Hydro bump stops (2 Viewers)

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@woody where are they at ride hieght. It's really rare to have both wheels at full droop.

@Box Rocket, Adam they are one of the best things I've done to my suspension. While not on the slinky set up you two are I'm on Slee/ADS shocks and Slee springs.
 
@woody where are they at ride hieght. It's really rare to have both wheels at full droop.

@Box Rocket, Adam they are one of the best things I've done to my suspension. While not on the slinky set up you two are I'm on Slee/ADS shocks and Slee springs.
Thanks. Can you describe a bit of the type of improvements you’re seeing with them?
 
Basically at any high speed full compression there is not that hard hit into the bumpstop. They provide a very progressive stop at the end of the suspension travel. Honestly not near the issue now with my Slee suspension. But was night and day with my old Ironman as the spring rate was way lower and I blew through it constantly.
 
Basically at any high speed full compression there is not that hard hit into the bumpstop. They provide a very progressive stop at the end of the suspension travel. Honestly not near the issue now with my Slee suspension. But was night and day with my old Ironman as the spring rate was way lower and I blew through it constantly.
Gotcha. Thanks. Curious to hear woody's feedback. I don't overrun the stage4 slinky shocks very often (if at all, even when the truck has been airborne) so I'm debating how noticeable these would even be on my truck.
 
Gotcha. Thanks. Curious to hear woody's feedback. I don't overrun the stage4 slinky shocks very often (if at all, even when the truck has been airborne) so I'm debating how noticeable these would even be on my truck.
You aren't trying hard enough ;) I've overrun mine and had some hard hits.

@Corbet full droop with both may be rare, but it takes once for that bump/mount to contact the tire and cause an issue. I HAVE completely unloaded my suspension while wheeling.

I'd be curious to see any interference on the CTI setup that MetalCloak has....maybe at EJS I'll get a chance.
 
You aren't trying hard enough ;) I've overrun mine and had some hard hits.

@Corbet full droop with both may be rare, but it takes once for that bump/mount to contact the tire and cause an issue. I HAVE completely unloaded my suspension while wheeling.

I'd be curious to see any interference on the CTI setup that MetalCloak has....maybe at EJS I'll get a chance.
Haha could be. I'll see if I can get more air next time. ;)
 
@Corbet full droop with both may be rare, but it takes once for that bump/mount to contact the tire and cause an issue. I HAVE completely unloaded my suspension while wheeling.

I get that. But your still running the OEM link locations right?

So I guess what I'm saying is that your going to have some lateral movement of the axle through the travel. If the only place you have contact is at double full drop (both wheels) then that is probably the best scenario as it's the least likely to occur.

If you can eliminate it there too without compromising something else then obviously even better.
 
I get that. But your still running the OEM link locations right?

So I guess what I'm saying is that your going to have some lateral movement of the axle through the travel. If the only place you have contact is at double full drop (both wheels) then that is probably the best scenario as it's the least likely to occur.

If you can eliminate it there too without compromising something else then obviously even better.

Adjustable links, but OEM locations...yes. I'll get it on the CTI in a few weeks at EJS and get some pics. (Or call Corey and have him bring it by the house...lol)
 
Adjustable links, but OEM locations...yes. I'll get it on the CTI in a few weeks at EJS and get some pics. (Or call Corey and have him bring it by the house...lol)
Seems like the factory bump inside the coil could be modified without too much trouble to accept these? Would solve fitment issues no?
 
Seems like the factory bump inside the coil could be modified without too much trouble to accept these? Would solve fitment issues no?

Good point Adam, as the Timbrens are held on to their mounting plate/base with a single bolt so this solution could easily be adapted to the factory bump stop location inside the rear springs. Maybe even for the front springs too?
 
Good point Adam, as the Timbrens are held on to their mounting plate/base with a single bolt so this solution could easily be adapted to the factory bump stop location inside the rear springs. Maybe even for the front springs too?

That plus the appropriate spacer just might work. "guessing" the Timbren should be positioned at full bump so full compression meets the top inch of the bellows.

HOWEVER...you are then relying on the coil buckets to absorb the full hit....IMO, not a great idea (my fronts are tweaked already). The frame is a far stronger point for that mount to contact.
 
That plus the appropriate spacer just might work. "guessing" the Timbren should be positioned at full bump so full compression meets the top inch of the bellows.

HOWEVER...you are then relying on the coil buckets to absorb the full hit....IMO, not a great idea (my fronts are tweaked already). The frame is a far stronger point for that mount to contact.
Maybe just need to develop some bucket reinforcement for anyone that can't play nice with their toys. ;)

I agree with you the frame would be far better than relying on the coil bucket. Just looking for what is the least painful solution, modifying problematic fitment to work in a very tight space at the frame or reinforce the bucket and move the bumps there.
 
air bump.JPG


I drew this up a while ago but never got around to making it.
bucket reinforcement would be goo too. although absorbing the energy over 2.5" of hydraulic travel vs half that of hard rubber should put less stress on the bucket from the same hit.
 
Hey @Corbet and @woody I got a set of some Timbrens last week that Timbren said was the right setup for an 80. The rear bracket is much too tall I can tell, similar to what you both experienced. No biggie I can cut and weld the bracket. I have a couple questions though. I think the bumpstops they sent are different than the ones both of you are using. Mine look to be a shorter bump than what you have. Is this the difference of the "standard" vs softer durometer that you guys mentioned?

Mine look like this:
T196200461.jpg


Last question, I've been searching for this info but haven't been able to find it. Do either of you happen to know the fully compressed height of the rubber portion of the bumpstops?
 

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