Any pics of your 6w3 install?
How to: Replacing OEM Subwoofer in 3rd Row
- Thread starter mtnracer
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Any pics of your 6w3 install?
I'll get you one, looks like s*** right now to be honest because I haven't made a cover for the speaker yet, but sounds awesome. (minus the rattles that I need to spend a couple of days chasing/ adding mass to panels)
I'm sure it hits. Had a few W7's when I was younger. I'm sure the w3 will be nice! just curious to see how far it sticks out.
anybody installed one of @BenCC 's sub covers? Would love to see a few pics. I'm not sure if they're available for purchase yet or not, can't find them on his site so that may answer the question...
forum.ih8mud.com
Builds - Benjamin’s 3D Prints Build
Mine is a nice match. I can take a couple pictures if you want. Yes please. Thanks.
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BenCC
Supporting Vendor
The cover only works with that specific subwoofer setup.anybody installed one of @BenCC 's sub covers? Would love to see a few pics. I'm not sure if they're available for purchase yet or not, can't find them on his site so that may answer the question...
Builds - Benjamin’s 3D Prints Build
Mine is a nice match. I can take a couple pictures if you want. Yes please. Thanks.
I had to use two .5" spacers, they are offset to bring the sub down a bit to clear the panels. I still need to finish the cover for it but you get the idea. My cut out of the plastic went a little rough, didn't have the right tools and tried to use a Dremel, will be covered and won't matter eventually.
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How did you attack the wood? Just drill and glue? I'm guessing the sub weighs around 10lbs or so. Just curious if the thin plastic sub housing was strong enough to support the mount and sub, long term.
Yep, 4-6 wood screws through the original housing and some glue (maybe liquid nails, don't remember), it's pretty stiff and strong. The sub has been installed for over 2.5 years, no issues.
Just finished up the Skar 6.5” sub install. Really straight forward thanks to the instructions on this thread. Definitely sounds better than the factory sub and I was able to tune it some with my head unit. I will be replacing the front and rear speakers eventually but for now it sounds probably 3x better than the factory sub.
To recap, I cut out the waffling in the back of the sub box to allow the skar sub to fit flat against the box. The speaker itself is larger than the factory sub but no additional cutting of the box is necessary. It lays flat on the sub box surface when you remove the foam away and the screw holes line up perfectly as well. I used drywall screws which worked great and I sealed the gaps that were present with some silicon gasket goop. It is worth the effort to seal them up and put a thin layer around the entire sub as no foam ring was included. I was surprised how much air was escaping around the edges of the sub and the gaps. No rattles and sounds great now.
I would give this job 1.5
and took maybe hour? Green and yellow were positive wiring on my truck. Black and red were negative.
To recap, I cut out the waffling in the back of the sub box to allow the skar sub to fit flat against the box. The speaker itself is larger than the factory sub but no additional cutting of the box is necessary. It lays flat on the sub box surface when you remove the foam away and the screw holes line up perfectly as well. I used drywall screws which worked great and I sealed the gaps that were present with some silicon gasket goop. It is worth the effort to seal them up and put a thin layer around the entire sub as no foam ring was included. I was surprised how much air was escaping around the edges of the sub and the gaps. No rattles and sounds great now.
I would give this job 1.5
and took maybe hour? Green and yellow were positive wiring on my truck. Black and red were negative.
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Nice job!
I went with the 2 ohm version in my 2006 to match the stock sub but you have me second guessing if the 4 ohm is any better. The 2 ohm sounds decent, definitely an improvement over the stock sub but really need to find someone local with the 4 ohm setup to have a bump off!
Does the allow the factory grill cover to fit back flush so everything looks OEM? And did you wire the dual voice coils in series so the amp "sees" 8 ohms?Just finished up the Skar 6.5” sub install. Really straight forward thanks to the instructions on this thread. Definitely sounds better than the factory sub and I was able to tune it some with my head unit. I will be replacing the front and rear speakers eventually but for now it sounds probably 3x better than the factory sub.
To recap, I cut out the waffling in the back of the sub box to allow the skar sub to fit flat against the box. The speaker itself is larger than the factory sub but no additional cutting of the box is necessary. It lays flat on the sub box surface when you remove the foam away and the screw holes line up perfectly as well. I used drywall screws which worked great and I sealed the gaps that were present with some silicon gasket goop. It is worth the effort to seal them up and put a thin layer around the entire sub as no foam ring was included. I was surprised how much air was escaping around the edges of the sub and the gaps. No rattles and sounds great now.
I would give this job 1.5
View attachment 2401030
Everything sits flush and the cover installs like nothing ever happened. And yes, I wired up all 4 wires so 8ohms is what it sees. It sounds good. Not audiophile sound but clean and clear bass is now being delivered. The one remaining issue I have is a ground “hum” through the whole system when the truck is running/driving. I’ve been traveling too much to figure it out. But for the money, that skar sub works really good. Just make sure you fill the gaps on the edges with some silicone so keep air in. It makes a difference.
I put this same Skar sub in my 2007. It sounds a ton better than the factory one. I meticulously replaced all the panel snap connectors and got all the rattles out. With my stock head and amp, but MB Quart separates in the front doors, and two ways in the rear doors, my system sounds pretty damn good for $$+effort:time. I don’t listen to rap, not sure this sub would help that genre...but then, what would?
Listen to him, this man is wise beyond his years...
@parnoren do you remember which unit you purchased? did you just take the sub out of the tube? i would like to try this. thanks
subscribed. My subwoofer just started rattling this weekend. Might be a torn cone, need to check it out. Blazing down a washboard road on Saturday with music loud probably didn’t help.
Just finished up the Skar 6.5” sub install. Really straight forward thanks to the instructions on this thread. Definitely sounds better than the factory sub and I was able to tune it some with my head unit. I will be replacing the front and rear speakers eventually but for now it sounds probably 3x better than the factory sub.
To recap, I cut out the waffling in the back of the sub box to allow the skar sub to fit flat against the box. The speaker itself is larger than the factory sub but no additional cutting of the box is necessary. It lays flat on the sub box surface when you remove the foam away and the screw holes line up perfectly as well. I used drywall screws which worked great and I sealed the gaps that were present with some silicon gasket goop. It is worth the effort to seal them up and put a thin layer around the entire sub as no foam ring was included. I was surprised how much air was escaping around the edges of the sub and the gaps. No rattles and sounds great now.
I would give this job 1.5
View attachment 2401030
Ill be installing this in a few days.
90WT
SILVER Star
Just finished up the Skar 6.5” sub install. Really straight forward thanks to the instructions on this thread. Definitely sounds better than the factory sub and I was able to tune it some with my head unit. I will be replacing the front and rear speakers eventually but for now it sounds probably 3x better than the factory sub.
To recap, I cut out the waffling in the back of the sub box to allow the skar sub to fit flat against the box. The speaker itself is larger than the factory sub but no additional cutting of the box is necessary. It lays flat on the sub box surface when you remove the foam away and the screw holes line up perfectly as well. I used drywall screws which worked great and I sealed the gaps that were present with some silicon gasket goop. It is worth the effort to seal them up and put a thin layer around the entire sub as no foam ring was included. I was surprised how much air was escaping around the edges of the sub and the gaps. No rattles and sounds great now.
I would give this job 1.5
View attachment 2401030
Thanks for sharing the Skar woofer info! I had one delivered this week.
For other folks considering this woofer, just wanted to add a few notes from my install last night.
I have an 06 LX470 with ML audio, stock head, stock amp, stock everything. Only two wires at the sub, black and red. I ordered a 4 ohm DVC sub and wired them up in parallel for a 2 ohm setup. Followed kpecks box modification. Installed back in the rig and the sub sounds like poo. Will remove it tonight, wire in series for 8 ohm setup and try again. I'm guessing that will be the ticket.
I figured I'd wire it as 2 ohm since it appears the original Mark Levinson woofer was 2 ohm. But again, the new sub at 2 ohm begins to sound bad at moderate volume. And bumps the original sub box pretty hard! Since I already own the DVC 4 ohm speaker, I'll keep it and try 8 ohm. But I wonder if the DVC 2 ohm speaker, wired at 4 ohms would be the best fit for original system?
My original sub went out a few years ago. I just unplugged it and ran without a sub since then, which isn't really all that bad. But excited to add this Skar to the mix none the less.
Thanks for sharing the Skar woofer info! I had one delivered this week.
For other folks considering this woofer, just wanted to add a few notes from my install last night.
I have an 06 LX470 with ML audio, stock head, stock amp, stock everything. Only two wires at the sub, black and red. I ordered a 4 ohm DVC sub and wired them up in parallel for a 2 ohm setup. Followed kpecks box modification. Installed back in the rig and the sub sounds like poo. Will remove it tonight, wire in series for 8 ohm setup and try again. I'm guessing that will be the ticket.
I figured I'd wire it as 2 ohm since it appears the original Mark Levinson woofer was 2 ohm. But again, the new sub at 2 ohm begins to sound bad at moderate volume. And bumps the original sub box pretty hard! Since I already own the DVC 4 ohm speaker, I'll keep it and try 8 ohm. But I wonder if the DVC 2 ohm speaker, wired at 4 ohms would be the best fit for original system?
My original sub went out a few years ago. I just unplugged it and ran without a sub since then, which isn't really all that bad. But excited to add this Skar to the mix none the less.
Interested in the outcome i expect it to be much better at 8 ohms i believe all the speakers are 8+ ohms for later model years. My skar is in the garage waiting on my install. I changed my front speakers to 8 ohms from 2 ohm and its a million times better.
