For 03+ ML yes. Earlier models may be different.
How to: Replacing OEM Subwoofer in 3rd Row (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mtnracer
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Yup. I ran my 4 ohm dual coil in parallel which gave it a 2 ohm draw and it farted big time. Then w/ a standard wiring (4 ohm). Better but still farts then in wired series using one set of +\- as send receive and the other set as a + to minus bridge which made it an 8 ohm draw. This was best in my 2002 LX. O clue in other models what the amp will send.
@Madadder I added rubber washers then mounted with 1 1/2 inch screws. Sprayed foam on the back of the speaker enclosure and on the back or the trim piece except for the back of the speaker grill cover. That cut down A LOT of rattle.
Driver comparison
Also, while much deeper, cutting out the waffle baffle inside the enclosure gave me clearance. I only had a very small gap behind the sub on one side. I also cut out a small section on each side of the hole where the sub mounted to make some clearance for the two sets of inputs to slip in. I filled with silicone and have no detectable leaks
Also, while much deeper, cutting out the waffle baffle inside the enclosure gave me clearance. I only had a very small gap behind the sub on one side. I also cut out a small section on each side of the hole where the sub mounted to make some clearance for the two sets of inputs to slip in. I filled with silicone and have no detectable leaks
Its easy look at post #246 wire it in series. Make sure you purchased the dual 4 ohm and not the dual 2 ohm. Clearance the waffle pattern inside the box and its plug and play. The little sub hits so hard I'm chasing down rattles and vibrations. Im going to be getting rubber washers that @HWY14South mentioned.
Super easy. You have two positive and two negatives on each side. There is a bar linking one side to the other. So a total of 8 connections. 4 positive and 4 negative. Run a wire on one side from the inside positive to the inside negative (the connections closest to each other). Then on the other side run the positive from the amp to the outside positive and the negative from the amp to the outside negative (the connections furthest apart on that side) This gives you a series wiring which makes the amp see 8 ohms of resistance. This seems to be what the amp is sending on my truck and apparently on others as well.
@HWY14South what kind of foam do I get? I got the speaker today that thing is heavy!
I used spray foam. “great stuff” or equivalent. I sprayed really light with quick streaks, let it set up then cut it back with a coping saw it n the thicker spots. You can push the speaker enclosure against the sidewall and the foam will tell you where the high spots are
does it rattle because the enclosure is loose or something?
Mine rattled somewhere behind the enclosure. Not sure if it was bc the waffle baffling was removed which made the enclosure weaker or what. But I am certain I heard a rattle behind the enclosure. After spray foam the rattle subsided.
Ok I getcha. That plastic is kinda weak for a box. Mb if there’s space cram a towel or piece of foam behind the box?
I doubt there will be room. It’s pretty tight. I may have had 1/4” of foam in most spots. My main thought was I want the box in contact with the sheet metal so the foam acted as the filler between the two surfaces
Just read all 14 pages of this - someone help a brother out:
Refoamed the ML sub on my ‘05 LX. I believe a coil is blown, as I still get a weird metallic sound on certain bass freqs. I’m planning to disconnect the ML sub and use those to power a Bazooka 8” - 8 ohm dvc sub, non-powered. I’ve read this really shows off what power the sub does receive from the factory amp, and that it sounds pretty damn good even for a pristine factory sub replacement.
My question is how to hookup the new sub, as I believe it has 4 terminals. How would I wire that with the existing ‘05 wires to the 4 terminals on the 8 ohm Bazooka dvc?
Any input appreciated!
Refoamed the ML sub on my ‘05 LX. I believe a coil is blown, as I still get a weird metallic sound on certain bass freqs. I’m planning to disconnect the ML sub and use those to power a Bazooka 8” - 8 ohm dvc sub, non-powered. I’ve read this really shows off what power the sub does receive from the factory amp, and that it sounds pretty damn good even for a pristine factory sub replacement.
My question is how to hookup the new sub, as I believe it has 4 terminals. How would I wire that with the existing ‘05 wires to the 4 terminals on the 8 ohm Bazooka dvc?
Any input appreciated!
My 05 has only 2 wires black and red.
I’m not 1000% sure but I believe that you only need to wire one set. The reason most speakers now come with 2 sets is so that you can wire them in series or parallel if needed. But if you have an 8 ohm speaker and the amp sends an 8 ohm load you should be able to just run a negative from the amp to either negative and a positive from the amp to either positive. Most likely the two sets on the speaker are connected by a joining bar. Let us know how it goes.
Very helpful - I have not purchased a car sub since college, so I did not realize they came with 2 sets so readily these days. Thank you!
Great thread. I need to replace my blown sub. Thanks to info on here I ordered the Skar one (side note: it shipped within one hour after ordering on a Saturday). My stupid noob question is do I need a soldering iron for this little project?
No.
I just did this weekend and wired it in the 8 ohm configuration. I had a refoamed ML sub before in my 2002 LX and it was great until the voice coil blew, and this new SKAR sub is a great replacement! It hits really hard. You do not need a soldering iron, you only need one wire and four female spade connecters to wire the sub to the existing wires and to wire in the 8ohm configuration. Remember to wire to the opposite sides and not the same side when wiring in a series like I did. I used a dremel to cut away inside the sub box to fit the SKAR and then reused the spacer from the ML sub to avoid using silicone. It sealed up great. Below is a quick diagram of how I reinstalled using foam tape in between the spacer and the sub and there are no leaks.
Thanks for this!
