How to: Replacing OEM Subwoofer in 3rd Row (3 Viewers)

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Thanks for sharing the Skar woofer info! I had one delivered this week.

For other folks considering this woofer, just wanted to add a few notes from my install last night.

I have an 06 LX470 with ML audio, stock head, stock amp, stock everything. Only two wires at the sub, black and red. I ordered a 4 ohm DVC sub and wired them up in parallel for a 2 ohm setup. Followed kpecks box modification. Installed back in the rig and the sub sounds like poo. Will remove it tonight, wire in series for 8 ohm setup and try again. I'm guessing that will be the ticket.

I figured I'd wire it as 2 ohm since it appears the original Mark Levinson woofer was 2 ohm. But again, the new sub at 2 ohm begins to sound bad at moderate volume. And bumps the original sub box pretty hard! Since I already own the DVC 4 ohm speaker, I'll keep it and try 8 ohm. But I wonder if the DVC 2 ohm speaker, wired at 4 ohms would be the best fit for original system? :meh:

My original sub went out a few years ago. I just unplugged it and ran without a sub since then, which isn't really all that bad. But excited to add this Skar to the mix none the less.

Wiring it up as 8ohms will make it sound like its supposed to. My 06 LC had the 4 wires going back to the sub so it was fairly easy to accomplish. Now if I could just get ride of that daggum buzzing sound thru the speakers when the truck is running!!
 
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Can you guys post some pics of the wiring the sub as 8hms ? I am noob at electrical stuff and need my sub replaced
 
Can you guys post some pics of the wiring the sub as 8hms ? I am noob at electrical stuff and need my sub replaced

Ditto the above comment, what does wiring it at 8 ohms even mean (I don't know, but it's provocative and it get's the people goin'!!!)
 
Ditto the above comment, what does wiring it at 8 ohms even mean (I don't know, but it's provocative and it get's the people goin'!!!)

Its when you wire the voicecoils in either parralell or series which cuts the impedance in half or doubles it. Cant remember which is which right now, just do a quick search on wiring 4 ohm dvc. Dvc being dual voice coils.
 
The sub I installed was a 4 ohm Dual Voice Coil. (Be careful, as you can buy them single, dual, 2 ohm, 4 ohm... many different types.)
I wired mine in series per below to get 8 ohm.

Kicker sub wiring

Quick read about ohms I found helpful.

Crutchfield link


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@parnoren do you remember which unit you purchased? did you just take the sub out of the tube? i would like to try this. thanks
Sorry for late reply. Unfortunately I don't remember which model I got. I sold it a couple of years back as I was going to do something better/built in, but it still hasn't happened. I did not take the sub out of the tube, I used the whole tube with integrated amplifier. A little too big taking up valuable space in the rear. But the sound was great compared to the original setup.
 
@90WT do you get the buzzing sound @kpecks has??
The whining/buzz I get comes through the entire system, not just the sub. Definitely a grounding issue. I have an aftermarket head unit, factory speakers and amp, aftermarket sub.
 
Any pics of the aftermarket head units you guys installing on Post 03 models?
 
Any pics of the aftermarket head units you guys installing on Post 03 models?

My truck did not have the factory navigation setup as it was shipped and sold new in Hawaii.

I like the head unit. Simple to install as there was already an aftermarket installed when i purchased it. It is android-based and works great with a variety of apps. I am still contemplating installing the Phoenix tesla-style screen, perhaps when the new units roll out at the end of the year.

Here is the head unit ATOTO - Amazon

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Just finished the 6.5” skar evl65 dual voice install in 2002 LX. Tried it at 2 ohm 4 ohm and 8 ohm wiring since I couldn’t find definitive info on the amp ohms. Sounds best with the 8 ohm series wiring which is weird since all door speakers seem to sound best under 4 ohm load. Anyway, I cut out the waffle baffling inside the sub enclosure and reused the plastic factory sub spacer that was under the old sub. Fit fine and plenty of room for factory grill. Sounds 1000% better than the old one. Oh and I had 2 speaker leads. Red and black just FYI.
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I installed my skar 6.5 yesterday and this thing hits hard for its size. Now the entire panel vibrates bad and the cup holder on the panel thats shared by the sub buzzes bad. I put sound deadening on all the metal surfaces, now i have to figure out to stop the fold out cup holder from going crazy.
 
I installed my skar 6.5 yesterday and this thing hits hard for its size. Now the entire panel vibrates bad and the cup holder on the panel thats shared by the sub buzzes bad. I put sound deadening on all the metal surfaces, now i have to figure out to stop the fold out cup holder from going crazy.


I sprayed the back of the trim panel with a really quick shot of foam. While I was experimenting with the wiring options I noticed the vibrations. I also added rubber washers behind the sub box mounting screws. I have no rattle from that side. Now, the long storage cover on the other side... I will update that one once I figure it out.
 
Just finished the 6.5” skar evl65 dual voice install in 2002 LX. Tried it at 2 ohm 4 ohm and 8 ohm wiring since I couldn’t find definitive info on the amp ohms. Sounds best with the 8 ohm series wiring which is weird since all door speakers seem to sound best under 4 ohm load. Anyway, I cut out the waffle baffling inside the sub enclosure and reused the plastic factory sub spacer that was under the old sub. Fit fine and plenty of room for factory grill. Sounds 1000% better than the old one. Oh and I had 2 speaker leads. Red and black just FYI. View attachment 2463385View attachment 2463386View attachment 2463387
@HWY14South did the mounting holes match up or did you just attach with new holes? Where should i sound baffle the beast?
 
Holes line up, you need slightly longer screws though. You’ll need to caulk or hot glue some small irregularities in the housing to get a good seal around the new sub driver. I wired mine as a dual voice coil. Curious if the 8 ohm variant would have been a better choice. Sound is way better than stock though. Just look at the drivers themselves, the build quality is night and day.
 
Holes line up, you need slightly longer screws though. You’ll need to caulk or hot glue some small irregularities in the housing to get a good seal around the new sub driver. I wired mine as a dual voice coil. Curious if the 8 ohm variant would have been a better choice. Sound is way better than stock though. Just look at the drivers themselves, the build quality is night and day.

If you run lower impedance you can blow your amp. The speaker will draw too much power and will sound distorted at lower volumes.
 

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