Misfire issues perhaps more?? (1 Viewer)

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Do not buy eBay coils, even if it has Denso written on it. I always buy coils and spark plugs from rockauto.com. There are three things I can think of now. God forbid low compression on cylinder 3 or the wiring harness that connects to the ignition coil 3 has some type of damage. Dead/clogged injector on cylinder 3.
Do not disconnect the battery for resetting your check engine light, get yourself a cheap OBD2 scanner. Put a known good ignition coil on cylinder three and reset the check engine light using OBD2 scanner, stop unplugging the battery.
Before you spend a lot of money on parts, do a quick compression test on cylinder 3. Borrow compression tester tool from your local parts store. If compression is good, then swap the injector with a known good injector.
Injector swapping is very easy and straight forward, specially on these non VVTI engines. I have a video on "how to replace injectors".
The reason you smell fuel is because one of the ignition coil or spark plug is unable to burn fuel and that's why you smell raw fuel. I was smelling raw fuel in the engine bay of my car year and half ago and upon inspection I found failed injector insulator.
 
Do not buy eBay coils, even if it has Denso written on it. I always buy coils and spark plugs from rockauto.com. There are three things I can think of now. God forbid low compression on cylinder 3 or the wiring harness that connects to the ignition coil 3 has some type of damage. Dead/clogged injector on cylinder 3.
Do not disconnect the battery for resetting your check engine light, get yourself a cheap OBD2 scanner. Put a known good ignition coil on cylinder three and reset the check engine light using OBD2 scanner, stop unplugging the battery.
Before you spend a lot of money on parts, do a quick compression test on cylinder 3. Borrow compression tester tool from your local parts store. If compression is good, then swap the injector with a known good injector.
Injector swapping is very easy and straight forward, specially on these non VVTI engines. I have a video on "how to replace injectors".
The reason you smell fuel is because one of the ignition coil or spark plug is unable to burn fuel and that's why you smell raw fuel. I was smelling raw fuel in the engine bay of my car year and half ago and upon inspection I found failed injector insulator.
Could the coil have damaged the wiring harness?? I've driven only 1,000 miles in 2 years. I have a obd2 and have been clearing the code that way. Just unplugged the batter to swap the coils.

If these are indeed knockoffs then I should buy all new ones before any more damage can be done then.

Also, what would cause an initial cylinder 1 misfire code, then not getting that code at all anymore. When driving i got a multiple misfire code along with cylinder 3 &4. But havnt gotten those codes anymore. Just cylinder 3.
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Did you get spark plugs from eBay also? Ignition coil won't damage wires. The ignition coils you have in your car is 100% knock off.
No. Everything else was fron belle lexus Scottsdale. The coils, stupidly enough I got from ebay. SMH.
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Did you get spark plugs from eBay also? Ignition coil won't damage wires. The ignition coils you have in your car is 100% knock off.
Just out of curiosity, what is the telltale sign on those coils for being counterfeit?
 
I just bought my LX470 a month ago and having the same issues which was driving fine prior. I replaced spark plugs and moved my ignition coil from Cylinder 1 where the misfire is to cylinder 3 and still having misfire in Cylinder 1. It seems to be an injector issue. I found others are sending them out for testing and to get cleaned and serviced.
 
Just out of curiosity, what is the telltale sign on those coils for being counterfeit?
Hard to differentiate, but the ones shown by the OP in the photo seem counterfeit for some reason. When he mentioned that he bought them from eBay, it made me even more doubtful.
There are some legit sellers on eBay that sell genuine parts. Seller like Bell Lexus north scottsdale also have an eBay account but their parts are OEM. In short avoid buying new parts from eBay. eBay is good for buying used genuine parts.
 
Do not buy eBay coils, even if it has Denso written on it. I always buy coils and spark plugs from rockauto.com. There are three things I can think of now. God forbid low compression on cylinder 3 or the wiring harness that connects to the ignition coil 3 has some type of damage. Dead/clogged injector on cylinder 3.
Do not disconnect the battery for resetting your check engine light, get yourself a cheap OBD2 scanner. Put a known good ignition coil on cylinder three and reset the check engine light using OBD2 scanner, stop unplugging the battery.
Before you spend a lot of money on parts, do a quick compression test on cylinder 3. Borrow compression tester tool from your local parts store. If compression is good, then swap the injector with a known good injector.
Injector swapping is very easy and straight forward, specially on these non VVTI engines. I have a video on "how to replace injectors".
The reason you smell fuel is because one of the ignition coil or spark plug is unable to burn fuel and that's why you smell raw fuel. I was smelling raw fuel in the engine bay of my car year and half ago and upon inspection I found failed injector insulator.
What is wrong with disconnecting the battery?
 
It resets your car's ECU memory and all other presets. It will reset fuel trims, idle settings and may shift rough, because it also resets your transmission computer. You do not need to disconnect battery to replace ignition coil.
 
I am awaiting the new denso coils arriving today. Hopefully this remedies the issue.
However I was looking around and since head gasket might be the cause for these codes I took a look into my radiator and expansion and found this. Again. New oem radiator repalced 2 years ago. Fully flushed and toyota red coolant added. New water pumps and thermostat as well.

What do you guys make of these findings?
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Replaced coils with the rockauto denso. What a difference in build quality. The ones I had were definitely suspect.

The issue though is.....in still getting the p0303 light.

After clearing the code it seems that it only comes on when throttle comes down to idle.

If I'm blipping the throttle anywhere above 1k rpm the light remains off. Then when the rpms settle it illuminates.

Thoughts?
 
Possibility are endless but what I can think of:
1 Vacuum leak. At higher RPM, the engine compensate for it with more fuel. (Could be intake manifold gasket)
2 Clogged Injector.
3 Low spark, inspect your spark plug and the wires that connects to ignition coil.
4 Weak fuel pump or clogged fuel filter.
5 Faulty MAF sensor. Very easy to diagnose. (Start your engine, while engine is idling, unplug the MAF sensor. If the engine doesn't shut off after unplugging the MAF that indicates your MAF sensor is faulty.
 
Possibility are endless but what I can think of:
1 Vacuum leak. At higher RPM, the engine compensate for it with more fuel. (Could be intake manifold gasket)
2 Clogged Injector.
3 Low spark, inspect your spark plug and the wires that connects to ignition coil.
4 Weak fuel pump or clogged fuel filter.
5 Faulty MAF sensor. Very easy to diagnose. (Start your engine, while engine is idling, unplug the MAF sensor. If the engine doesn't shut off after unplugging the MAF that indicates your MAF sensor is faulty.
Tested the MAF. Engine died when disconnected. What's your thoughts on thr coolant pictures?
 
Tested the MAF. Engine died when disconnected. What's your thoughts on thr coolant pictures?
Either someone mixed two different types of coolants while doing the coolant flush, failed to completely drain the engine block, probably just drained the radiator and filled it with new coolant or mixed tap water with the concentrate coolant instead of distilled water.
 
Either someone mixed two different types of coolants while doing the coolant flush, failed to completely drain the engine block, probably just drained the radiator and filled it with new coolant or mixed tap water with the concentrate coolant instead of distilled water.
Probably failed to drain the engine block. I supplied the coolant and the distilled water for the flush when rad. And other items were replaced.

So not indicative of head gasket issues? That was my main concern. Although I know that gets pretty frothy and nasty.
 
Probably failed to drain the engine block. I supplied the coolant and the distilled water for the flush when rad. And other items were replaced.

So not indicative of head gasket issues? That was my main concern. Although I know that gets pretty frothy and nasty.
Coolant getting frothy is a red flag. Go to Autozone and get yourself engine combustion leak detector, it comes with blue liquid that changes color, if there is a leak.
 
Coolant getting frothy is a red flag. Go to Autozone and get yourself engine combustion leak detector, it comes with blue liquid that changes color, if there is a leak.
I don't have any froth. Oil filler cap and filler neck are clean and lipstick shows clean oil as I just changed it in January.

I was asking if my coolant looked as if there may be a head gasket leak.
 

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