BenCC
Supporting Vendor
I will post update in my thread on design and fabrication of the cover.
How to: Replacing OEM Subwoofer in 3rd Row (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter mtnracer
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I have a 98 which I believe is a slightly different sub setup. I’ll be in fairfax in a week visiting family. Maybe you have some advice for my system? One thing that bugs me about this 100’s is the sound being really hollow. Im Running pioneer head unit pushing 25watts per channel (peak is a touch higher) but it’s running to the stock amp which I think sucks...maybe it’s just not tuned properly. I have kenwood components up front and pioneer in the rear doors. The stock sub is still wired in and running.
In the middle of putting the Kicker (Kicker CompRT 43CWRT672 6-3/4" Dual 2-ohm Component Subwoofer) sub in the factory enclosure and using the factory amp. @abuck99 got me straight on where to trim to get the grille to sit flush (thanks Andrew!)... but I want to make sure I wire this thing correctly, you know, 'cause it's so easy to access this sub once it's all buttoned up.
One of the (many) ways I wired it had the speaker jumping like a sub in a Run DMC video - at only 1/3 volume. I'm thinking (guessing) that's because the sub wasn't sealed in the enclosure?
The Kicker has 4 connections. The factory enclosure/amp has 4 wires. For a guy who is ohms impeded, that's too many options.
What is the correct way to connect these four wires to make this thing knock the windows out (or sound sorta like it did before):
Thanks!
One of the (many) ways I wired it had the speaker jumping like a sub in a Run DMC video - at only 1/3 volume. I'm thinking (guessing) that's because the sub wasn't sealed in the enclosure?
The Kicker has 4 connections. The factory enclosure/amp has 4 wires. For a guy who is ohms impeded, that's too many options.
What is the correct way to connect these four wires to make this thing knock the windows out (or sound sorta like it did before):
Thanks!
In the middle of putting the Kicker (Kicker CompRT 43CWRT672 6-3/4" Dual 2-ohm Component Subwoofer) sub in the factory enclosure and using the factory amp. @abuck99 got me straight on where to trim to get the grille to sit flush (thanks Andrew!)... but I want to make sure I wire this thing correctly, you know, 'cause it's so easy to access this sub once it's all buttoned up.
One of the (many) ways I wired it had the speaker jumping like a sub in a Run DMC video - at only 1/3 volume. I'm thinking (guessing) that's because the sub wasn't sealed in the enclosure?
The Kicker has 4 connections. The factory enclosure/amp has 4 wires. For a guy who is ohms impeded, that's too many options.
What is the correct way to connect these four wires to make this thing knock the windows out (or sound sorta like it did before):
View attachment 2208386
Thanks!
How to: Replacing OEM Subwoofer in 3rd Row
FWIW, I did the Pyle 6" sub install last weekend. It might fit without trimming in the LX, but in my '04 LC it required trimming. The sub has to sit flush in the housing; if there is a gap between the frame and enclosure then you have the same issue as having the foam blown out - air is...
forum.ih8mud.com
You can see page 9 I did the same thing with mine (2006 LC). I only used two connectors and taped the other two off. I used multimeter to figure positive and negative. I also had the kicker speaker with four connections so I changed it to 4ohm following what Muse said on page 10.
I did this three years ago so it's a bit fuzzy now. Let some of these audiophiles respond. Musechacer knows a good bit.
How to: Replacing OEM Subwoofer in 3rd Row
FWIW, I did the Pyle 6" sub install last weekend. It might fit without trimming in the LX, but in my '04 LC it required trimming. The sub has to sit flush in the housing; if there is a gap between the frame and enclosure then you have the same issue as having the foam blown out - air is...
You can see page 9 I did the same thing with mine (2006 LC). I only used two connectors and taped the other two off. I used multimeter to figure positive and negative. I also had the kicker speaker with four connections so I changed it to 4ohm following what Muse said on page 10.
I did this three years ago so it's a bit fuzzy now. Let some of these audiophiles respond. Musechacer knows a good bit.
View attachment 2208413
Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams: Matching your sub to your amp
Connecting subs to your amp is tricky. These subwoofer wiring diagrams will surely help you in setting up the right match for you.
Thanks @WickedPickle - I'll give that a shot.
I assumed you have a new amp powering that sub.
No. Using the stock amp
Might want to wait for others to chime in.
@jerryb helped me install my stereo. I don’t want to give you bad advise and cause and issue with the stock amp. You’re not far from me and we might become friends someday.
Literally LOL'ed. You're off the hook.
I'll start jamming wires in speaker holes and stop when it sounds like the O.E. sub did.
My sub was farting, clipping, and being pissy likely due to foam deterioration. I did not like the idea of refoam repairing the existing sub or replacing it with a $14 PYLE. The side panel looked like a royal pain to remove with my drawer system installed so I went with an exterior powered JL Audio ACP108:
www.jlaudio.com
The installer added a bass modulation dial for quick adjustment so I do not have to go into the equalizer. The installer also disconnected the stock sub and drilled the box directly into and right over the existing sub. The sound is better than stock and overkill if I get a little rowdy.
ACP108LG-W3v3
Amplified Subwoofer System with Single 8W3v3-0.40 Subwoofer Driver, Built-In 250W Class D Amplifier, Black Carpet - Ported Enclosure
With MicroSub+™ systems, the power is built right into the subwoofer system. Housing a proprietary Class D amplifier, this incredible subwoofer system utilizes...
www.jlaudio.com
The installer added a bass modulation dial for quick adjustment so I do not have to go into the equalizer. The installer also disconnected the stock sub and drilled the box directly into and right over the existing sub. The sound is better than stock and overkill if I get a little rowdy.
2004 LX here. I have a NIB dual 4ohm voice coil bazooka tube I bought for another project that I've thought about mounting in the back corner by the factory jack. I'm not sure the factory amp would push it though, even if I wire it from a dual 4ohm to a single 2ohm final independence. Anyone done something similar using the factory amp? or should I wire a small aftermarket amp and use the factory amp wires as the input?
Amazon product ASIN B0007WQ7KI
I had to look up a video to make sure I was remembering stereo wiring properly.
Amazon product ASIN B0007WQ7KI
I had to look up a video to make sure I was remembering stereo wiring properly.
Last edited:
If you're looking to use the factory amp, you'll want to wire the voice coils in series (VC1- to VC2+) in order to present a ~8Ω load to the factory amp, similar to the original 7.5Ω sub. While nobody who's tested lower impedances on the factory amp has posted their results to this thread, I can tell you a 2Ω load is not likely to go well.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Another aftermarket option which also offers quick disconnects AND easy removal of the sub itself, just leaving the mounting bracket when you need the space: Infinity BassLink DC 10" powered sub. Just tap into the stock sub wiring, run your power and ground wires, and voila. Much much better than stock sub, and solid enough to complement a complete stereo upgrade (unless you are a basshead).
I just replaced the factory sub in my 2006 with a Skar 6.5" dual 4 ohm that seems to be a good match for the factory amp, that required very little modification to the enclosure. The holes lined up with the factory holes (I needed longer screws), the only mod to the enclosure was removing ribbing in the inside back where the magnet was touching, and there's a little rectangle of foam on the panel right above the grill that needs to have some of it ripped off, or the panel would bulge slightly. on my rig green and yellow were positive, I used both sets of wires. the 5 little gaps around the new sub needed to be sealed for it to sound right. of course this was much easier with the disassembly instructions from the OP.
link to the sub I used (I used the 4 ohm) EVL-65 | 6.5" 400 Watt Max Power Car Subwoofer
and yeah I know i installed the sub upside down. At least I can't see it.
link to the sub I used (I used the 4 ohm) EVL-65 | 6.5" 400 Watt Max Power Car Subwoofer
and yeah I know i installed the sub upside down. At least I can't see it.
Last edited:
I think it sounds good- I've had it installed for a couple of weeks and haven't noticed any issues.
I don't know who needs to hear this but you can put a JL Audio, 6" W3 in the stock location with a spacer, best run off an external amp though. This subwoofer rocks pretty hard for a 6", it surprised me. My last install before I inherited this 100 Series LC was a BMW 328is, with a IDQ 15" in an infinite baffle install, so I have some points of reference.
I was just checking the additional clearance of that driver over the Skar driver. Looks like you need an additional 3/4" or so.
Yeah I think I stacked a couple of pieces of 1/2" MDF for the spacer to make it work. Amazing what it can do in that tiny box though.
