Hydro assist ram (1 Viewer)

[890man]

I daily drive my rig and now rolling 37s. My box is sloppy and needs a rebuild. I was thinking of getting it tapped for a ram with plans to add one soon but i would really like to know is how streetable this setup is. Would you run it on a DD?

 

[2fpower]

10 mile commute sure. Much more not for me. Remember this is hydro assist, so it is better than full hydro.

My issue is that you have no road feel and it can be touchy which is multiplied effect at highway speeds. Not always, but just does not give me that 100% comfort level. Of course I had to delete my sway bar, so that also makes corners on highways fun. EVERYONE MOVE TO THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE BUS!

 

[890man]

Would it be possible to install a bypass for street duty? Flip some valves to shutoff the supply/return and loop the line on the cylinder. If the loop was restricted, it could act as a steering stabilizer. Would this be bad on the cylinder? Could it even work? Dumb idea?

 

[2fpower]

Don't know about that. If you could shut off the two lines the steering box works normally. Same as having a box tapped for hydro and putting caps on it. When my line broke from the darn ninja rock, I took off the lines, put in plugs and drove back to camp. was harder to steer as the system now has to compress/expand the ram.

The other issue would be the ram side as it would still be connected and need to draw fluid in and out as it moved with the steering arm.

You capture lots of air with it unplugged, so lots of bleeding.

Back to your question, if you could somehow shut the two lines from the box, then loop the hoses on the ram, maybe....however, my non-engineering mind says that would be lots of additional drag/friction/(whatever the cool word) is to move the ram back and forth in that loop.

 

[Oscar Witte]

I imagine it could be possible with a valve on each port on the ram, and a valve on a line connecting both sides.

 

[890man]

Oscar, thats the configuration i had in my mind. Just switching valves would not introduce air. I would think it would just act as a steering stabilizer in the bypassed position. It could create too much drag however just as 2fpower stated.

2f, were the lines on the cylinder looped. I would guess not because of the line break. When connected, you would have a push/pull effect on the ram because of the flow. There will be drag created through friction and fluid transfer through the hose but a damper does the same thing.

I wish i had a system to test. 3 valves and some custom hoses. Wish i had more hydraulic experience too.

 

[890man]

I picture turning it into an external bypass shock of sorts. Something else i have no experience with.

 

[2fpower]

It was a few years back that I had the line failure -- so memory is foggy at best. Was on a great trail at SMORR. As I recall, we did loop the line on the ram, and it steered really hard back to the trailer. Was very glad to get out of that trail.

 

[bwakeling]

Probably not going to help you, as I have a smaller ram.

Ruland SP-20-F Two-Piece Clamping Shaft Collar, Black Oxide Steel, 1.250" Bore, 2 1/16" OD, 1/2" Width (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063KZR6I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aK6cAbC14CGXP

Did you limit it internally or externally? I assume the Surplus Centre rams are serviceable but I have not received mine yet to verify. Ideally will do it internally because the roads are pretty nasty here in the winter..salt solution on the road.

 

[bwakeling]

Ram finally showed up today. Looks like there is a fair amount of room behind the axle for it but will have to be careful to make sure the axle mount doesnt get in he way of pulling the diff.

Also measured the tie rod travel and I got just over 9 1/4 inches of travel. Does that sound about right?

 

[Tapage]

Ram finally showed up today. Looks like there is a fair amount of room behind the axle for it but will have to be careful to make sure the axle mount doesnt get in he way of pulling the diff.

Also measured the tie rod travel and I got just over 9 1/4 inches of travel. Does that sound about right?

As I said before .. 9" it's what you look for ..

 

[bwakeling]

Making some progress on this. Welds look like Sh%t but will see if they hold up!

 

[bwakeling]

Hope to have this wrapped up before Christmas. Box is rebuilt and tapped. Just have to mount the massive PSC resevoir and new Delerae cooler and runs the lines and should be good to go!

 

[bwakeling]

After a few years of having the ram behind the axle I am going to redo it and move it to the front with a RHD steering arm. I have redone the mount a few times attempting to improve the position but it is always just a bit twitchy with the tie rod roll. I am comfortable driving it but would never let anyone else. Hoping getting the ram off the tie rod will give stockish steering characteristics. Going turbo and expect the slug to be moving a bit faster in the near future.

I have ordered the PSC 1.5 x 8 ram limited to 7.5 inches. Question I have is what fitting should I be using to attach to the RHD arm?

 

[Broski]

After a few years of having the ram behind the axle I am going to redo it and move it to the front with a RHD steering arm. I have redone the mount a few times attempting to improve the position but it is always just a bit twitchy with the tie rod roll. I am comfortable driving it but would never let anyone else. Hoping getting the ram off the tie rod will give stockish steering characteristics. Going turbo and expect the slug to be moving a bit faster in the near future.

I have ordered the PSC 1.5 x 8 ram limited to 7.5 inches. Question I have is what fitting should I be using to attach to the RHD arm?

Have you clocked the tie rod

 

[bwakeling]

Have you clocked the tie rod

yes, but it still rolls a bit and gives the funky feeling.

 

[Broski]

I remounted my three time before I clocked mine. Now that it's clocked all the funky feeling is gone

Mine is set up just like yours, I would revisit the clocking

 

[bwakeling]

I have all the parts and am doing a knuckle rebuild so committed to moving it to the front.

 

[Broski]

I have all the parts and am doing a knuckle rebuild so committed to moving it to the front.

OK, I hope it works well for you. For me I like that it's more protected in the back and that it exerts equal pressure on the lower knuckle bolts.
With it mounted in front the drivers side lower knuckle bolts well see twice as much pressure. JMHO
One of the benefits of installing Hydro assist in the back on a 80 is that it takes pressure off the right side lower knuckle bolts. Again JMHO
In all the broken knuckle bolt threads it always the right side that breaks because it has to do twice the work. Just sayin

 

[Deathvalleypaul]

Does the Red Neck Ram kit require removal of the front swaybar??
Any comments about the Red Neck conversion for an FJ80 (1993-97)?