The heater and all the duct will have to go in before the main metal dash
The AC pipe hole on the firewall wasn't on the same spot as the old version cab.
Builds Hybrid FJ79/62 Series Build
- Thread starter MSGGrunt
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The heater and all the duct will have to go in before the main metal dash
The AC pipe hole on the firewall wasn't on the same spot as the old version cab.
crushers
post ho
actually either can go in first but if you do the heater core before it might be easier ...
ie
you don't have to remove the metal dash to repair or replace any part of the heating system.
ie
you don't have to remove the metal dash to repair or replace any part of the heating system.
Don't get in a hurry with the metal dash. Like Wayne said put the heater core in first...its a lot easier. I would also get all your pedals and the steering column sorted out too. There is a lot more room to work with the dash out.
What about the wiring harness? I haven't figured that one out yet. Which way is it routed. I know that the fuse box goes in the kick panel but where does it go from there.
How about the end of the pedal brackets that don't bolt to the firewall...where do they bolt to. Its definitely different b/t the 75 and 79 so something custom will have to be done.
What about the wiring harness? I haven't figured that one out yet. Which way is it routed. I know that the fuse box goes in the kick panel but where does it go from there.
How about the end of the pedal brackets that don't bolt to the firewall...where do they bolt to. Its definitely different b/t the 75 and 79 so something custom will have to be done.
- Thread starter
- #246
I haven't even thought about the wiring. I have stripped the 80's harness of all the non essentials like power windows, locks, AC stuff, etc and it is much smaller that what I started out with. I'm sure I will have to be creative finding space for the ECU, interior fuse box, etc... I will keep the 80's harness and splice the 75 series wiring into it. Like the wiring off the steering column, the gauges, blower fan, switches, etc. This will probably be the one area that I will have to ask for help with as I can't read a wiring diagram to save my life.
I will have to take a look at the pedal bucket. Where I am not using a clutch pedal, I wonder if it would be easier to source all the parts from an automatic 1FZFE equipped 79 series and just use the correct pedal bucket? Unless the 75 series one can easily be made to fit. I'm sure a 79 series one wouldn't be the easiest to come by and probably expensive. Maybe Proffitt's has a solution.
Speaking of Proffitt's, I'll be using their steering column relocation bracket to make the installation of the 70 series steering column line up correctly.
I will have to take a look at the pedal bucket. Where I am not using a clutch pedal, I wonder if it would be easier to source all the parts from an automatic 1FZFE equipped 79 series and just use the correct pedal bucket? Unless the 75 series one can easily be made to fit. I'm sure a 79 series one wouldn't be the easiest to come by and probably expensive. Maybe Proffitt's has a solution.
Speaking of Proffitt's, I'll be using their steering column relocation bracket to make the installation of the 70 series steering column line up correctly.
- Thread starter
- #247
TURBO??? I have gone down this road with a prior 1FZFE and though the motor really comes alive once turbo'd, this build will sap my funds enough without another $4000 or $5000 grand spent on a turbo. Though I have learned never to say never. The truck will not be a DD, so I am sure I will be happy with the power of the 1FZFE with 36" tires and 4.88s. Turbo Diesel and now we would be talking.
Put the metal dash in last...you will thank yourself. You need to sort the wiring out first.
The pedal bucket isn't an issue really...just bolt the one up you have from the 70 series. The only difference between the manual and auto pedal is that the auto has a wider pad.
The steering column plate is a pain...well if you got the one that is prefabbed it won't be. I went the thrifty route and had to fit/weld it up. Its a bit thin in my opinion, maybe 16 gauge but it seems to be ok.
give a shout if you have any questions about what i've already done...glad to save you some time and headache if I can.
The pedal bucket isn't an issue really...just bolt the one up you have from the 70 series. The only difference between the manual and auto pedal is that the auto has a wider pad.
The steering column plate is a pain...well if you got the one that is prefabbed it won't be. I went the thrifty route and had to fit/weld it up. Its a bit thin in my opinion, maybe 16 gauge but it seems to be ok.
give a shout if you have any questions about what i've already done...glad to save you some time and headache if I can.
- Thread starter
- #249
Got to spend some time today working on removing the front of the bed in preparation for shortening it 13". I have to say that I now officially hate spot-welds. I tried using a spot-weld cutter and abandoned that for just drilling them out with an ordinary drill bit. I'll be a bit nervous actually cutting the bed, but it had to be done.
What a waste cutting the new bed!
- Thread starter
- #252
But It is, IMHO, easier than stretching the 80 series frame. And I like the looks of a shorter bed. In the end I will have a bed that is 6' 3". This is a picture of what the shorter bed looks like. It's from Proffitt's Cruisers, but I am not sure what the final measurements of the bed are.
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- Thread starter
- #253
I will have 14" from the front of the lower wheel well opening to the front edge of the bed. And will have 1" clearance between the truck cab and bed. 1" seems like enough for what the truck is designed for. If I was going to wheel it hard with a lot of frame and body flexing I may have left a bit more space, but 1" should be fine.
I love the look of the shorter bed. I think you made the right choice, as long as you have the fab skills to pull it off!
I'm tuned in man, keep up the good work.
I'm tuned in man, keep up the good work.
crushers
post ho
new beds are cheap and the final result looks nice.
lengthening a frame is a lot of work, longer drive shaft, longer brake lines, possible fuel lines, wiring etc.
lengthening a frame is a lot of work, longer drive shaft, longer brake lines, possible fuel lines, wiring etc.
You might want to reconsider the 1" I was originally only going to leave 1" on mine. I felt it was a bit tight. I measured the gaps in a bunch of different trucks and they were 1.25-1.5 inches. I think proffitts told me the gap using the factory frame was between 1.25-1.5 depending on where you measured. I went with 1.5 on mine and it doesn't look too wide.
- Thread starter
- #257
Thanks Swamprunner. I was initially thinking 1.5" spave, but thought that would be too much of a gap. I guess I should reconsider this. Thankfully I haven't cut the bed yet and I can measure it again and adjust accordingly. This is your truck correct Swamprunner? I can see your very sophisticated measuring device that you used to set your gap.
I agree Wayne, cutting the bed for me was a two fold decision.
1: I really do like the looks of a shorter bed.
2: Modifying the bed was much easier than messing with the frame of the truck, brake lines, fuels lines, driveshafts, Ebrake cable, wiring harness, etc...
I agree Wayne, cutting the bed for me was a two fold decision.
1: I really do like the looks of a shorter bed.
2: Modifying the bed was much easier than messing with the frame of the truck, brake lines, fuels lines, driveshafts, Ebrake cable, wiring harness, etc...
crushers
post ho
1.5" is about perfect.
1" would probably work but if you get frame flex then it might rub during articulation. better safe than sorry.
1" would probably work but if you get frame flex then it might rub during articulation. better safe than sorry.
I settled on 1.5" because it was better safe than sorry. Also, instead of just drilling holes in my bed mounts for the bolts I cut longitudinal slots so I would have a bit of adjustment when mounting the bed.
Yes the good ole 2x4 that doesn't measure 2x4 but 1.5". Worked perfectly for me. It easily clamps on the front of the bed. Jam it tight up to the cab, square everything up and start fabbing away on some mounts.
With the 1.5" gap I had to stretch the frame 13 3/4" to get the wheel centered in the wheel well. So if you use the 1.5 gap you should have to shorten the bed by approx 13 3/4 to get the wheel centered.
got some new pics/video of my truck I will post up soon.
Yes the good ole 2x4 that doesn't measure 2x4 but 1.5". Worked perfectly for me. It easily clamps on the front of the bed. Jam it tight up to the cab, square everything up and start fabbing away on some mounts.
With the 1.5" gap I had to stretch the frame 13 3/4" to get the wheel centered in the wheel well. So if you use the 1.5 gap you should have to shorten the bed by approx 13 3/4 to get the wheel centered.
got some new pics/video of my truck I will post up soon.
- Thread starter
- #260
2"x4" method it is. And I actually believe the true thickness of a 2"x4" is 1 3/8", slightly under 1 1/2". Splitting hairs here of course. I do like the idea that I can clamp the 2x4 to the bed and not have to have another set of hands holding something. This works out well where I am working alone. I'd rather measure a bunch of times and get advice from those that have already gone down this road as once I cut the bed there is no turning back...
