I probably could move the radiator back an inch, but it is already very close to the front of the motor with the 79 series nose being shorter than the 80 series. I have to run an electric fan (Ford Lincoln Mark VIII) so as long as I have the room I guess I could move it back with no issues. I'll have to wait and see how much room I have to move it back once the fan is in place.
70s are such a pain to burp the air out of. I'd just delete the rad cap and put a small expansion tank and filler up near the fire wall. That would give you lots of room above the rad.
Maybe so, but I am running a 1FZ-FE out of an 80 series with the OEM 80's radiator. Adding a 1.5" body lift to clear the radiator filler is a very simple fix for the hood clearance issue.
looks like there will be a 2"-3" b/t the grill and bumper...hard to say from the pics how far past the fenders the side of the bumper sticks. I don't have one laying around so I will probably be building one to fit.
wondering what springs you have on the chassis right now? are they mediums or heavies? I'm setting/builing mounts for my engine right now and need to set it as low as possible so the turbo will clearnance the hood and the engine sits level fore and aft. I think I'm going to go with J springs b/c I need all the clearance I can get.
also....have you taken the dash you got from crushers apart...i'm still trying to figure out how the hell the clutch pedal and clutch master cyl mounts to the 79. Maybe the parts I have are the wrong ones b/c they don't look like they want to work.
I have no idea what springs are on the truck as they were on it when I bought it. I'd guess they probably give about two inches of lift.
On the master cylinder that I am using off the 1980's 70 series I got from Wayne the lip on the firewall of the 79 body where the master cylinder bolts on interferes with the MC. My idea, though not tested, is to just space out the MC about an inch to clear this lip. The other option is to trim the lip. I have done nothing with the pedal bucket. I believe the parts out of a 70 series should pretty much just bolt on, except for that lip that causes clearance issues with the MC.
does your have the stupid spacer about 6" long on it? if so ditch it, cut the activator rod down the EXACT same length ... SHOULD work but no promises.
we had to do that to an 80 install we are working on.
I don't have the spacer but I do have a clutch master that is suppose to be for a 79 series. Its brand new but I don't see a part number. The pedal fits properly under the dash but the holes in the firewall don't make line up. There is a pic of the fire wall and pedal here https://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/459921-project-79-5-a-6.html
The brake booster/pedal will bolt in once I trim the firewall lip and drill out the mounting wholes. The steering column looks like its a direct bolt in with some shortening of the shaft between the column and box requrired.
The brake booster that I am using is off the donor 80 series, so that may make a difference over one specifically designed for a 79 series. A 1" spacer will allow it to clear that lip and then I will just have to lengthen the actuator rod. The 80 series booster studs do line up with the 79 series hole in the firewall so that is not an issue for me.
I believe my pedal bucket bolts right up as well, but not sure.
I need some help with my heater blower motor. The heater assembly I have is out of a Canadian spec 1986 BJ70 that I got off Crushers and need to replace the 24 volt heater motor with a 12 volt one. Wayne says the blower motor out of a 85/86 60 series is the same, just 12 volt. Does anyone have the ability (beno, Dan) to cross reference some numbers so I can search for the right motor.
I'm using the 80 booster/master cyl as well. I chose to grind the lip down. making a spacer will be way more time consuming. Everything bolts up now.
FYI your steering column and clutch assembly aren't going to work without some work. You are using the same older dash stuff I am. The whole clutch deal is way different. Look on yoopers thread and you will see. The steering column bolts in but is cocked to the passenger side quite a bit. The plate bolted to the fire wall must be customized to bring it back to center. It will require a good bit of fab work on the firewall plate to line up straight.
About your heater issue. If a 60 series fits that is your easiest way out. You can look up the part #'s yourself on toyodiy.com. If the 60 series doesn't work I may have an extra 70 blower motor for sale. I don't want to let it go yet as I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I also have a brand new take out hvac system from a mine truck. I paid good money for it. I may sell it and use the older stuff I acquired after I bought the new stuff.
Reading others threads I have decided that yes, removing the lip on the firewall will be easier than having a spacer built.
I'm using the 80 series automatic so the clutch pedal issue will not pertain to me.
I'm hoping the 70 series brake pedal bucket works without too many issues.
The heater blower motor should be an easy fix especially if a 60 series will work.
The steering column being off-centered will be an issue and if you figure it please pass along your solution. I'm thinking a custom plate that bolts to the 70 series column, but moves the shaft over to where it needs to be to line up properly on the 79 series firewall.
In putting the interior back in or should I say building from scratch, does the heater and all the duct work go in before the main metal dash or would the metal dash go in first? I'm told that after a year and 8 months that my dash will be arriving soon...
