it takes longer to start. I generally hold the gas pedal down and it starts right up. Anyhow, way better than gas fumes and pressure in the tank.
It's been a couple of weeks since I made this mod, happy to report no pressure in the tank and no fumes under the hood... So far, real happy with the results.
1984 FJ60
If this is not the right place for this, please let me know. Been lurking on this site for a while. Incred knowledge base! First time posting.
We used Phil’s fuel vapor canister/ charcoal canister post and rebuilt the original/ OEM canister. Thank you Phil! Not difficult with the tutorial. Total cost was around $31. $13 charcoal, $11 engine paint, and $8 JBWeld. We had carb cleaner, sander and filter material. Approx 2 hours working time, 36 hrs waiting time. Pics are of the “filters” we made, 2 round ones from used n95 masks. The small one for the tube going down into the charcoal was felt from a furniture pad- glue removed. Found an old tire valve stem and removed the valve to use for the bottom hose. Connect the valve stem to the fender hose with a hose clamp.
Removed smog and have a new carburetor. New vacuum hoses. Rebuilt OEM radiator and new water hoses. Experiencing intermittent motor killing with shuttering - at idle and driving. Possibly from 8 mos old gas (with stabilizer) while it was worked on. This happened prior to all of the work. We added new gas and it helped reduce the dying a bit, still happens at different RPM. Hoping the rebuilt canister will solve the issue. Hopefully the info below will help anyone else doing this.
What we did to the canister:
Take Pictures as you go!
Remove clamps From canister.
Removed bottom plate.
Blow out the canister with air. Ours still smelled like gas. We then filled it with water a couple of times to ensure we didnt perform a NASA type event.
Used a belt sander to expose the lid separations in the roll- it came apart easily. It started opening before we finished sanding b/c of the inner spring. Open it on something you will throw away. we used open paper bags.
One of the round inserts holding the filters has a ring to match the top spring.
Wire brush on a drill to sand off flaking paint and rust form the canister and clamps. Clean well.
Remove felt filter from inside the large tube that goes into the charcoal- ours was in pieces. This exposes the second (inside) bearing.
Blow outside and inside bearings with carb cleaner.
Use fish tank charcoal, bought 40 oz and needed 80%. Washed the new charcoal in a fine colander- its very dusty. Then dry it at 300° In the oven to reactivate.
Cut used n95 masks to match the old filters.
Cut the felt furniture pad glue off. Cut to fit the pad for the large tube. Dont worry if it stays, the charcoal will hold it once its re-assembled.
Taped off the silver part of the lid with the hose labels before painting. Cleaned and painted with black high temp engine paint, let dry 12 hrs. Then baked the painted parts at 200 to set, per mfg instructions.
Re-assembled with JB weld on the seam. Used a rubber mallet to help the lid on tight. Put painters tape on the seam to keep the clamps clean.
Used vise clamps to hold it closed tight overnight.
Sanded off the extra JB weld.
Touch up paint over the JB weld.
Put it back in the Land Cruiser.
If this is not the right place for this, please let me know. Been lurking on this site for a while. Incred knowledge base! First time posting.
We used Phil’s fuel vapor canister/ charcoal canister post and rebuilt the original/ OEM canister. Thank you Phil! Not difficult with the tutorial. Total cost was around $31. $13 charcoal, $11 engine paint, and $8 JBWeld. We had carb cleaner, sander and filter material. Approx 2 hours working time, 36 hrs waiting time. Pics are of the “filters” we made, 2 round ones from used n95 masks. The small one for the tube going down into the charcoal was felt from a furniture pad- glue removed. Found an old tire valve stem and removed the valve to use for the bottom hose. Connect the valve stem to the fender hose with a hose clamp.
Removed smog and have a new carburetor. New vacuum hoses. Rebuilt OEM radiator and new water hoses. Experiencing intermittent motor killing with shuttering - at idle and driving. Possibly from 8 mos old gas (with stabilizer) while it was worked on. This happened prior to all of the work. We added new gas and it helped reduce the dying a bit, still happens at different RPM. Hoping the rebuilt canister will solve the issue. Hopefully the info below will help anyone else doing this.
What we did to the canister:
Take Pictures as you go!
Remove clamps From canister.
Removed bottom plate.
Blow out the canister with air. Ours still smelled like gas. We then filled it with water a couple of times to ensure we didnt perform a NASA type event.
Used a belt sander to expose the lid separations in the roll- it came apart easily. It started opening before we finished sanding b/c of the inner spring. Open it on something you will throw away. we used open paper bags.
One of the round inserts holding the filters has a ring to match the top spring.
Wire brush on a drill to sand off flaking paint and rust form the canister and clamps. Clean well.
Remove felt filter from inside the large tube that goes into the charcoal- ours was in pieces. This exposes the second (inside) bearing.
Blow outside and inside bearings with carb cleaner.
Use fish tank charcoal, bought 40 oz and needed 80%. Washed the new charcoal in a fine colander- its very dusty. Then dry it at 300° In the oven to reactivate.
Cut used n95 masks to match the old filters.
Cut the felt furniture pad glue off. Cut to fit the pad for the large tube. Dont worry if it stays, the charcoal will hold it once its re-assembled.
Taped off the silver part of the lid with the hose labels before painting. Cleaned and painted with black high temp engine paint, let dry 12 hrs. Then baked the painted parts at 200 to set, per mfg instructions.
Re-assembled with JB weld on the seam. Used a rubber mallet to help the lid on tight. Put painters tape on the seam to keep the clamps clean.
Used vise clamps to hold it closed tight overnight.
Sanded off the extra JB weld.
Touch up paint over the JB weld.
Put it back in the Land Cruiser.
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a worthy first post and a good reminder I have an extra canister waiting to be rebuilt.
Trusty Rusty
SILVER Star
Bumpity bump! Everyone still happy with this mod?
Haven't popped the lid off to drill out the BB, but did pull the line off from the tank (installed a small fuel filter) and blocked off the line running into the VSV. Fingers crossed, but seems like it may have solved the problem. Planning to complete this mod just to keep things 'stock looking'.
Good info here @LandCruiserPhil , appreciate the detailed write-up!
Haven't popped the lid off to drill out the BB, but did pull the line off from the tank (installed a small fuel filter) and blocked off the line running into the VSV. Fingers crossed, but seems like it may have solved the problem. Planning to complete this mod just to keep things 'stock looking'.
Good info here @LandCruiserPhil , appreciate the detailed write-up!
I did it a few year back. Piece of cake and solved the problem. Also still looks original because the rubber like on top hides the seam where I cut it open.
I ended up just replacing with the AC Delco unit. Solved my gas tank pressure issues. Been a year I think. No problems.
Trusty Rusty
SILVER Star
I went the less sophisticated route. 
End game will be to open the canister and gut the BB for that beautiful factory look. What a relief (pun intended?)!
End game will be to open the canister and gut the BB for that beautiful factory look. What a relief (pun intended?)!
Old Nick
GOLD Star
Giving this thread a bump as I just got the canister open and drilled out the bb (thank you @LandCruiserPhil for the excellent write-up). Cleaning everything up this afternoon, adding charcoal, then epoxying it back together. Paint in the a.m. and install tomorrow evening.
Like most of what I've read above, my wife's rig has been getting a good deal of pressure in the tank (longs sighs and fumes when opening the fuel cap, which is brand new). When the pressure in the fuel system gets high, it takes more cranking than it should to get it started.
Hopeful that this mod will make a big difference.
Cheers.
Like most of what I've read above, my wife's rig has been getting a good deal of pressure in the tank (longs sighs and fumes when opening the fuel cap, which is brand new). When the pressure in the fuel system gets high, it takes more cranking than it should to get it started.
Hopeful that this mod will make a big difference.
Cheers.
I didn't bother with epoxy when I did mine. Just cut it open very carefully and there will be a decent friction fit between the lid and the can. When you put it back together, just apply a coat of your favorite flavor of silicone gasket maker around the edge of the lid and pop it back in there. Stable enough it won't go anywhere, but easy to service in the future.
I definitely drilled out the BB on mine as well. I played with it for a bit, trying to understand how it was supposed to work. It was free to move and should have been free to vent as designed, yet my tank was OBVIOUSLY building too much pressure, venting for several seconds every time I opened it. A gas station attendant once said, "I think you got a snake in there!"
No more BB, no more problem.
Old Nick
GOLD Star
Thank you for all of that. The gasket sealer sounds like a great idea.I didn't bother with epoxy when I did mine. Just cut it open very carefully and there will be a decent friction fit between the lid and the can. When you put it back together, just apply a coat of your favorite flavor of silicone gasket maker around the edge of the lid and pop it back in there. Stable enough it won't go anywhere, but easy to service in the future.
I definitely drilled out the BB on mine as well. I played with it for a bit, trying to understand how it was supposed to work. It was free to move and should have been free to vent as designed, yet my tank was OBVIOUSLY building too much pressure, venting for several seconds every time I opened it. A gas station attendant once said, "I think you got a snake in there!"
The pressure things sucks... lol.
I used regular ol Toyota FIPG.