- Thread starter
- #61
I think it is just the actuator. The second harness you are remembering is the actuator sensor and that is what they didn't include. I have posted pics above of the additional oarts i will need to buy
I need more protection (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ClassyJalopy
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
Time for some updates. I pulled out my factory rear and found a lot of surface rust on the frame.
Had to use a wire wheel and stiff steel wire brush to get the scaly pieces off and then primed it with RustOleum Rust Reformer and 24 hours later painted with Metallic Enamel. Looks much better now.
The rear axle is easily 400 lbs heavy. Got it on a couple of dollies and slid it under the truck. So far I have the rear control arms hooked up and still have a ton more to do.
Had to use a wire wheel and stiff steel wire brush to get the scaly pieces off and then primed it with RustOleum Rust Reformer and 24 hours later painted with Metallic Enamel. Looks much better now.
The rear axle is easily 400 lbs heavy. Got it on a couple of dollies and slid it under the truck. So far I have the rear control arms hooked up and still have a ton more to do.
Looking at the texture of the repaint I don’t think you got all the bubbling rust off. Reason I say this is I underwent a similar project. Then went back at a new area with an air needle scaler and rust was flying off. I hit the area I already wire wheeled and painted and there was still a ton of rust.
Air needle scaler gets all the rust and is a ton less work than a wire wheel.
Air needle scaler gets all the rust and is a ton less work than a wire wheel.
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- #64
Thanks for giving words to my fears
I hear ya about the air needle scaler but I lack the air compressor, the space for it in the garage and also the funds for a decent setup. I am hoping that rust reformer actually does some damn work too. We will see next spring!
- Thread starter
- #65
Just finished buttoning up the brakes with new lines. Turned the ignition ON and had my wife pump and the brake (pedal feels great!) and keep it pressed. Opened the left rear caliper bleeder and nothing!! Zilch - zero fluid!!
The reservoir is at max and no matter how much we pump the pedal I don't get any brake fluid to come out of either left or right bleeder! any ideas what I might be missing here?
The reservoir is at max and no matter how much we pump the pedal I don't get any brake fluid to come out of either left or right bleeder! any ideas what I might be missing here?
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Well here is my opinion. That truck now is trashed. If you are on trails with Jeeps and trucks with 37-38" tires there is no way you are gonna follow them without some type of carnage. I would just use this as a total trail truck and find me another daily driver. I would upgrade my lift, get an aftermarket front and rear bumper and just trail ride the s*** out of it. If you don't want to do that then I would still get an after market front bumper, fender, corner lamp and try to clean it up and detail the hell out of it to remove as many scratches as possible.
As MongooseGA said when we trail ride we test the limits but know when a trail or obstacle is pure stupidity and just bypass it. I love my LX470 and I try to keep it in the best shape possible even though I do trail ride it.
As MongooseGA said when we trail ride we test the limits but know when a trail or obstacle is pure stupidity and just bypass it. I love my LX470 and I try to keep it in the best shape possible even though I do trail ride it.
- Thread starter
- #68
Figured it out! The battery terminal was loose. Tightened it up and the bleeding was a breeze. Getting closer to finishing this up. Just need to route the wiring harness and torque the control arms once I have the truck on the ground.
- Thread starter
- #69
So finished the rear locker install. The low range brand harness I bought made the wiring a breeze.
I have noticed to engage the locker, I need to turn right or left and move the truck a few inches before the locker engages (indicated by the light on the switch). Is that expected?
I have noticed to engage the locker, I need to turn right or left and move the truck a few inches before the locker engages (indicated by the light on the switch). Is that expected?
If you wheel that hard the 100 series is not the truck for you. At this rate the truck will be a total loss by end of wheeling season.
Have you considered an 80 series with exocage or perhaps a beat up Jeep? Not being a smart ass but you clearly are not one for finesse when off reading haha
Have you considered an 80 series with exocage or perhaps a beat up Jeep? Not being a smart ass but you clearly are not one for finesse when off reading haha
If it's an electric locker that is normal
- Thread starter
- #72
The wiring harness I used for the rear locker has no safety features built into it at all. Which means I can engage the locker at any speed, regardless of if I am in the low range or not. What are the consequences of accidentally engaging the rear locker at highway speeds?
I think I will pull the fuse for the locker for everyday use and plug it in when I go wheeling.
I think I will pull the fuse for the locker for everyday use and plug it in when I go wheeling.
That's badass dude! Very nice swap.
As for locking at speed... IDK... Makes me think of all of the times we've wondered what would happen if we smacked a car into reverse while driving. We've all wanted to do it, but has anyone really?
I vote don't test your luck
As for locking at speed... IDK... Makes me think of all of the times we've wondered what would happen if we smacked a car into reverse while driving. We've all wanted to do it, but has anyone really?
I vote don't test your luck
- Thread starter
- #74
That's badass dude! Very nice swap.
As for locking at speed... IDK... Makes me think of all of the times we've wondered what would happen if we smacked a car into reverse while driving. We've all wanted to do it, but has anyone really?
I vote don't test your luck
Given that the locked rear makes my rear wheels hop when turning on tarmac - I do not ever want to lock it at any speed on street.
Now sell me your ARB bullbar already!
- Thread starter
- #75
On second thought, I think a safety/kill switch would be better than fiddling with the fuse all the time:
Safety Switch
Safety Switch
@ClassyJalopy - Nice work on the install. As far as a locker safety switch, I'd grab another switch of the same design as your locker switch, then group them together where the factory locker switch goes.
The engine dies... Tried that in a Chevy Cavalier many years ago and it was really uneventful.
Can confirm. I was driving on the highway in my old 2nd gen 4Runner 3.0 auto, and my friend reached to the back seat for something and knocked the shifter into reverse. Sequence of events: scared the crap out of me > I pulled to the side of the road with no brakes or steering > started it back up > found a way to calm down > got back on the road still shaking.
Love this truck by the way @ClassyJalopy . Can't beat a beater
- Thread starter
- #78
Can confirm. I was driving on the highway in my old 2nd gen 4Runner 3.0 auto, and my friend reached to the back seat for something and knocked the shifter into reverse. Sequence of events: scared the crap out of me > I pulled to the side of the road with no brakes or steering > started it back up > found a way to calm down > got back on the road still shaking.
Love this truck by the way @ClassyJalopy . Can't beat a beater
Thanks. I am slowly nursing her back to her nicer former self, one body panel at a time.
These would be some good protection IN BUDGET.
Well crap. This makes me think of "never meet your heroes". I guess it's good that terrible things don't happen.
Those aren't protection. They're liabilities.
