hundy fan clutch - should I re-oil for idle temps? (1 Viewer)

[LostAfrican]

Hi,
Any of you do the fan clutch mod on a hundred? Worth it? Advisable?

Our LX470 engine coolant temp climbs above 200F even above 205F if I let it, idling in a line of cars at the border. I am not happy that the engine can't cool itself to optimal temp when idling. Admittedly it's sitting there running the AC in a hot environment for an hour or more.

I have a blue clutch (a spare one even) and after reading the threads am contemplating changing the oil to 25K CST. Should I also re-index the aperture?
Good idea?

Our LX is an 01 with the OEM AC condenser fan, which does come on...but still temps climb. What would you advise?

With forward motion and air flow, temps come back down well, even when towing etc...its just the idle I am worried about.

Thanks all!
A

 

[ARJMN]

The 2UZ-FE runs a bit hotter than older engines in the LC, what is your normal running temp? Most modern engine run hotter as well as part of the emissions strategy. The 2UZ-FE can safely operate in the low 200s, 215 is getting to the point of being alarmed. You might try to clean your radiator inside and out. Scale, dirt, and other deposits can degrade the thermal exchange efficiency over time.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Our LX470 engine coolant temp climbs above 200F even above 205F if I let it, idling in a line of cars at the border. I am not happy that the engine can't cool itself to optimal temp when idling. Admittedly it's sitting there running the AC in a hot environment for an hour or more.

Sounds fine to me. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/normal-operating-temp.992572/ and https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/normal-operating-temps.603351/

 

[Otter]

My 04 has been running a bit warm the last month or so. It usually stays around 195. In the 5 miles from my house to my son's school and sitting in line idling to pick him up, it easily hovers between 200 and 210. If I sit for a bit idling, with the added ac condenser fan, it can go up to 220. AC will start getting warm around 215 and cut out between there and 220.

I haven't cleaned the radiator, inside or out, since I purchased this one last fall.

 

[Funner]

Put in neutral or park, and add a little throttle to speed up the fan, this should start cooling.

 

[Otter]

Put in neutral or park, and add a little throttle to speed up the fan, this should start cooling.

Yep, this is what I do when I have to sit for long.

 

[LostAfrican]

Thanks for all of your replies.
I'd say our normal operating temp is good...with airflow and decent ambients we can cruise along at 186F...higher ambients and more work with the AC on we'll see low to mid 190s.

Clutch fan, radiator, t'stat and radiator cap are all new in the last 2-3 years, and look clean.

It just bothers me that sitting idle (in Park) we can see some "thermal runaway" as temps climb into the low 200's. It seems that with no engine load other than the AC it should be able to keep itself below 200F. I do use the throttle to increase the fan speed but this seems like it shouldn't be unnecessary.

There are comments in the threads that indicate that the AC turns itself off when engine temp hits the 220-225 range...perhaps that's actually based on refrigerant pressure rather than temperature. Perhaps until that happens I shouldn't worry.

Presumably as the coolant temperature increases and the delta to the ambient temperature increases more heat can be exchanged and the engine will find an equilibrium....but this needs to happen before the AC cuts out, even at the border for 2 hours in MX at record temps... you know...because its a Land Cruiser.

 

[inkpot]

We still do the fan clutch upgrades for 80s and 100s here at Kevin's old shop for those folks that dont want to do it themselves. John

 

[Dbcooper]

We still do the fan clutch upgrades for 80s and 100s here at Kevin's old shop for those folks that dont want to do it themselves. John

where are you guys located?

 

[medtro]

Hi,
Any of you do the fan clutch mod on a hundred? Worth it? Advisable?

Our LX470 engine coolant temp climbs above 200F even above 205F if I let it, idling in a line of cars at the border. I am not happy that the engine can't cool itself to optimal temp when idling. Admittedly it's sitting there running the AC in a hot environment for an hour or more.

I have a blue clutch (a spare one even) and after reading the threads am contemplating changing the oil to 25K CST. Should I also re-index the aperture?
Good idea?

Our LX is an 01 with the OEM AC condenser fan, which does come on...but still temps climb. What would you advise?

With forward motion and air flow, temps come back down well, even when towing etc...its just the idle I am worried about.

Thanks all!
A

I have a blue clutch and changed the oil to 30K CST recently. I didn't have any overheating problem. It has been running at 194F all the time, 192F before I installed new radiator . I changed the oil because the clutch is out for other work. I am glad I changed the oil because there was not enough oil in it. I collected about one oz of old fluid from the clutch.

Old fluid from the blue clutch with 202k miles.

 

[richardlillard1]

where are you guys located?

Mesa, near Country Club & Main

 

[LostAfrican]

Are there any concerns with the fan blades flexing forward and contacting the radiator with the fan clutch mod in a 100 series. @medtro thanks for sharing.... Did you adjust the aperture or just change the silicone?

 

[inkpot]

where are you guys located?

I'm Mesa near Country Club and Extension. Call/text Richard Lillard for details.at 4803992310.

 

[medtro]

Are there any concerns with the fan blades flexing forward and contacting the radiator with the fan clutch mod in a 100 series. @medtro thanks for sharing.... Did you adjust the aperture or just change the silicone?

I am not worry about fan blades hitting the radiator. I will report back if it happens.

I didn't adjust anything other than fluid change.

 

[inkpot]

I am not worry about fan blades hitting the radiator. I will report back if it happens.

I didn't adjust anything other than fluid change.

Agree with Medtro on this. We have juiced cluthes at 60,000 cst for special applications and it has never caused any interference between fan and radiator core.

 

[Dbcooper]

Mesa, near Country Club & Main

I will probably give you guys a call. I changed the fluid to a 15,000 CST but I seem to be overheating up steep hills. All new coolant components and many flushes. The fan clutch is new as well, but I dont really hear any "loud " roaring on start up. I mean its loud but how loud should it be?

 

[Somebodyelse5]

I will probably give you guys a call. I changed the fluid to a 15,000 CST but I seem to be overheating up steep hills. All new coolant components and many flushes. The fan clutch is new as well, but I dont really hear any "loud " roaring on start up. I mean its loud but how loud should it be?

I just did mine in my 80 with 30k and adjusted the set point. Loud roar on the 80. It should be noticeable

 

[Dbcooper]

I just did mine in my 80 with 30k and adjusted the set point. Loud roar on the 80. It should be noticeable

Interesting. So you think the 15k is not enough? should I swap to 30k? How probable can a new Aisin fan clutch come defective?

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Interesting. So you think the 15k is not enough? should I swap to 30k? How probable can a new Aisin fan clutch come defective?

There's a ton of discussion on the fan clutch, mods, and types... mostly in regards to the 80, but the blue hub info should be relevant to the 100. Everything I read suggests that 15k cst will be good for most of the country where a "hot day" is ~90F, but out here 30k seems to be the way to go. I also cooked the thing to adjust the spring set temp.

But, something to note, my 100 has been happily running an unmodded fan clutch for a few years and I don't have temp issues (I'll be putting a scangauge on it soon to see some real numbers) before I get around to modding it (the list is long on the 100, and the fan clutch is way down).

 

[Dbcooper]

There's a ton of discussion on the fan clutch, mods, and types... mostly in regards to the 80, but the blue hub info should be relevant to the 100. Everything I read suggests that 15k cst will be good for most of the country where a "hot day" is ~90F, but out here 30k seems to be the way to go. I also cooked the thing to adjust the spring set temp.

But, something to note, my 100 has been happily running an unmodded fan clutch for a few years and I don't have temp issues (I'll be putting a scangauge on it soon to see some real numbers) before I get around to modding it (the list is long on the 100, and the fan clutch is way down).

gotcha! I have an 80s 3FE, green hub. Ill probably in the future change it to 30k. Thanks for the info my dude!