How to: Replacing OEM Subwoofer in 3rd Row (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

bknblk said:
After looking into speaker options for my '00 LX, I finally found a higher end option. CDT is making a DVC 4 ohm 6.5" speaker that I'm hoping can replace my 2 4.5" "subs" :rolleyes:

Does anyone know if I can wire them parallel to drop resistance to 2 ohms without amplifier issues (Nakamichi)? If it will be an issue, I'll just connect each channel in the DVC separately.

I need to wait for some sound deadener to come in before the install, but I hope to start in a couple of weeks. I'll keep you updated
Click to expand...

You have two sets of outputs from the amp and two sets of 4 ohm inputs on the speakers, so there will be no wiring options to present a 2 ohm load to both sets of amp outputs. You can wire the speaker to present either a single 2 ohm load, a single 8 ohm load or two 4 ohm loads. So just wiring up each voice coil separately to each amp channel is probably going to be the best option.
 
I'll add here what I ended up doing with my sub... I used the same 6.5" sub as mechanixhorseman, but just the one to try to stay more within the enclosure parameters of the tiny stock box.

I started with cutting the old sub off it's frame to provide a flat base to install onto as otherwise the stock sub is inset in the box and the new sub is too large to fit that inset space...

20130523_211505.jpg


So then I just screwed the driver down into the plastic, using some rubber sealer stuff on the threads that came with my component set. At first I was only able to get 4 screws in as the metal frame from the old speaker was in the way at the other mounting locations. Then I remembered I have the handy thing called a drill and I drilled 4 pilot holes for the other screws. So the little guy is in there pretty good now... Also packed the box with some polyfill, just because I always do that with my boxes...so why not.

20130523_222419.jpg


The Mark Levinson amp in my 2001 LX is only providing signal to a single set of inputs to the sub, so if I were just hook it back up to that I don't know how much sound it would put out. But I'm replacing that amp anyway and have about 300 watts available to it and simply adjusted gains it so that it's on the ragged edge of handling the power. So I'm definitely overpowering the 150W RMS sub, but as long as I keep it distortion free, I think it should be fine. Always the chance the voice coil can't handle the heat and it melts down on me...but we'll cross that bridge when we come to it. On certain bass heavy songs at certain volume levels have to cut some gain out via the head unit...and vice-versa on other songs and moderate volumes. Overall you can definitely tell it's there and the power I'm giving it can really make the little kicker dance... Running numbers, I'm really, really tempted to port the box. The small box tuned to around 47-48Hz should give ~5dB gain centered around 30Hz, with 2db gains at 50+ Hz. Then since most head units equalized the low range around 50-60Hz, you should be able to level that out for a pretty flat gain everywhere in the sub-bass region...
 
Those are 1 ohm subs. Aren't you concerned that it may be too much for the 7-8 ohm range of the factory amp? I ended up going with two just so I could get the proper impedence for my JL 5 channel.
 
mechanixhorseman said:
Those are 1 ohm subs. Aren't you concerned that it may be too much for the 7-8 ohm range of the factory amp? I ended up going with two just so I could get the proper impedence for my JL 5 channel.
Click to expand...

Ah, so not the exact sub...mine is a 4 ohm model. Not sure if it would cause issues with the factory amp or not, I thought some were able to run a sub at 4ohms...but I'm not sure which system they started out with(two 4", DVC 6", or SVC 6"), mine was a single voice coil 6". But I also switched amps, so all good here...
 
codertimt said:
Ah, so not the exact sub...mine is a 4 ohm model. Not sure if it would cause issues with the factory amp or not, I thought some were able to run a sub at 4ohms...but I'm not sure which system they started out with(two 4", DVC 6", or SVC 6"), mine was a single voice coil 6". But I also switched amps, so all good here...
Click to expand...

That makes more sense. I have a feeling you might have ran into trouble by now if you were just running 1 ohm through the stock amp. Did you have any issues getting that fat lip on the sub to clear the mesh enclosure? I had to trim alot more than I wanted to to make it work.
 
mechanixhorseman said:
That makes more sense. I have a feeling you might have ran into trouble by now if you were just running 1 ohm through the stock amp. Did you have any issues getting that fat lip on the sub to clear the mesh enclosure? I had to trim alot more than I wanted to to make it work.
Click to expand...

No, even spaced out a little with the original sub frame as a spacer/mount, nothing contacted on the mesh speaker cover. I just popped the rear trim back in place with no modifications...
 
Probably a silly question: does the subwoofer need an amplifier?
Reason for the question is that I will probably going to change the factory amplifier with a new one. That will most likely be a 4-channel version.
The wiring daigram of my Orion head unit shows that the speakers are linked to the amplifier and a subwoofer isn't.
Is that correct?
 
koifish said:
Just replaced the foam around the sub woofer cone and it sounds great now. Thanks for instructions! Purchased the repair kit from ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/86150-0W010...LX-470-Rear-Subwoofer-FSK-6bt-1-/130698667123
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link. I just ordered one too. I will fix my cone as soon as the weather clears up (in a couple of months by the look of it). I used glue before, but I am suspecting that it might not have fixed it.
Where did you find the instructions? in this thread?
 
I received the kit and replaced the foam. Pretty straight forward although a bit finicky. I used a Dremmel to clean it all up.
I was surprised to see that my previous repair was holding up well.
I don't really notice too much difference but to be honest it is not a great subwoofer anyway. At least In know that everything works as it should.

I snapped some pics:

IMG_0489.jpg

IMG_0490.jpg

IMG_0492.jpg

IMG_0493.jpg

IMG_0494.jpg
 
DeltaT said:
I received the kit and replaced the foam. Pretty straight forward although a bit finicky. I used a Dremmel to clean it all up.
I was surprised to see that my previous repair was holding up well.
I don't really notice too much difference but to be honest it is not a great subwoofer anyway. At least In know that everything works as it should.

I snapped some pics:

IMG_0489.jpg

IMG_0490.jpg

IMG_0492.jpg

IMG_0493.jpg

IMG_0494.jpg
Click to expand...

Are this for the ML sub? Thanks,
 
Samak said:
Yes
Click to expand...
Thanks,
Got it fix last weekend.
There was a rip along the edge of the foam. I was able to put some adhesive all around the edge.
Let it dry for most of the day in a sunny day.
Plug the wire back it for a test before I installed everything back in.
Sound great and solid.
Installed all the covers back on and enjoy the music.
Thanks for everybody who contribute on this thread.
Specially locating all the tabs and screws that need to be taken out for the paneling.
Cheers...
 
I just did the silicone fix this afternoon. I opened everything and found that pretty much the entire edge of the foam was disconnected from the rim so I bought a tube and filled everything in. I'm letting it cure for 24 hrs but did an initial quick test and it sounded great.

Thanks for the help on this guys, I would have been paying an audio shop for a replacement if I hadn't looked this up.

Also, I would add that a cheap trim removal kit from the store helped out quite a bit here. And also, the bolt for the rear seat belt didn't want to come out, actually took quite a bit of work to get it off so I'm wondering if it was cross-threaded. But I got it 90% of the way back on and couldn't get it any further so I'll have to take another look at that at some point.

Anyway, thanks to those that contributed to this thread!
 
If I just disconnect the subwoofer completely, will the sound improve if I have already replaced the door speakers with some infinity speakers? I'm using the stock amp and HU still in my 99 LC.
 
mtnracer, if you're still around, I want to thank you for this awesome write up. Piece of cake following your instructions. You D'man!
 
Beware LX470 owners! I tried this last night and was surprised to find only 2 wires (red and black) instead of the 4 people are listing here.

It turns out the LX470 uses a 12 ohm speaker for the sub. I should have researched a bit more, but the Pyle in this thread was only $13 so I went for it. Anyway, I wired it up in series which should have provided 8 ohms. That was the best I could figure out last night.

I thought this would be a 1 hour project but it turned into a 3 hour project due to my poor research. Sound is OK but the front speaker replacements were much much better. I may be on the lookout for a more suitable replacement for the LX470 sub in the future if I have time.
 
We just purchased a 2014 Land Cruiser and I am quite disappointed in the sound, particularly the subwoofer. Has anyone replaced the stock JBL sub amp and/or stock JBL subwoofer? I'd like to replace one or both and keep the sub in the factory location so that we don't lose any cargo room. Was hoping someone had a reference for an aftermarket sub with sufficient dimensions such that it will fit the factory location. Thanks!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Super77
HOW TO: Broken wheel lug stud replacement
Replies
6
Views
731
Super77
Super77
K
Splicing in external Subwoofer
Replies
14
Views
1K
khansmith
K
B
How to fix? Bubbling…
Replies
5
Views
583
bdbuchan
B
phi1osopher
Silicone intake to replace OEM with "Helmholtz resonator"
Replies
17
Views
2K
FJFOOL
FJFOOL

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 4 (members: 0, guests: 4)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom