oh yeah same for me but i just stay away from hard areas where damage can occur when going with family.
I need more protection (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ClassyJalopy
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oh yeah same for me but i just stay away from hard areas where damage can occur when going with family.
but armor isnt gonna get him through the small trails with his current group. adding bumpers and guards will add more weight and his buddies wont be able to winch him out everytime.
he ask if blinging his tool would help, we are saying he is using his tool wrong.
The difference in width between a modern-ish Jeep and the LX is 10 inches. I've been through some really tight stuff in Moab where I kind of wished at the time I had a few more inches to spare, but...hell yeah we went. In March I slipped off some wet stuff and busted the side all up. Fixed it, and have been out at least once a month since. The next time something breaks...I'll fix it.
Fix it and push on. Add armor as time and budget allows. Each time you go out, you'll learn a little more about how to tackle different obstacles (or how not, hah).
Some of y'all need to trade yours in for a minivan
Fix it and push on. Add armor as time and budget allows. Each time you go out, you'll learn a little more about how to tackle different obstacles (or how not, hah).
Some of y'all need to trade yours in for a minivan
all comes down to what the op wants for his 100 to be, a beater trail rig or not.
I don't agree
There's a whole lot of earth to cover in between beater and princess.
- Thread starter
- #47
I want it to be a beater trail rig with a few scratches here and there but no major dents or body parts missing.
- Thread starter
- #48
I am not sure why you think armor is bling. It will make it only slightly heavier (<10%) will add almost no width and will make much more resistant to trail damage.
I think he's saying that even with sliders, F+R bumpers, and skids, they still wouldn't have protected your truck from the damage it has. The lockers and more aggressive tires would give you more control and would actually have more of an effect.
This is the thing people are reacting to, I think. You can't have both a "beater" and "a few scratches here and there but no major dents or body parts missing"-- to most people dents and body parts missing are what makes it a beater. I take my truck on all kinds trails and have the scratches and a few very small (not major) dents to prove it, but it is in no way a beater.
I find going out on trails with modded TJs on 37s to be frustrating overall and try to avoid it, as the trucks are built for a different purpose (you can no more go some of the places they can than they can go 80 comfortably on the highway for 300 miles at a time) and i enjoy going out with modded Tacos, other 100s and modded 4Runners, if I can.
- Thread starter
- #51
I am a fan of lockers but I don't think I will be willing to get tires more aggressive than my KO2s. 90% of the time my truck is on pavement and i don't have storage room for a second set of wheels.
My play budget for the next 2 months is about $1500. Dobinson front bull bar is $1000 + shipping which will leave me with enough to buy a replacement fender.
But I heard from Crikey Mike that their bull bar doesn't work with Lx. So that might not work after all.
Off-road front and rear bumpers are typically more for gaining approach/departure angle, IME. I don't think they offer a whole lot of side protection (unlike sliders, which you already have) and unless you're dragging the factory bumpers on every obstacle, I don't know that it's the best use of your play money to solve the problem at hand. If I were in your shoes, I'd spend the money on swapping in an OEM locking rear and factory switch and possibly some MTs in a 255/85R16 size. The pizza cutter profile will provide more contact pressure per square inch and a more aggressive tread pattern will provide better mechanical keying into the terrain. A bonus is that the narrow tread nets good road manners and less noise than a wide tire. Beat out the busted fender and add a snorkel.
- Thread starter
- #53
So its been a couple of weeks since my last update. I have replaced the left front fender so my truck doesn't look complete busted up.
Went from this:
to this:
Went from this:
to this:
- Thread starter
- #54
Then about a week ago I found a locked rear out of a 99 LC - while it is being shipped to me, I have been reading up on how to wire it up.
Right now the cleanest option seems to be all in one harness:
www.lowrangeoffroad.com
At $180 it is a little expensive but it has switch, wiring harness etc. all in one package. SO it would definitely be easiest to work with.
Hopefully with a locked rear there will me much less slipping around. Next time I find a cache of money somewhere, I will buy a bull bar and get some fender protection rails fabbed up.
Right now the cleanest option seems to be all in one harness:
Ultimate Toyota Electric Locker ELocker Wiring Harness Kit by Low Range Off Road (TDI-ELWH)
Ultimate Toyota Electric Locker ELocker Wiring Harness Kit by Low Range Off Road (TDI-ELWH) Sometimes called the TRD Elocker, E Locker or E-Locker.
At $180 it is a little expensive but it has switch, wiring harness etc. all in one package. SO it would definitely be easiest to work with.
Hopefully with a locked rear there will me much less slipping around. Next time I find a cache of money somewhere, I will buy a bull bar and get some fender protection rails fabbed up.
- Thread starter
- #55
This big hunk of metal arrived today! Notice the missing lock actuator assembly 
- Thread starter
- #56
So got another update on the rear locker. They have shipped out only the lock actuator (pic 1 below). So it's clearly missing
Diff lock cover: 41456-60010
Diff LOCK INDICATOR: 84222-60090 (pics courtesy of Partsouq).
Called the seller again only to be told that they are cheap parts are not part of the deal and I should source them myself. I have insisted that they find those parts and send them to me but I am not very hopeful here. I will also source out the bolts and the two missing nuts for the pumpkin. Hopefully it will all work out in the end and won't end up costing me more than an aftermarket locker would have costed!
First pic is from @sdnative in another thread.
Diff lock cover: 41456-60010
Diff LOCK INDICATOR: 84222-60090 (pics courtesy of Partsouq).
Called the seller again only to be told that they are cheap parts are not part of the deal and I should source them myself. I have insisted that they find those parts and send them to me but I am not very hopeful here. I will also source out the bolts and the two missing nuts for the pumpkin. Hopefully it will all work out in the end and won't end up costing me more than an aftermarket locker would have costed!
First pic is from @sdnative in another thread.
Nice move! I'll be interested to see how the install goes.
I think Slee sells an aftermarket actuator cover
- Thread starter
- #59
Slee's aftermarket cover is strictly for protection. I would still need the diff lock cover plate and the sensor
Are you sure that actuator is from the 99 LC? Looks different than mine but I admit it has been a while. I though the actuator had two harnesses attached to it, one for the motor and limit switches and another for the locked confirmation switch. I believe 5 wires on the first and two on the second.
EDIT: maybe it is and I'm just confused. I am trying to visualize how everything attaches.
EDIT: maybe it is and I'm just confused. I am trying to visualize how everything attaches.
