If your buddy @TKO Fab ever decides to sell the "rollbar" as a kit, put me down for one
I like where this thread is going.
I like where this thread is going.
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dats really nice. is interior authentic?Thanks! It's not a Tourer V but gets down via the LS6 that now powers it.
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Like the tube work! Looking forward to see how you do the soft top. Looks like a Heep windshield channel? And is the rear crossover bar taller that the forward one? Picturing almost a 1st gen 4runner roof line?
I'm liking where this is going. What do you plan on using for the soft top?
we have White Knuckle sliders on our '93 80 - they fit4x4Labs have quality sliders for the 93 & 94 with side by side cats. I had a setbon my 94 and would highly recommend them.
Do they legitimately work?
Ok so not to harp on a thing (while harping on a thing) but...Yes, they're 2x6" thick steel rocker replacements. I haven't personally had them on rocks yet but jacking it up from them doesn't budge anything. They're solid and not going anywhere.
There are a few members here who have documented this mod and all of them that I can think of did it because they wheel boulders and were looking to maximize ground clearance while maintaining a lower over all CG. I questioned this modification myself back then but they have proven to be a solid option.Ok so not to harp on a thing (while harping on a thing) but...
...how are they attached to the body panels with the rockers cut out?
It's not you, it's me. lol
I've just never seen such a thing in person. And I've seen alot of 'ideas'.
I'm just curious if the structural rigidity comes from their banging against the bottom of the missing rockers or are they are self-sufficient in terms of weight support. Meaning they do not rely on support from any other body part while supporting the weight of the truck.
What are they attached to I guess is my question.
Thanks and I apologize in advance for my ignorance.
And everyone else who is familiar with this sort of slider arrangement can comment how they see fit.
I'll learn it somehow. lol
Ok so not to harp on a thing (while harping on a thing) but...
...how are they attached to the body panels with the rockers cut out?
It's not you, it's me. lol
I've just never seen such a thing in person. And I've seen alot of 'ideas'.
I'm just curious if the structural rigidity comes from their banging against the bottom of the missing rockers or are they are self-sufficient in terms of weight support. Meaning they do not rely on support from any other body part while supporting the weight of the truck.
What are they attached to I guess is my question.
Thanks and I apologize in advance for my ignorance.
And everyone else who is familiar with this sort of slider arrangement can comment how they see fit.
I'll learn it somehow. lol
The way i did it, I cut away the curved rocker on the outer face. Leave the boxed in structure on the inner face. Look under the car, there's a boxed section where the pinch weld is. I left that in place.
I cut out the door jambs/sills so i could weld the RHS to the body within the rocker, and along the bottom edge beside the pinch weld.
I had to trim some bracing and gussets out where the pillars connect into the rockers. Removing door sills let me fully weld the pillars to the RHS. I stitch welded the RHS along the top edge, and the bottom edge. Then seam welded the door sills back in
Mine were positioned so i had a ¼" gap between the bottom edge of the doors and my RHS.
I used a 1x3" RHS, stitch welded to a 3x3" SHS. I cut and folded the 3x3 in on itself to create a tapered outer bottom edge.
I also drilled through the whole lot to weld tube outriggers in, and included a tube slider for more protection.
My method added a bit of weight, but compared to adding the average slider, i don't think it added a whole lot above that.
I jacked mine up from the tube slider many times
Rough sketch below. Actual body structure is kind of like the sketch. Did this about 10+ years ago, so can't remember the proportions.
I cut ¾" off the pinch weld as well and stitch welded it.
Mine increased clearance to the body very slightly. The biggest gain is, you have armour with no loss of clearance anywhere. No brackets hanging below the frame. No tube passing under the body/rocker
I wanted to maximise the connections I had back into the existing structure. I'm sure others have done it differently
You're replacing the visible, cosmetic, curved outer 1mm thick rocker panel with 3mm thick boxed RHS. Welding it into the body structure.
It's bomb proof.
If dropping a 3 tonne 105 series onto the rocker when sliding off a rock step doesn't move anything, nothing will
Im talking a hard slam that shakes your bones and shakes the whole vehicle
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These are done in essentially the same way. Fully welded to the cut sections and reinforced with gussets. Pulled the below photos from the PO.
I have 100% confidence in them and the extra clearance will go a long way. Will be putting them to test at Windrock soon.
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